JMortensen

The Audis were running one two last time I checked at about noon. Didn't sound diesel!!!

THAT'S what I wanted to hear! Yeah, the more I look at it the more I think it's going to be strong enough as is.

That's so friggin awesome! Nothing better than the feeling you get when the woman understands and appreciates your other passion. Sounds like you found the right one.

Maybe this will help. Got out there yesterday and used my cheesy HF band saw to cut the tube into the TC brackets. MAN, THEY CAME OUT BITCHIN!!! I'm really impressed! I tightened up the spring on the saw so it would cut slowly, and it did. It took about 45 minutes to cut through this tube. Granted, it was cutting it the long way. Also had to clamp the piece in, because the angle I was working at was beyond what the band saw was set up for. I had cut some other pieces with this saw and the cuts weren't straight at all. Maybe it was the size of the piece, or the reduced spring pressure, but the cut is straight as an arrow. Anyway, very happy with how the pieces came out. Got the slot cut on one of them, but my 5/8" drill bit gave out after 5 holes so I need to go get a new bit to finish the other side. There's only about 3/16" around the front bottom edge of the hole, but I'm kinda thinking that isn't going to be a problem. I could redo the brackets and give a longer flat surface on the bottom so that the hole would be farther away if necessary. Pics of the slotted bracket: This is what the parts look like just kinda stacked on each other roughly in place. I still haven't trimmed the forward end of the pedestal thingy. Gonna need to take a couple inches off the end.

Nice job fixing it. Gotta wonder if its worth all the hassle though. The ZX distributor only gives 17 degrees advance, so you can lock it down so that it can't move at all and run 18 degrees or so at idle. That gives your low speed advance for gas mileage and has more total advance, which the stock distributor at the stock timing setting is lacking. It just seems like a lot of effort for very little gain. I've just been JB Welding the stator holder piece to the breaker plate instead.

Even if you get the diaphragm, you can assume that the vac advance mechanism is toast on the ZX distributor.

Read the whole thread. Yarn goes INTO the hole, not OUT of the hole. Popping the hood increases pressure under the car. As to the vortex generators, I'd assume that having the air flow stuck to the hatch would make the spoiler more effective, so for those running a spoiler maybe the vortex generators would improve downforce gained.

Sheesh! That's why you don't want a slider? I'm not too worried, but I'll be sure to tell my wife not to jam my nuts into the submarine belt...

Think I got it all figgered out. I think I'm going with the pedestal idea. I measured, and the actual width of the frame rail right above the TC rod bucket is 2.5" across, the frame rail narrows right there so that there is more clearance for the TC rod to swing. The lip there is .5" so basically the frame part is 2" with a .5" piece of sheet metal sticking out the side. You can see how it narrows in this picture: I have a whole bunch of this 1x1x.063 tubing, so I had this idea: why not contour the tubing to fit the curve of the frame rail, and weld 2 sections right next to each other. I can already hear John, "that's using almost twice as much material as necessary. True, but it's easy and it only weighs maybe 1 lb. I cut the shape with a jigsaw, for those interested. So here's my first attempt at it: I think this will provide a solid base to attach the TC bucket to. I'm also considering cutting the flange off of the frame rail so that I can weld the outside tube directly to the vertical part of the frame, instead of just the flat sheet metal flange. Looking for opinions on this course of action good, bad, or otherwise before I proceed.

Fun cars, chip them for a quick 285hp, a bit heavy, very complicated when you end up needing to do things like change the headgasket. That one books out for 24 hours labor! Clutch changes are also a royal PITA as you have to pull the exhaust under the car, the transmission and the torque tube to get at the clutch IIRC. The Turbo S is the one to get I think they were out in 87-89 or so. That model has a bigger turbo, and I think bigger 928 brakes on it. Badass car. Turbo S is the way to go IMO if you can find one. One other thing my boss told me (he had a 944 Turbo S) was that if you put 100 octane gas in them they would keep boosting until the knock sensor kicked in. I don't claim to know exactly how the FI system works, but he made it sound like it wasn't as reliant on a map as other systems.

Yep. My list from memory which is a little fuzzy: CV's $130 for both CV adapters from Ross $215 Wheel bearings ~$140 280 stubs $100 ARP lug studs ~$25 (for the back) So the way I did it you're looking at ~$600. I felt the deal on the CV's was pretty good. Oh, add a tub of grease because I cleaned and repacked the CV's and another $10 for some straps to hold the boots on. Call it $650. But I feel like I won't have to worry about the rear end again for a LONG time. I didn't do Ross's billet pieces because I'm still running a 6 cylinder. Even when I eventually go V8 I figure I should be OK since I am not a drag racer and I don't have a Quaife. I don't think I'll put that severe a shock load on them to warrant the billet stuff.

That's surprising. I know the R35 compound seemed a LOT softer than my Yokohamas, but then again, I always ended up changing out the Yoks because they were heat cycled to death. Looks like I need to try some softer tires!!!

I'm really curious to see what kind of life you get out of those tires. Keep us updated.

Are you talking about sectioning the struts, or adding coilovers, or both? I wouldn't take anyone elses measurements on sectioning the struts. You cut them too short and that's it. If you follow John Coffey's advice, he says to cut the strut tube and section out the stock spring perch. I prefer to section about 2" down, and just grind the stock spring perch off. Either way works, mine is a bit more labor intensive but it puts the section above the spring perch area where it is less critical. John wrote a FAQ on sectioning the strut tubes and another on coilovers if you haven't already seen them.

No, because the chamber is deeper. Download the Lengine utility and it shows you the volume of the chamber. That's the important part, not the shape.

I don't know exactly, but this ought to give you an idea: http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/head.html

Mill the crap out of it and put cam tower shims in. You probably didn't want to hear that answer though...

Dished pistons. Get the Lengine.exe utility and figure it out yourself. That's how I found the compression ratio that I gave you on classiczcars.com when you asked there. It's in the Download section here.

Nevermind here it is: http://album.hybridz.org/data/500/s_pics_093.jpg You just linked to the thumbnail.

How about making it big enough so that we can make out what it is we're looking at!

My LCAs aren't serrated and they've never moved. The serrated plates look cool, but I'm not convinced that they're necessary.

A 5/8" bolt fits in there like it was meant to be, but you still have to keep everything centered. You could cut a keyway in there for the tapered pin if you wanted. Coat the pin or bolt with anti-seize and you won't ever have this problem again. That's the real answer IMO.

CV's are stronger by a good margin.

The N47 is a round exhaust port head. The N42 has square ports. That's the only difference as far as I know.