JMortensen

That's a neat option! Looks like you still have enough room to get a ratchet on the fill plug too. Very nice!

I've only heard of people losing lobes on Schneiders. I've never known anyone who lost a lobe on a regrind, which is what all my L4 and L6 engine racer friends run. I don't think any of us has ever had a rocker resurfaced, my rockers have run on 3 different cams without being resurfaced. Silent, my suggestion to you is to get an old stock cam and send it off for a regrind and see if the same thing happens again. I have a suspicion that it won't.

You could disconnect the vacuum line to the booster and drive it down the street, then reconnect and see if there is a difference. Just be aware that you'll have to hit the brakes really hard to stop. Or you could start the car, then turn it off and pump the brakes about 5 times. You should feel the pedal change and get rock hard after about the 4th pump or so.

How about an N42? Same head you have now with square exhaust ports. E88 comes in about 4 variations and has smaller valves, so it won't flow as well without mods. P90 might be OK if you shave the crap out of if. Check the P79 and P90 pages on this site for more details on the P90. http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/z.html

That has not been my experience. Aggressive race pads don't do jack until they get some heat in them IME.

I don't think it is a problem at all with .005 slack in there. If it were .030 or .060 then maybe, because you'd be changing the toe setting pretty significantly then. But that sleeve gets locked in place. Assemble the pin withouth putting on the control arm or the bushings and you'll see what I mean. The pin goes through the strut, the lock pin in the middle holds the spindle pin fore/aft. Then the sleeves slide on the ends, washers, and the nuts. When you tighten the nuts down it clamps the sleeves in place. It would take LOTS of pressure to move the sleeve once the nut is tightened down, so yeah, I think it's simply a non-issue.

Something is F'ed up on your linkage to the SU's or you have a piston stuck open on the SU's or something. Advancing timing WILL NOT cause the engine to go from 800 to 7000 rpm on a normally running engine. This convinces me that the two situations are not related. Figure out what is wrong with the carbs, fix that, turn the idle down if you need to, and set the timing.

Yep, wrong pads seems to be the case. You actually need a LESS aggressive pad, as the more aggressive pad will require more heat before it starts working. Maybe something like a Hawk HPS, or the EBC Green as mentioned before.

I had to sand my pins down a bit to fit the sleeve over them as they were a bit pitted when they came out. I got my ES bushings about a year ago from http://www.suspensions.com, FWIW. But I also don't know that this is a particularly big problem. When you lock then nut down on the end of the spindle pin it captures that sleeve, then the bushing rotates over the sleeve. Once it's all in there and tightened down, the sleeve shouldn't move anyway.

Maybe you should just close the thread Pete. Couldn't agree more, but aren't we getting started down the "wrong" path?

Scottie mentioned BOLT ONS, treefr85 is talking about TimZ's engine, which has a lot more than bolt ons. I think Scottie is right though, 350whp out of the stock L28ET longblock is not hard to do. The main difference that I can see is going to be driveability. If you're pushing the boost to get max hp you're probably going to have a big turbo on there, and as a result you'll be "suffering" from turbo lag. Might not matter in a drag race situation and some people actually like the feeling of the turbo kicking in, but for a daily driver or even more so in an autox or road course car I'll take the NA V8 that makes 400 hp over the L28ET that makes 400 hp anyday. I have never seen a fast turboed Z at an autox. That doesn't mean they don't exist, just that I haven't seen them, and I've seen probably more than 10 of them now both VG30 turbos and L28ETs. What that means to me is that it's hard to make a turbo Z as fast as an NA Z at an autox. If you're comparing boosted to boosted, I'll take the V8 running 5 psi that makes 400 hp vs the L28ET that runs 20 psi to make 400 hp anyday (in terms of driveability). Bigger the turbo, the worse the lag has always been my experience, and I've driven quite a few turboed cars, including some pushing 20 or more psi.

I love the GTO, think it's a freakin awesome car, and think you'd be trading up big time, but maybe you should wait until after you've moved and both have jobs in VA.

There is a graph on the page (scroll up a bit) where they show the effect with and without the wing at 157 mph. Front and rear lift appear to be reduced with the wing up. Doesn't make sense to me. I used to work on Porsches, and my boss flat refused to install a whale tail on any customer's car if they didn't have an air dam too, because the whale tail alone would really make the front end light at speed.

kg/m can be converted to ft/lbs. Here's a utility: http://www.dropbears.com/u/utilities/convert2.htm 80 ft/lbs = 11.064 kg/m

Mine swapped right in. Backlash opened up .0005". Not enough to worry about.

Not a Phantom Grip. Phantom Grip has two separate plates with springs in between that press the plates hard against the side gears. This is just a funky crosspin in an open diff. Pics here: http://www.phantomgrip.com/products.htm. EDIT--weird. You linked to the same page as me. But you can see that the cross pin is one piece. Not two separate blocks like on the PG page...

BD's subframe connectors are 1/8" thick. I've heard that the ZF rails are quite a bit thicker than stock, but stock is THIN, so that may not be saying much. I do believe that the BD stuff is a lot thicker than the ZF, but can't say for sure.

One more thing about shipping. I don't know who you're using, but if its UPS go to an actual UPS location, NOT the UPS Store. The UPS store has about 100% markup on shipping charges. I use FedEx Ground exclusively now. They used to suck (lost packages, incompetent drivers, etc), but they're cheaper than UPS and they've gotten MUCH more reliable in the past few years. You can sign up for a FedEx account online and print your own labels then just drop the packages off at a local drop off location. Don't have to own a business to have an account, no yearly fees or anything like that. It's a good option IMO.

You either need a friend or a camera mount...

Looks like Grumpy has the right idea...

More of a 4x4 or Mopar thing, but sad anyway. For those who don't know Dana makes Jeep and Dodge truck and Mopar axles, Detroit Lockers, LSDs, axles, all kinds of differential stuff, and is the parent company to Spicer who makes U-joints which I'm sure all of you V8 guys are using in your driveshafts. http://news.yahoo.com/s/nm/20060303/bs_nm/autos_dana_dc

Here's another idea you won't like... Obviously you can't do the hole saw bit, because you'd die from the fumes, unlike this Europa. But if you look at the bottom he basically cut most of the panel away leaving a wide hole almost all the way across. As I've always said, if I could strap a dead chicken to the hood and go faster, I'd have a dead chicken strapped to my hood... but to each his own. PS... THAT IS A FAAAAAAST CAR!!!

I was considering cutting most of that rear panel off. Not to show off the fuel cell that I haven't installed yet, but if you look at NASCAR, the front end is on the ground and the rear is opened up.

Again, the yarn test will yield definitive results (and I think I've read peoples' yarn test results previously but can't remember for certain), but my understanding is that you have high pressure in the front of the hood, low pressure in the middle towards the back where Nissan put the vents, and high pressure at the back. Similarly you would have high pressure at the front of the roofline, but low pressure over the roof, and high pressure again if you had a spoiler. If my car were running I'd do the yarn test right now. Unfortunately it's gonna be months if not more before I can test jack at this point...