JMortensen

Read the rules.

Too much car, not enough driver.

The pin height is different. L28 pistons would stick up 3mm over the deck on 240 rods.

Eventually, I'll take that challenge. My car before I stripped it was 2350 with the 5 speed, R200, Autopower bar and full interior with extra sound deadening. I'm stripping it down as part of the current rebuild, then when this motor dies I'm going LS. At the rate I work that will be around 2016, so if you're still around we'll figure this out for sure!!!

John B got his L6 engined autox car down to 1900. I see no reason why a LS 240 shouldn't be able to hit a lower number than Amir.

When was the last time you worked in a dealership John? Sounds like the passage of time has dulled the pain... in your passage.

Man I just don't buy into that "pay your dues" crap. You guys might be able to accept getting F'ed in the A for a few years, but my A is too sensitive for that!!! That's a BIG part of why I don't work on cars for a living anymore, guess I'm just too proud. My suggestion to you Guy is DO NOT let them F you in the A.

Just got out to the garage for the first time in a few weeks yesterday. Did some more work with the subframe connectors, and more today. Ended up drilling 1/4" holes every 3" or so down the sides of the rails, then pulling the floor up with a self tapping sheet metal screw. Drilling in the middle wouldn't have worked due to the floorboards being pretty messed up. Driver's side is ready to weld on, passengers is in much worse shape, so I figured I'd leave that one for last. Hopefully lessons learned on the easy side will translate to the hard side. Here's a pic of the floor pulled up reasonably well under the rail. Also got new front sections for the rails from John @ BD. They look like they're going to work. Basically they're just like the rail on the bottom, but without the flange on one side so that they can be welded to the rail in front. After I get the connectors connected to the floor, then I'm going to mock up the TC area and then I'll try to do the connectors to the TC square tube, and those pieces to the frame rails all at once. Also notice how flat floor sits against the rail here.

With a comp pump I could peg my Autometer pressure gauge when cold. I took out the outer comp spring and now it's not so bad when cold. It won't peg the gauge anymore like it used to. Generally speaking the rule of thumb is 10psi per 1000 rpm. With the one comp spring that's about what I get, but it gets to max pressure by about 3500 rpm IIRC. Scary. It's been so long since I've driven my Z I can't remember...

Like there should be chickens in there! Sorry, couldn't resist. I'm not a fan of the mesh look. I'd close the opening up a bit, then maybe look at wirecloth to protect from rocks...

Get the bigger one, and buy your lash pads from Nissan. $3 each from Nissan Motorsports or Courtesy Nissan, so that will save you $24.

If you go for a lift above .460 then the springs will coil bind, so if you're not wanting to completely redo the head then go with the smaller lift. However, if you just wanted to get the best cam for your triples, the bigger cam would be the right choice. There has been a lot of discussion recently about Schneider cams being soft. I haven't heard that about any other cam manufacturer. Regrinding a cam is a cheap and good option, and keeps the original Nissan metallurgy, which is supposed to be very good.

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=101501 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=100237 Those are a couple good threads on the subject. AK-Z, I think you were correct, I just misunderstood what you meant. The basic jist is that if the control arm points down then there won't be as much body roll. If the control arm points up, side loads on the suspension will compress it.

Pop-That part of the bump steer spacer just centers the strut. The ring on there should be plenty strong. Look at any Z bumpsteer spacer and you'll find the same hole in the center. AK-Z-you're wrong. The spacers change the angle of the lower control arm, and don't do anything to the ride height or the extension or compression of the strut. Search, it's been over with a fine tooth comb.

Search for "roll center" and you should find your answer quickly enough.

When Matman and I were moving all of those Z parts we had a gigantic metal rack for holding Z doors fail in the back of the truck. Luckily, it decided to fail when there were no doors on it. The guy we bought the parts from had a welder and let me use it to weld it back together. He also had some scrap metal under his welding table. I just grabbed a couple pieces to make diagonal braces, and I guess a couple that I grabbed were stainless. Welded right onto the mild steel with his 220V Miller welder. I didn't think you could do that, but it worked fine and the rack held up through the second trip, despite being loaded with parts again. I honestly couldn't tell the difference between welding the mild steel to the mild steel vs the stainless to mild steel. Of course I wasn't going for finesse either. Just slapped them on, didn't even take the paint off of the rack. Anyway, not telling you HOW to do it, just that I was surprised that it could be done.

You can get Illuminas on ebay for $90 each. Look around, find somebody who deals with them, and tell them what you want. They can order them from Tokico if they don't already have them, and it cuts your $600 estimate by 40%.

FWIW I have the Miller cart, and I think it's designed for the 175. My 135 is loose on the cart. I've seen some in the Harbor Freight catalogs that look like they would fit my welder better. It's a mild annoyance, but the Miller cart was 2 to 3 times the cost of the Harbor Freight cart IIRC. Then again, maybe I should just weld one up!

Look up brake ducts on google or something. Quite a few rectangular openings that funnel into a round tube, specifically made for this purpose. Here's a link showing one setup: http://home.comcast.net/~biodan/cooling.html

Out of curiosity Pete, do you happen to know how much mechanical advance the turbo distributor has?

So is it official? Is now the time to Paypal $7 to you?

Well you have a point. Maybe I'm wrong since you're boring the block. Still, seems shadetree to me. Too shadetree.

I have and would reuse pistons on a block, but I don't think you'll find too many people thinking that reusing pistons on a different block is a good idea. Cast pistons are cheap. Just get new ones.

The stock cam is really going to hurt you. Even if you don't put the 280 valves in the head, you should really consider changing the cam. You're looking at say ~$100 for a regrind, and then factor in $50 for lash pads from Nissan Motorsports and that is probably including shipping on the parts. Resurface your rockers with sandpaper if they need it (http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=108404), if not, just run em the way they are. That wouldn't be too hard to do or expensive, and without it the carbs are kinda wasted IMO. It's not hard to do now, but once you have it all back together the reluctance to tear back into it is going to be much harder to overcome. At least it would be for me...