JMortensen

$465 for a quart of paint! That's almost as good a deal as a Quaife!!!

That's been a feature of car design for a LONG time Austin. Even our Z's have that to a much lesser degree. Look where the front wheel opening intersects the line on the side of a Z vs the rear. The rear wheel arch is lower. 510's are even more like the Ford in that respect. I'm sure someone could cut the flare out to match the front, but I don't mind that in the slightest. Guess I'm just used to seeing flared 510s.

Yep. Reverse rotation requires reversed camshaft. 2 stroke diesels can run backwards and lots of ships just run the engine backwards instead of having a reverse gear. At least that's my understanding of it.

310-538-2610

I'd call Nissan Motorsports too and verify. If its true that they're still available then it's a tough call, because you can still make a case for the thinner ones. Eliminate the spacers and replace with 2 1.6mm disks. I'd still be down, but probably just for 4 disks in that case, and no plates.

According to Gordon's page the H190 and R200 clutches are the same. I think that means the R190 clutches would also be the same. The R160 and R180 have different part numbers, so I think it is safe to assume they are smaller. Everything has to fit inside the ring gear, and the bigger the clutches and gears are the better, so it's not too surprising that the R160 and R180 stuff would be different. http://www.gordon-glasgow.org/lsd5.asp

Synching is adjusting the linkage, not the pilot jets, until the carbs flow the same amount. If you have one carb barely open, and the next open 10% and the next closed entirely the car might idle at 900 rpm, but its really running mostly on the middle two cylinders. Synching might help you out quite a bit. Pilot screws should all be set exactly the same at 1.5 turns out from the stop. Then you adjust the LINKAGE until the carbs flow as close to the same amount as you can get them. Tony is exactly right that when you're on the freeway cruising along you're running on the pilot pretty much all the time. In fact if you're not on a racetrack you're probably on the pilot and only the pilot 80% of the time. Only when you really open it up are you going to hit the other circuits in the carbs. If you have the pilot screws all jacked up to try and synch the carbs, you'll be putting a whole bunch of fuel in some cylinders and barely any in others. Your jets sound reasonable. You've got a pretty large air and a larger fuel jet than I do, but that might make sense on your car depending on how the motor is built.

The LSD is still available new for about $500 sold under the name Power Brute by differentials.com and reiderracing.com, but the parts aren't available apparently. Kinda screwy, but that's the way it is. So it's not like the diff is hard to come by, just the clutches. The crappy thing that happened to us is when the manufacturer started using only ONE clutch disk. The tabs on that ONE disk have to keep the 2, 3, 4, 500 hp from spinning one tire vs both. It really is a lot to ask. I'm sure they just did it to cut costs, but it really sucks.

Why don't you know what size pilots it has? They're right there under the cover next to the jet blocks... I'd suggest you get a fuel pressure regulator. I'd be interested to know what pilots are in it. Are they synched? I know you say they have the same pull, but that doesn't mean that they're synched. I can get over 20 mpg on mine. Something is WRONG with yours if you're getting 6 mpg. Brian's suggestion of a trip to the dyno is a good one. At least there you'll KNOW what's up.

Me too.

Sounds good to me dude. If you wanna do it sounds like you have 2 customers already lined up.

How much slop did you design in between the clutch and the side gear around the tabs? Looks good, BTW.

That's the way to go. Make 50 clutch disks and 50 plates. If you're into it for $400, sell them each for $10. Fair price for us and you make 125% markup. If you go to the trouble I'd buy 4 disks and 4 plates at that price.

Are you using the NA ZX tranny? Because if so I believe the stock speedo cable just bolts up. I remember when I got my Autometer about 10 years ago I was wondering how hard it was going to be but it just plugged right onto the stock speedo cable. I would ASSume that the SW is the same.

I really don't know dick about machinists and all that, but if you have the right thickness material could it be laser cut instead of machined? Seems like that might lower the cost of producing the clutches.

Being that this is a 74 and they're notorious for vapor lock, and this problem presents when the car has been sitting in traffic, I'm going to say that you might want to look at that possibility. I'll tell you what I did to eliminate vapor lock when I was running SU's': I ran an electric pump back by the tank. I ditched the mechanical fuel pump and the stock fuel rail. The fuel pump gets HOT, and the rail is bolted to the head, so even if it has that heat wrap on it it's still bolted the the head. Not good. I ran a rubber fuel line from the filter across the radiator support and back to the carbs. I had it "dead headed" so there were no return lines. This will wear out your fuel pump faster, but it is easier to plumb. That was basically it. I only had vapor lock on my 70 one time when it was 105º at the track, but I never had it again after that. You might also look at improving on the stock heat shield for the exhaust manifold.

Sure. Keep us all updated!

It really is a superior LSD to the Nissan clutch style. It has more clutches that are each larger and stronger than the Nissan ones. Well worth the hassle of getting it to work at that price. New they're closer to $1000. You might want to check and see if you can find if the part # crosses over to the 240SX stuff. The non VLSD 240SX Cusco will plug into the long nose R200 and the regular old R200 side stub shafts fit right in IIRC. The 240SX VLSD replacement has a different spline count on the stubs.

Combustion chamber design, fuel injection, and ECU's have come a LOOOOONG way in the last 20 years or so since the end of L series production. Bigger cam will reduce the dynamic compression but will also throw off older FI systems. There's been a lot of talk about this subject in a recent thread. Search MN47 and you should find it very quickly.

Instead of the D bars I would run a diagonal from behind the driver's head to the passenger's floor. It looks like the purpose of the D bars is to provide more support to the hoop to keep it from folding over on impact. This is also what the diagonal does, but more efficiently. Careful with your shoulder bar. You may find that it won't allow the seat to go back far enough. Check Austin's (240hoke) post about his roll bar. He has the diagonal, and the part of the shoulder bar that goes behind the seat is bent rearwards maybe 3" to allow more room for the seat. I'm anticipating having to do the same on my car. The main hoop should really have 4 bends in it. The reason being if you make the sides come straight down you'll be 4 or 5 inches inside the side of the car, just due to the way the car is shaped. There was another guy who posted pics of his main hoop who did it with two bends like in your drawing there and I think he was going to redo it. In the event of a side impact I think whatever you hit would contact your seat and you well before the cage got involved if you did it like your drawing. If you are doing dimensions in your drawing, check 74_5.0_Z's album. He has a jpg with the specs on the main hoop. I used that drawing to have my main hoop bent. Had to be modified slightly because I used 1.75" tube, but it was extremely helpful. Last thing and I'm sure this is a result of the cad program, not the design, but the main hoop needs to be one tube, and not have joints. So I'm thinking your bends have a seam on either end of the bends because the program makes it that way, and that you aren't actually going to have 5 pieces of pipe in the main hoop (top, sides, and bends) because that wouldn't be legal by any sanctioning body AFAIK.

Damn man. Well you could still do the 1.75's. You need two, might as well make it 4. Still a good deal for the price you paid for the diff.

If you know what the regular lash adjusters look like then look for those. The hyd heads don't have the adjuster.

Yup.

I have seen enough organic disks shuck springs that I always questioned the idea of putting springs on a puck clutch. The puck grabs so violently that putting springs on the disk at all just seems like you're asking for trouble.