JMortensen

Cary (tube80z) has mentioned this before. I always assumed it was more of a bushing deflection than anything else, but poly shouldn't deflect too much. You could eliminate the bushings entirely and run monoballs and see what difference that makes, or you could stitch weld the control arms to make them a bit stiffer if you think that's what is deflecting. Then there are aftermarket control arms from MM and AZC if you find that it is the control arm itself. Could also be the strut housing itself twisting. Don't know how you'd address that...

I had a friend with an L28ET 510. He had the firewall moved back about 6" IIRC. There is also a guy on hybridz with a Supra engine in his 510 wagon too. Any engine install can be done if you're willing to cut and weld enough.

I don't know much about the Weber carbs, but that cam seems small for the rest of the engine. If what Doug says is true, sounds like you have chokes for a big cam with a small cam. I say get a bigger cam, but I'd probably say that even if you only had 8.5:1 compression.

The elimination of sulphur has to do with emissions IIRC. I'm not a chemist, but that's what I remember reading somewhere.

They replayed the runoffs over the course of a month on the weekends at night. Just saw the EP race maybe 3 weeks or a month ago.

Hmm... in reading Terry's response it appears I read the question wrong. It was about relocating the control arm pivot and not the TC rod pivot. Oops... In addition to what Terry states I think that if the TC rod points up from the pivot to the control arm there is also more dive under braking, just as there is more roll when the LCA points up from its pivot to the wheel. So moving the LCA pivot up and not the TC rod pivot also has an effect on nose dive.

Don't need to, just let the torque converters make up the difference.

Took all my measurements and cut the right side off... probably do the left tomorrow. Not so bad all in all. They really welded the crap out of the TC bucket. That sploogy looking weld on the side penetrates about 3/8". Had to grind most of that off.

So far the cutoff wheel is proving the easiest. The burr is the fastest by a good margin, but a bit wild. I'm doing the crappy passenger side first, but I can already see that the floor is pretty F'ed up. Not sure if I'll be able to beat it flat of if I'm going to be buying floorpans too. Just what I need... ANOTHER project...

Gotta be careful on the Euro octane measurement. They do it differently than we do here. We are RON + MON / 2, I believe they are just RON or just MON. So when they say they have 95 octane gas it isn't the same as our 95 octane. Its more like 92. Here: http://www.btinternet.com/~madmole/Reference/RONMONPON.html

We were talking about this very thing on another thread here: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=106522. Yes, the end result is that the LCA and TC become a "semi-leading" arm (is that a real term???). Any time that you put thrust on the front of the suspension, as in braking, the tendency will be for the front end to compress. Whether that is a good thing or a bad thing depends on your setup, but that is the effect I am trying to reduce, as my car nose dives hard under braking.

If you need to do a lot of welding, I wouldn't. If you only have small welding projects that are going to need doing later on, then go for it. My friend just called me and said he had loaned his mig to his brother and it took him FOREVER to weld up his exhaust with his new tig.

Can you clean the surfaces on the side gear and the pressure ring up with some Scotch Brite or something like that? The pitting sounds pretty minor from your description. You might be able to buy the pressure ring and side gear from Nissan if it is worse than it sounds, but seeing as how we figured out that they aren't all the same during the course of this thread that might be a little risky. Might get the wrong parts... You might be able to run the spacer on one side only, but I can see two potential issues. You'd want to run disks on both sides, so the side gears would be shifted in the case 1.625mm to one side. I don't think this would be a problem as long as the CVs or stub shafts can click in with the circlip, and they didn't drag on the side seals. The other problem is that the back end of the side gear might hit the case, as BJ's was designed to do. If that happened on ours there is no thrust washer or machined surface there, so that might not be too good. We don't know the difference in the size of the gears. Maybe his is longer to set against the case. Then again... As far as the functioning of the LSD unit goes it wouldn't lock up the left wheel more than the right or anything funky like that. You want the same number and size clutches on both sides, but any shims or spacers you put in will just shift the whole middle assy with the side gears, pressure rings, pinions and cross pin over to one side, but won't affect the way they function. I shimmed mine all on one side, but that was only .020" shim, so not quite the same as what you're talking about. I'd make 4 disks and completely get rid of the spacers. The safe, sure fire way to use the spacers would be to use one on each side.

That's the answer to the stroker L series IMO. Taller block, longer rods, better rod ratio. Very nice!

You know the more I look at it, the more I think the guy just set it there on the frame rail to get it in the picture...

OMFG isn't that the truth?!! I can't stand "reality" TV, and when it came to SPEED I almost had an aneurysm. Unique Whips and Pinks are so bad that just catching a 2 second bit of the commercial for either as I'm flipping by SPEED makes me vomit in my mouth. I do watch the Two Guys Garage show and I realize that every show is an infomercial, but at least there isn't any manufactured feuding going on between the guys on the show, and at least they dyno their **** before and after to "prove" the mod that they're doing. They actually had a pretty good one about supercharging the GM 5.3L the other day. Made 400 whp afterwards, I was impressed.

The stock FI with the flapper door AFM is not very good for performance. We have a guy here named z-ya who has built a 10.5:1 compression engine with flat tops and an N47 head. Running the stock FI and stock cam he was able to put down 165 whp. I have read here and elsewhere that the stock FI can't adapt to a much larger than stock cam (I think I've read that the 490/290 is too large for the stock FI--correct me if I'm wrong), and that your engine is going to need a larger cam if you bump the compression that high. Even if you don't the stock L series is way undercammed, so a bigger cam would be a good idea regardless of whether you bump the compression up. If you were to run MSnS or some other aftermarket FI system you could work around the flapper door and the cam limitations, and then you might be able to make some real power. The stock FI is a huge limitation, so if you can get rid of it you'll really make it easier on yourself. Keep the manifold if you want it to look stock, but get rid of the ECU and the flapper door AFM and you'll be way ahead of the game. Kinda sounds like this is your game plan anyway...

Your tubing is WAY thicker than it needs to be. 1/8" wall tube is thicker than necessary. Also 2 1/4" tall frame rails with the rail inside on top of the floor sounds like they'd be in the way of your feet. You might want to start by searching for subframe connectors. Lots of people have done them with 1x3 tube, and lots have used 2x3 tube. The ones that use the 2x3 usually cut through the floor and have some of the tube inside the car so that it doesn't hang so low. Search for pparaska, then click on his link to his website. That has a LOT of good info about subframe connectors. The "thrust arm" is a TC rod (tension/compression). I have a thread from maybe 2 weeks ago outlining my plan to modify the TC rod box. You might do the same for a full on racecar, or if you're not going that crazy you could just cut the box off then weld it back on when you're done with the frame rails, or make a new box as some in that thread have done (74_5.0_Z has some pics of his setup that might help). Good luck with your project. Use the search function. Lots of good info on subframes and suspension stuff here.

Welcome. Just about any trans/clutch/engine combo you can think of has been done and documented here. I found this info by searching for "l28 l24 clutch". Don't have to read too far to find your answer. http://forums.hybridz.org/search.php?searchid=301814

It has a RF tire warmer. That's not legal, is it???

That is an interesting idea. I have that burr as well. Might have to give that a try too and see if the cutoff wheel or the burr is preferred. I've been stuck fixing this stupid computer the last two days. I think tomorrow I might actually get a chance to get out there.

When I read the first paragraph I was going to suggest a used Z06 with some mods. Then I read the 2nd paragraph. Used plain jane C5 with mods is even better...

If you're an AAA member they have a speedometer dyno that they trailer around to AAA offices and they'll test your speedo free of charge. I tested my Z after changing the speedo to Autometer along with the wheel size, diff gear ratio, etc, and by some miracle mine read 99 at 100 mph and was dead on at 30, 40, 50, 60, and 70. If you needed it fast they could probably tell you where there is a dyno and you could drive to it.

I would do that, but I'm still going to use the floor pans and the front frame rails, so I don't want to damage them during the removal process. I drilled out all the spot welds on the seat bracket and man did I screw up the floor pan trying to get all those welds removed. Granted I'm probably not very good at it, but it was a real mess. So this time I figured I'd try and do it as cleanly as possible.

That would be a good idea for sure Lighft01. I'm not cutting the whole rail off on my car though, just the part under the floor.