JMortensen

Schneider springs will handle over .600 lift I think. You should be fine there. Here is the detail on the seals: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=90825

You can bet I'm going to bookmark this thead and use it to prove my point about the tiny stage 2 and 3! I'd look for something in the .500/300 range. Also run your timing somewhere between 15-20 degrees at idle and that should be about right. Realize that you'll need to swap springs and seals in order to allow the cam to lift any more than your current cam does.

Do not do a prop valve for the front. That is a very bad idea. Sounds to me like the reaction disk is missing.

Black widow on your stomach is pretty scary for sure. You all know where guys used to get bit right? I'll give you a hint: black widow bites were a much bigger problem back in the days of OUTHOUSES. You know what freaks me out more than big spiders? Big spider paralyzing and parasitic reproducing larval wasps like this sucker: http://www.desertusa.com/mag01/sep/papr/thawk.html When I was living in CA I actually SHOT one of these things with a .22. They're that big. Another time I fended one off with a tennis racket. I would have freaked even more had I known about the pain of the sting.

I was just making a list for myself, so this is timely: Done: gutted interior built rotisserie and mounts Stitch welded chassis Bad Dog subframe connectors Relocate and strengthen TC rod pivots New 4 point roll bar (well, 95% done) New seat bracket for Ultra-Shield seat 4.11 gears and shimmed Nissan LSD New front diff mount Rust repair - new doglegs, fixed cowl rust, drip rail rust Shaved drip rails sectioned struts New wheel bearings 280z stub axle upgrade CV upgrade fabbed rear toe adjuster mechanism notched rear frame rail for control arm clearance Reinforced front sway bar mount point Strengthened strut tower bar In progress: swaybar mods mod rear control arms for monoballs To do: flares dual master cylinder setup fuel cell install wilwood brake setup plumb brakes and fuel cell make new TC rods to fit new mount make bumpsteer adjustable outer tie rod modify carb linkage install gutted doors new rear panel/tail lights new airdam rebuild 5 speed wire car new headgasket prep for paint paint reassemble the whole freakin car Considering: going to a full cage more chassis structure and bracing more headwork/porting Then when this motor eventually pops (and I realize this will require years of thrashing that won't happen until I actually get the damn thing driving): LS1 swap So yeah, it ain't getting done any time soon

Cool semi-auto .22 trick. Have the aimer rest the gun against something so that the gun is really steady. I used a post at the range to lean up against. Have the trigger man stand next to the aimer (preferrably on the left) and put his index finger in the trigger guard. Move index finger rapidly... Works great. We were aiming at a silhouette about 100 yards away. Bang-bang-bang-bang-bang.... dink-dink-dink-dink-dink. Tons o fun until you hear over the loudspeaker "NO RAPID FIRE!"

As previously stated, I will no longer consider U-haul unless they were the ONLY game in town. In fact, I'd drive to another town to avoid using U-haul. They screwed me over enough times that I now know better. Used Ryder last time I had to rent a truck and that thing was BRAND NEW. It was a big 24' turbo diesel, and it ran fantastic. Compare that to the last 24' U haul I rented that was a 60's vintage POS that got 5 mpg and the diff was about to fall out of it, not to mention the complimentary gay porn they provided (seriously). I was friggin pissed. Never again with the U-haul bastards!!!

I actually continued the gas price discussion with Norm via PMs and we had a pretty good conversation on the subject that wrapped up just before he got banned. I think it is a loss for all of us that we can't have these types of conversations here. The people of Hybrid Z are of a different sort. Much more of a do-it-yourself and function over form attitude here, which is why I enjoy it so much. It would be great to get this same group of people into a political forum, but that's not likely to happen. It's too bad about his sour grapes attitude though. I don't agree with the Hybrid Z policy, but I'm not about to try and get myself banned over it. WAAAAYYY too much good info here...

I thought stock L24 redline was 7000...

Oh, well if you have it installed and running than someone else must have changed the pinion flange. The pinion flange, is... the uhh... flange that attaches to the pinion. It's the part that the driveshaft bolts to, and the one from the 300ZXT doesn't bolt up to the 240 driveshaft, so you have to use one from a 280 with an R200. The driveshaft length has to do with the forward placement of the 70 and 71 differential. The diff was positioned about an inch forward, and the driveshaft needed to be shorter to compensate. If you've moved your diff back or installed an R200, then you want to use the longer driveshaft so that you have more of the splines contacting on the output shaft of the transmission. Your last post is weird though. You really shouldn't have been able to get the finned cover inside the curved transverse link, even if you shaved most of the fins off. It makes me think that you might have redrilled your old mustache bar to fit the R200 on. If that is the case, then if you get the later 280Z mustache bar then you can install the longer driveshaft. If you're running CVs in the back then I'd leave it the way it is. If you're running halfshafts, then I'd move the diff back to correct the U joint angles back there.

That L24 you're quoting was running 15 or 16:1 compression, and hp it was measured at the flywheel, not the wheels. Seeing as how we've seen that you can get a L31 to run close to 300 whp, I think exceeding the 350 bhp with the L31 wouldn't be such a difficult task. Again, agreement with Dan. I pinched myself, and I am indeed awake... FWIW I don't think that 1.75:1 r/s ratio is necessarily the perfect "ideal" either. I think that really depends on the RPMs you want to run. I know that NASCAR engines run 2:1, I'd like to find out what other types of racing engines run too.

The trick is to determine what the LIMITING factor is. If it isn't the stroke, then don't bother destroking. In this case it isn't the stroke, so destroking just costs hp.

So you're going to take mass off the crank and add the heavier rods from the LD? I'm in agreement with Dan, this is not a good idea. More displacement = more power, and unless you're willing to sacrifice power for less vibration, I'd build the biggest displacement L series you can afford to build.

Yeah, you'd need to swap out the pinion flange on the R200 to something from a 280Z. Then when you install the R200 that will move the diff back because the mustache bar has a different bend to it. At that point you want to swap to the longer driveshaft. I can't remember if the front diff mount is the same in that case or not, but that would be the only other thing you'd need to change.

I'd pop the rocker off and pull the whole adjuster out of the head and work on it in a vise.

No, the pistons will be down in the bore a couple mm. The AZC type pistons would work, they use L28 crank and L24 rods and a custom piston with a I think a 3mm higher than stock pin height. Or you could give the specs to Summit Racing and they could order you up some Ross pistons.

No, you just use the nut that Tokico supplies with the bushing that GC supplies and you're in business.

Had a look at the CA trapdoor model, they must be related. Yours definitely looks like a transplant from the left coast, really looks exactly the same. http://mamba.bio.uci.edu/~pjbryant/biodiv/spiders/Bothriocyrtum%20californicum.htm

I was just watching a show on Australian Funnel Web Spiders. Have a look: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:Victorian_funnelweb02.jpg

There you go! So you don't need low end. You need top end, and lots of it.

If you want power out of corners you can either get some really low diff gears so that the rpms stay higher or use different carburetors. That's my take on it. I'm sure you can find someone to tell you that the stage 3 is perfect if that's what you're looking for, but I think it's way too small. When the lift gets over about .470 the coil springs bind. You need to replace the springs to prevent this. Right about at the same amount of lift the valve spring retainers hits the valve stem seal. There was a thread about that by speeder where he found a new stem seal that will allow lifts over .600 I think.

The Mikunis make top end power. The tiny stage 2 and stage 3 don't make power high enough in the RPM range to fully utilize the Mikunis. I have something roughly equivalent to the Stage 4 and it is still too small IMO. I happen to have an L28/E31 and 44's, so my engine might be a pretty good example for you. It pings on pump gas (our 92 is equivalent to your 95 octane I believe) and mine requires 95 octane in the RON+MON/2 formula. I'd suggest you go BIGGER on the cam than stage 2 or 3. You will have those other issues to deal with of the coil bind and the valve stem seals.

I was at a hands on gun show in CA probably around 1990 and the Glock was still pretty new at the time. They had a demo that went all day, and they put 10,000 rounds through a Glock a matter of maybe 5 or 6 hours. They had several shooters and had preloaded clips, and they would basically slap in a clip, point it at the dirt mound backstop, and pull the trigger as fast as they could. When one guy would get tired they'd hand it off to another and keep going. Then at the very end of the day they shot a decent group with it. I was pretty impressed with it. Gotta wonder which gun actually got hotter, although I suspect the full auto.

Back in the day the CP guys would open up their carbs, basically port inside of the carbs out. There was a post either here or on classiczcars a while back where a guy had some. I didn't believe him at first, but he really did have a set. I can't remember how big his were ported out, but I think it was over 50mm. IIRC the outside of a 44 Mikuni is 48mm. So yeah it can help flow which is why it was done in the first place, but I don't think its going to help intake temps. If you're worried about temps add a cold air box. I did know a guy who instead of buying bigger venturis would polish the ones he had with jeweler's rouge. He claimed that this would improve the flow. Then if that wasn't enough then he go get the next larger size venturi. Again, a flow thing not an intake temp thing.

Do a search. There was a VERY successful 4bbl draw through turbo setup (like 500+ hp). I'd suggest you go that way and forget the blow through. Search for "Bob H" and "Bob Hanvey". He bought a car with that setup that had huge IMSA flares. I think he was going to swap out the motor for an RB though.