JMortensen

Well that's interesting. I can tell you though that mine didn't have that thrust washer in it. I had it apart and back together at least 20 times checking the preload, etc. Plus, similar to the pic I posted from Gordon's website, there is no wear surface on the outside of the side gears on mine. Another thing I'm seeing is that unless you pulled the spacer out then took the picture, you have more disks than the rest of us.

Sounds like a decent idea to me, but go get a MAP gas torch. The propane will kind of half *** work if you sit there for a long time heating up the surface. MAP works great and much quicker.

I need to remove my frame rails from the TC rod back to the middle of the floor on my 240. I'm having a hard time so far. My original plan was to use a big drill bit to drill out the spot weld without going through the floor. Doesn't seem to be working so good so far. My plan is to use the new Bad Dog subframe connectors once they're available, but my concern is that if I end up with 50 holes in the floor the Bad Dog connectors won't allow me to weld the new frame in with those same holes (because I think they're meant to fit OVER existing rails). If that wasn't a problem I'd just weld the new rails in right through the 50 holes that I had drilled into the floor... Anyway, I've seen spot weld cutters and things like that, but will they really allow me to remove the spot welds and not punch a hole right through the 24 gauge Datsun floors??? Any help appreciated.

More stitching progress. I have some other stitching stuff mostly with regards to the cowl area in another thread here: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=106849. I think I'm finally seeing the light at the end of the tunnel. I just need to cut the TC buckets off of the frame rail and stitch the frame rail and the seams inside the engine compartment, clean up a few areas I F'ed up in the back trying to weld from underneath, and that's pretty much it. This is a serious PITA, and for anyone considering it I'd suggest you do subframe connectors and a roll bar for a street car, or a full cage for a race car and forget about this crap. Too much work!!! Here's the new progress:

Anyone else see the 2 Guys Garage show on Speed a couple weeks ago? They put a roots blower on a GM 5.3L and it turned out either 410 hp and 390 ft/lbs, or 390hp and 410 ft/lbs. Pretty impressive. It was also intercooled with a little heat exchanger thingy between the blower and the manifold that had it's own cooling system and a little radiator up front. Kind of off topic I know, but I was impressed. And that blower was relatively tiny.

Thanks for the apology. I know it sucks to be wrong, especially when you're SURE you're right. I want to see what your clutch stack looks like. If you look back to my post about shimming you'll see that Mat73GNZ had a much different set of springs clutch disks and plates than me, Phyxius, or Zfan. Then Gordon had that H190 LSD that was built like mine with the thick shims on the side. Those shims really suck. One more case of saving money by cutting quality...

I love that 940 setup. If I were to do a full widebody, that'd be the one. Probably just end up with flares though...

Mat's right. Smack the halfshafts with a hammer and they should separate. And there is no need to pull the spindle pins and remove the strut housing. Just do them right on the car. You're already at the stage where you can slide the old strut out and slide the new strut in, so do that. Then to tighten just put the top hat back on the strut and set it up in the strut tower. Now you have nice easy access to the gland nut that holds the strut insert in so you can tighten that up. Then disconnect the strut from the tower again, pull the top hat off and put your spring on. Your new aftermarket springs probably will not require a spring compressor, so slide them on. Now you can put the top hat on again, push the strut up into the tower and this time tighten the 3 nuts on top, then hit the center nut for the strut with an impact. I seem to recall that the torque on the center nut is only supposed to be about 40 ft lbs, so don't overdo it.

Search. BTW, N42s all came with dished pistons. F54s came with "turbo" dished pistons.

If you do that test on the bench none of the gears are moving. All you will do is compress the pressure rings. When the car is going around a turn under braking or acceleration forces there is a hell of a lot more going on than just power to the pinion. All of the spider gears are moving at that point. There is a spreading force generated by turning gears on one another, and that's what your test is missing. If you have a friend to help you maybe you could get them to pry on the CV joint while you put a couple hundred ft/lbs of torque on the pinion. Measure that with a dial indicator and then you might have a valid test. Pull it apart and SHOW ME where the side gears are held in a FIXED position to the spiders. Don't get me wrong, the preload on the clutch stack will hold the side gears in position, but once you compress the belleville springs, then what? Figure out what holds the side gears in place when the pressure rings spread, and please inform me as to what that part is. SHOW ME how you could set the gear lash on the spiders. Then when you realize that you are wrong don't forget to take a picture of you eating crow.

Just don't get T-boned on the passenger's side on the way home, I guess!!!

When I envision "right above the tie rod" I'm thinking this sounds like the sway bar mounts are tearing out of the frame rails. That in and of itself is not too hard to fix. It's the crack headed back toward the firewall that I'm not understanding completely. If it is just the sway bar area of the frame rail do a quick search and you'll find a recent discussion along with pics of my frame rails (I think I put pics in the thread anyway). There were a bunch of suggested fixes, all of which would work fine I'm sure.

I'll take 4 disks!!!

Realistically they're probably the same spring. I mean how many spring manufacturers are there out there making Z springs? And then for them to be within 5 lbs of each other... I'd go with the cheaper one.

One more thank you for you Mat! Got em today. They look great. They'll be stitched onto a driving suit someday...

It's just like the stock pedals. You can't just attach the pedals to nothing, you have to have a frame to hang that assy from. On the stock Z that frame is the pedal box. On my friend's 510 he built a frame out of 1/2" square stock that had maybe 6 attachment points to the firewall (he used stock dash attachment points. Then he tested it for deflection when he stepped on the pedal. It was a little flexy so he reinforced some more and finally got it stiff enough. So its about as far from bolt on as you can get. I'd imagine it would be a little easier to do if you had a full cage with a dash bar going across.

Wow! There's a good argument!

What part of this side gear is "held" by the case? No part of the gear is held by the case. There is no thrust washer. There is no thrust surface of any kind on the gear, except where it sits on the pressure ring. The pressure rings move in and out since that is after all their function. So the side gears also move. We're not talking an inch and a half of movement here. Probably 1/8" max. Then Salsbury diffs have been defying logic and common sense for the last 60 or 70 years. I'll be waiting for that apology!!! Wrong is one thing. Belligerently wrong is another. You've not only been consistently wrong in this thread, you've been rude and insulting while doing it.

You must be a hands on kind of guy. Go take one apart. Then think to yourself: What in this carrier is holding the pinion gears and the side gears in a fixed position with a preset lash? Then you'll realize... ABSOLUTELY NOTHING. And what happens when you try to turn gears on each other and there is nothing holding them together? They try to spread apart. Same thing here.

I drove on the street with 37s, in traffic, with a big cam, lightweight flywheel, and stiffer than stock clutch for a LONG time. No problems. I think the 41s might be agressive, but shouldn't prevent you from driving the car on the street. Definitely put them back in though. I would: Reinstall chokes synch carbs Install a cheap one wire narrow band O2 This will cost you a grand total of about $40 US, and then you'll be able to watch the air/fuel mix all the time with a voltmeter. Yes, the narrowband isn't as accurate as a wideband, but you can get it a hell of a lot closer, then take it to the dyno and fine tune with their wideband O2. If you can't get it running to your satisfaction with simple jetting changes, then step down to 34's or 37's. Just my $.02

I don't have mine apart anymore so I can't get that measurement for you. I would venture a guess to say that there is more than 3mm between the gear and the cross pin on the R200, but that's just my recollection so if you really want to know for sure you'll need to do your own measuring. As far as the gears being set to a particular lash, they definitely are not. You're right that the side gear sits in the pressure ring, and the clutches are on the other side of the pressure ring. So basically you have case/clutches/pressure ring/side gears/pinions/side gears/pressure ring/clutches/case. Some differentials use thrust washers on the side gears and the pinion gears. The Nissan ones do not. No thrust washers in a Nissan LSD at all. At least not the R200 that I own. The cross pin is the diamond shaped part that rides on the ramps on the pressure rings. When torque is applied the car doesn't immediately want to move. The weight of the vehicle provides resistance to movement, and this resistance makes the cross gear shaft ride up the V created by the two halves of the pressure ring. This happens every time the car is accelerated, and takes place before the car ever starts to move. So the driveshaft moves, but the wheels do not move before the clutches get loaded. The spiders will ride in the side gears just the same as without a load, but as the load is applied the ramps will force the pressure rings apart, so the teeth of the pinion gears move out of the deepest part of the side gear teeth. It's the side gears and the pressure rings being forced apart that squeezes the clutches tighter. So the more torque you can put to the LSD the harder it locks up. All that pressure on the clutch pack comes from the cross pins, is transferred through the pinion gear teeth to the side gears, to the pressure rings, and to the clutch stack on the other side. The case is the only part which is expected to contain this loading without moving. IMHO the potential misalignment of the spiders on the side gears is also what makes the 2 pinion R180 LSD so weak. Search the archives and you'll find the common consensus is that the 2 pin LSD is weak and prone to break the case. IMO this is because the spreading load is taken by two small pinion gears, and 4 spreads the load more evenly (and should also keep the pressure rings spread more evenly apart from each other as well). So it is definitely not the case that the spiders and side gears have a set lash. The harder you hit the gas the harder they push on each other, transferring that really high amount of load to the clutch pack.

There are some LSD units where the spider gears don't change position. The Phantom Grip, Eaton, and Quaife fit this description. The Nissan LSDs, regardless of whether they're for an R180 or an R200 do allow the side gears to move away from each other. Here is an explanation of how from Gordon Glasgow's site: http://www.gordon-glasgow.org/lsd1.asp You should read this whole description if it still doesn't make sense. Basically the pressure rings move apart as the cross pin slides up the V shape. So the side gears DO move apart, but maybe your confusion was in the fact that it is the whole pressure ring that moves, and the side gears are inside the rings.

Here's a box flared 510. Is that the kind of flare you're talking about? I have seen them on S30's before, but I couldn't find a pic. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/628519

I don't honestly know what you're asking, BJ, but as the LSD works the side gears get farther apart since the cross pin cam spreads the pressure rings apart, and the side gears are inside the pressure rings. As long as you could get the stub shafts all the way in I don't think you'd have a problem with the LSD acting funky.