JMortensen

Here is some info: http://www.maz-sport.com/cusco/lsd.htm#types_rs_mz http://www.jscspeed.com/wrx/wrx_base.html?/wrx/clutch/cusco_lsd.htm It looks like it is available in 1 and 1.5 way versions. I wouldn't get a 1 way. If the person selling it rotated it so that you could see the pin and the housing you could tell what it is. Not sure what diff the Z33's use, but if it is a short nose R200 you should be able to make it work.

I would expect the right kind of steel would be HARD so that the ears didn't tear off. I went through my notes and couldn't find my measurements, then I checked my sent emails, and the one I sent to Gordon Glasgow had them. Here's what I had written down: Spring plates: 4 @ 1.75mm Spring disks: none Friction disk: 2 @ 1.75mm Friction plates: 4 @ 1.65mm Big end washer: 3.25mm Looks like I only counted the end washer ONCE. I really suck at math. If you EVER see a number in a thread of mine that needed to be calculated you're doing yourself a favor to doublecheck it... it's not the theory, it's the simple calculation that I always F up. Anyway, count the washer twice and I get 23.6. So we're right in the same ballpark. If you want to start that now, here are some more calculations you can't trust. I do think that 2 spacers = 6.5mm, and 4 friction disks at 1.85 = 7.4mm. So you have a .9mm difference which equals .03543 in. That means your clutch stack is thicker than you want it. Might be possible to make one thinner clutch out of your own material like you suggested. If you did, I'd make the clutch stack 23.6mm again, and shim it up. You might find that with a higher number of clutches you get more breakaway from the same spring pressure and it doesn't require as much shim. If you do add clutches, ideally you'd like these things stacked plate,disk,plate,disk,plate,disk. I can't remember if you would have any issues running a disk on the inside. I don't think there would be any problems. If you could then I'd run a disk in the center, then a plate, then a disk, then a plate then a disk, then your spring plates on the outside. I wouldn't separate the spring plates to put a disk in between because then you'd have each spring working independently on each side and it would be a bear to close the thing. Also in looking over the whole thread again I see that you never got the side gears out. There is LOTS of surface tension from the oil behind the side gear, but tap it with a hammer and you should be able to get the side gears out. You really want to inspect the surface behind to make sure that there is no galling behind the gear.

That's a nice sentiment and yeah I could take stuff apart and put it back together, but I really couldn't diagnose my way out of a wet paper bag when I got out of high school, troubleshooting contest or not. I still suck at it to be perfectly honest. Just because you're working as a mechanic doesn't mean you should be diagnosing driveability issues. As one of my friends likes to say "I dunno how to spell mokanic, but I are wun."

I would guess that the grooves hold oil so they don't chatter as much. You'd probably have to have the right kind of steel to make your own. I wouldn't be worried at all about running grooved and non-grooved clutches though. You could even sandwich the grooved plates on a non grooved disk and vice versa if you wanted.

Thanks for the lead on the clutches. That's a pretty good deal comparatively, although you can buy a whole set of Eaton carbon fiber clutches for a domestic and they're only like $40. Even so, at $15 a pop you might consider trying to eliminate the washers. If that diff had more clutch disks in it it probably wouldn't have sheared the teeth off. I'm almost sorry I saw that. Makes me want to take mine back apart and add more clutches...

That sounds like normal poly bushing stiction.

OK guys. I think I have a rough game plan. As always bounding ideas off of the hybridz crowd has been very helpful. Going to finish stitching the front frame and all that, then get into this project I think. It doesn't SOUND too hard... we'll see. I'll revive the thread when I have some pics of progress to show.

Cutting the control arm would solve that problem... Nice work Forrest!

Sorry if I'm being dense. Are you saying that the LCA mount and the TC mount should be in the same line relative to the center line of the car? Because that's really the whole reason I'm doing this. This is supposed to be an easy way to get the LCA mount and the TC mount in line front to rear.

I'm stitch welding my chassis right now and I'm making a different roll bar that attaches to the rockers and the strut towers. I'd go with a cage and subframe connectors if its a track car. Stitch welding is a lot of work. LOT of work...

That's a weird setup. Never seen that one before. I did give you the wrong part for my friend's setup though. His masters were INSIDE the car. I realize now that the part I showed has the masters in the engine compartment. It's really more like this one: http://www.pitstopusa.com/detail.aspx?ID=2309

Isn't there a Z specialist in Everett?

If you're talking about something like this: http://www.pitstopusa.com/detail.aspx?ID=2312 then I haven't seen it in a Z, but I have seen it in a 510. My ex-roommate from a while back made a bracket that tied into the stock dash mounting points and located this master setup in his 510. It was really cool, and if for some reason he ever wanted to go back to a more stock setup a stock pedal box and dash would bolt right back in. A little plumbing and it would be back to stock. He even mounted his custom steering column with the bracket. Very cool. Anyway, the only bad part about his setup was the reservoirs for the master kept cracking on his and draining brake fluid on his feet. I think he eventually got the remote master cylinder kit to fix that problem IIRC. I've heard that the cracking sometimes happens because you tighten the clamp on the reservoir too tight. If that's the case, he's probably guilty of that. Any bolt the guy tightened was guaranteed to require a breaker bar to get loose. He's just too damn strong for his own good.

If you should find someplace that does have the clutches cheap, be sure and let the rest of us know...

I don't think there are any other US suppliers, at least I haven't found any. I know the diffs are manufactured by Fuji Heavy Industries, same company that owns Subaru. I also know that http://www.reiderracing.com and http://www.differentials.com sell this same LSD under the name Power Brute. You might try calling one of them and asking if you can get the clutches from them, or try track down someone in Japan who can get them direct from the manufacturer if that is possible. Even if it didn't save you time to buy direct it might save $$$. Good luck! Even at a 6 week wait, you should still be pretty stoked.

But that must be how you are taught to drive, right strokerZ? I don't think I just came across two idiots. I think there is a difference in how merging is done between the US and Canada. Is that right? Otherwise how would you explain the synchronized lane changes???

Great! It's still a hell of a nice find then. All you need to do is get the two clutches and reassemble, maybe shim to your liking if you want.

Looks just like mine. Does it have a thick spacer piece? I can't see that in your pics where you have all the clutches laid out. Sounds like replace the broken clutches and shim to an appropriate level, then you're done. As long as the gears aren't galled it should be fine. Might want to check the ring and pinion for damage too. If the gears and bearings look good then you should be good to go.

IIRC it was in the INTAKE ports. It's been a good 7 or 8 years, but I'm fairly positive. They were NA motors I'm 95% sure. Did a quickie search, the 92 and later motors had ceramic exhaust port liners, I would swear some had the intake coated as well because my boss and I had talked about the ceramic going through. Wouldn't be the first time I was wrong...

Nissan, and they're $35 each IIRC. Any other damage, like maybe to the side gear grooves???

Yeah, it's supposed to be 1/2 tongue in cheek, 1/2 warning to our American members who might travel that way. I mean I narrowly avoided 2 accidents because of this phenomenon, and it really does seem to be consistent. Maybe I could have worded the title differently...

It has the degrees on the damper itself. Not just one notch for TDC, but it has one for 5º ATDC and 4 or 5 at 5º intervals for BTDC. You don't use either of those plates with the degrees on it. You use the pointer (just a pointer) from the 240.

So far I like these in this order: "While I'm at it" "Does THIS void my warranty?" "Making what should have been a reality" As for my own contribution I'll have to add "Stock is only fast enough if you haven't driven a hybrid yet" "You don't want to know" "Think, Build, Drive" Or the take off from the Nissan slogan: "Shift_a couple hundred hp"

OK, maybe these pics will help. The clevis was cut off of the rear strut towers. My old strut tower bar setup used these clevises, but John and Drax convinced me to weld a solid bar in there. Thanks for that guys. So here's the idea. Build basically a triangular extension off of the frame, then put the bolt down vertically through it so that it sticks out the bottom. Use spacers to set the height of the rod end, and a nut on the end to hold it all together. That is a 1/2" bolt and the actual bolt would be 5/8", but that was the only one I had to use for the model. This is kind of similar to the BMW front LCA mount that John showed in another thread which had a stud sticking directly down out of a frame rail, or for a Z comparison it might be sort of like the Mustache bar bolts which stick straight down through the frame. Only on the end of this bolt would be a series of spacers (bumpsteer spacers is what I was going to use) which I could reposition as needed to move the pivot up or down. I was going to do it in single shear, with the bolt supported along several braces within the frame rail, and the end of the bolt sticking down to accept the rod end. My frame rail on the passenger side is really beat up behind the TC bucket. I think the PO must have done some off roading or run over a curb or something. I know that the car is still straight because I never had any thrust angle alignment issues on the car, but I'd like to cut that crappy section in red in the last pic completely off the frame rail if I can. The original idea was to use 2 clevises and weld them one on top of the other to the side of the frame rail, but they are obviously too tall. You can see that if I were to use the clevis the TC pivot would be further inboard of the stock pivot location. I was going to make a triangular frame extension there and then drill the hole in the correct location, which locates the center of the pivot bolt .625" inside the frame rail. The more I think about it the more I'm questioning John's idea that the A to B junction NEEDS to be at 90º. Seems like the rod end I'm using on the LCA pivot can still move straight regardless of the angle that exists there. In fact that was why I went to the rod end in the first place. When I added a bunch of caster the LCA bushing was REALLY tweaked, and the rod end got rid of the stiction there. If I'm missing something and it was preferable to have the LCA at 90º from the frame rail I could always change the spacers on either side of the rod end to square it up, but I really don't think that this is an issue at all (although it would be a BIG issue if you're using bushings which can't handle the misalignment). Also had another thought relating to 74's idea. I could weld a piece of square tubing to the bottom of the frame rail as he did, then drill a hole through it and have my bolt in double shear, and space it up and down as in Cary's picture. Kind of a combo of 74's idea and Cary's. I just don't like that it would be supported at the top on the one side of the box only. My idea gives more structure to the area that supports the bolt I think. Cary, I don't think I'll use your idea as pictured on my car for a couple reasons. One, getting the original TC rod box off the frame rail is a goal, if it can be done. Two, your design would move the pivot further inboard of the frame rail, which would mean that I'd need to move the LCA pivot inboard to match. That's not a bad idea at all, but it would mean that I'd have to redo my LCA's again because their length is close to maxed out as it is. I know it would be technically a better solution to lengthen the TC and the LCA, but I've got enough crap on my plate for now...