JMortensen

I just searched "r200 r230" and came up with this: http://forums.hybridz.org/search.php?searchid=296901. You'll have to dig through those threads a little bit, and spend some time reading. TONS of info in there. Nobody is going to have a yes or no type of answer for you. You can nurse an R180 around with 500 hp if you're gentle enough with it. Realistically though, it's going to be R200 or R230 with that kind of hp.

Lots of info right at your fingertips. Just search and read.

For best power you want somewhere right aroud 13:1. Stoichiometric is 14.5:1. You don't really want stoich at WOT. Your basic tuning choices are needles and nozzles, springs in the domes, and oil. That's pretty much it. As you've already figured out the adjuster on the bottom only adjusts the mix at idle. Once the piston lifts up it's more about the needle profile. There have been some really good threads about tuning SU's in the last few months, with links to some British car sites where they talked about the springs in depth. A little search should bring them up.

I don't think there is a class for you in SCCA road racing, but maybe you'd fit in autox in a Mod class. For those classes I don't believe there is a limit as to chassis attachment points. So you should be good to go. I didn't understand your last question, but you will probably be slowest in a Mod class. They're extremely fast purpose built race cars. You can download the rulebook from the SCCA website.

It is a cone shaped poly bushing that slides onto the strut shaft.

For safety the standard prop valve is the way to go for sure, but think about when you're at the end of the straight at 100+. Your rear brakes aren't doing squat for most of that braking zone, and possibly all of it. Then at slow speeds the dual masters kinda sucks, because you can apply more pressure to the rear brakes at low speeds than you can at high speeds without lockup. I am going to try and run both, and choose a rear master which is too agressive for the front master, but cut it down with the prop valve and hopefully that will end up with some more balanced braking in all situations. It really is something of a guessing game at that point though. Might have to try a couple different prop valves before I find one with the right "knee". Putting a prop valve in the front brakes is somewhat verboten Peter. I'm surprised that worked at all, for the same reason as stated above. The harder you step on the pedal the less pressure gets there (proportionally).

One problem with this idea is that you now have 6 attachment points. So if you have a 6 point limit to the cage in the class you're racing in, you've already used them all up. May not be a problem for you, but I thought I'd point it out anyway.

"And knowing is half the battle. G.I. JOE!!!"

They also have a different pressure ratio Terry. I think the Z is 5:1, and these are 7:1 so they give you more pressure at the master just due to the position of the pivot pin and the length of the pedal. The big deal about these is that a proportioning valve doesn't limit the rear brakes proportionally. It kinda goes up a ways and then cuts off more than proportionally. I had no idea about this until about a year ago. It's kinda weird, but here's the basic idea if you really care: http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_proportioning_valves.shtml

http://www.stockcarproducts.com/pedassy.htm

I don't think that's it. I think its that there is only one clutch plate which is only .070" thick trying to get that side gear moving in the right direction.

The reason I showed you that side gear is because it is obvious that it doesn't ride on a thrust washer on the end there. That gear, like the gears in my diff, don't sit on the case. That was the point that I was trying to make the whole time. Aside from that point I agree with you, finally. It does appear that you have a vastly superior LSD. What's weird though is that Gordon came up with a brand spankin new NISMO H190 LSD that had the same setup inside as mine. I think that diff was purchased just last year brand new from NISMO. So my hypothesis is that they're all made the shitty way nowadays. That is too bad, because yours definitely looks more stout. I think the weak part of the diff is the SINGLE clutch disk, which was the point of this thread in the first place. ONE clutch just isn't enough to transfer the torque to the wheel that wants to spin. I haven't heard any reports of stripped spiders. I have heard 2 people on this thread alone with that lone clutch disk stripped of all it's teeth.

Stroke is how far the pistons go up and down in the cylinder. Bore is the diameter of the cylinder. If you stroke an engine you increase the stroke. If you bore an engine you increase the diameter of the pistons. The 3.1 stroker is a 2.8 liter that has a diesel crankshaft with a longer stroke that has also been bored for larger diameter pistons. So you could also say "my bored and stroked 3.1L". You could stroke a smaller engine just as easily. I suppose you could stroke the 2.4 and use the L28 crankshaft. Don't know what the displacement would be afterwards though... Deck height is the height of the top of the block from the crank centerline, I believe. Deck height cannot be changed with a different headgasket, but can be changed by "decking the block" which means milling the top of the block down. A thinner headgasket will give you higher compression, but it won't give you less chamber volume. The chamber volume is measured straight off of the head, no gasket in there. So you're standard displacement equation has the volume of the cylinder, the volume of the chamber, and the volume of the headgasket. It has it's own separate value. As to your 2.8 stroker question, you'll find that stroking an engine is A LOT more expensive than boring an engine. So if you're going to rebuild an engine and you want more displacement, you'd do better just boring it than just stroking it. Search this site and google and you'll find many threads and many sites dedicated to the stroker 3.1. Read for a while and you'll find that it takes a different crank, different rods, and different pistons, and you need to bore the engine to make that combo happen. Then you get into rod ratio and a bunch of other crap that is just confusing as hell. I don't mean to discourage you though. Dive in, and have fun. You also might want to check out How to Modify Your Nissan/Datsun OHC Engine. It has a lot of L series specific information that you might want to know as you become more familiar.

Thanks for the input guys, I appreciate it. I'm going to give the cutoff wheel a shot first, since I already have that tool. If that isn't working I'll try the cutter.

$1.2 million for the whole company??? That seems like a pretty good deal.

Should also say that I've done the front of the car in about 1/8th the amount of time it took to do the back. Rotisserie is king here!!!

Thanks guys! I'm pretty happy with the way it's turning out, just a little disappointed that it took so long and required that much effort. Definitely got a lot out of the welding. I feel a whole lot more confident taking on other projects with the mig now. I LOVE my Millermatic 135. LOVE IT!!!

Even the full size one doesn't look much better. It was just a shitty camera. EDIT-Here you go. This is as good as its going to get on that picture unfortunately:

That's not my side gear. I took that picture from Gordon's site to show you that the side gears aren't machined on the end. Apparently yours is, but up until now none of the others that I've seen have been. His site includes a complete breakdown of a brand spankin new 2 pinion LSD, I think it might be an R180. But it is not my picture, and not my gear. My side gears were obviously contacting the pressure rings. Again in my sucky exploded pic above you can see the shiny backside of the side gear, but the end is brown. What part do you think was wearing???

Oh, somehow I missed that part. Mine were nice and smooth inside the pressure ring. What does that tell you?

Don't be such a jerk, man! You really are insulting, and for no good reason. I got this diff out of a 300ZXT. MANY other people on this site use the same exact diff. It isn't cobbled together. It had 80 something thousand on it when I got it. I put another 40K on it and autoxed for 5 seasons and did probably a dozen or more track days. The spiders and side gears looked fantastic. It hasn't been run since I shimmed it. Just sitting there assembled waiting to go back in. You're right, the pressure ring is what pushes on the clutches. But once the pressure ring moves away from the clutches, the gears will force themselves apart. What are those little things called that go behind the gears? THRUST washers? Why are they called that? Because they take the THRUST that the gears turning against each other produces. If there is nothing else holding the side gears because the pressure rings moved, then yeah, I am SURE that the gears will separate to some degree in the middle.

The deal about the side gear from Gordon's site was that the area where the side gear pushes on the pressure ring was machined and the end of the side gear was not. Usually if you're going to run two pieces of metal on each other you want a finished surface. That was a brand new diff that he had pics of there I'm pretty sure. I've gone back and found this picture. It isn't what you asked for, but it's all I have at this point. Unfortunately the camera I had at the time sucked donkey balls so I've since purchased a much better one. What you can see in the picture is the side gears sitting with the end that would hit the thrust washer on your diff. On mine, its pretty clear to see that they are brown on the end, stained from the oil. pressure rings are upside down, but you can clearly see that the pressure rings, the clutches, and the side gear where it hits the pressure ring are all cleaner and not brown. The end of the side gear is brown BECAUSE IT NEVER WORE THAT BURNT OIL RESIDUE OFF. Because it floats. That's all I've got for you proof-wise BJ, but it's pretty conclusive to me. That picture shows every piece inside the diff, BTW

I worked for Randy's Ring and Pinion. I've seen just about every single LSD in existence from a Dana 30 to a Chevy 14 bolt, semi-float and full float axles (what is a non-float?). All of them had thrust washers on the pinions and side gears as I recall. I was very surprised to see that mine did not have any thrust washers. You've proven your case for YOUR differential, not mine. Hopefully Zfan or Phyxius will take some pics of their LSDs because I'm not about to take mine back apart just to prove what's inside to you. I already took pictures and if there were thrust washers in there I would have plenty of pictures of them. If there are no thrust washers then the side gears are basically floating. YOUR CARRIER IS FAR SUPERIOR TO MINE. That much is clear. You are still wrong with respect to the thrust on the side gears on MY differential. If the gear doesn't hit the case, then the distances between the side gears and the pinions is not fixed. It just isn't. FWIW, I should apologize to you for wrongly stating what was inside your differential.

Looking at those pics I'd look hard at replacing the whole rail.

Also my side gears didn't have thrust washers between the gear and the pressure rings either, and those would be very obvious given the oil holes in them.