JMortensen

No, because the gear on the counter shaft cannot be changed. If you could change the corresponding gear on the counter shaft then it could be.

Yeah I meant that the engine might be too long. No idea about the wiring. I'd expect you're going to be in trouble if you don't know a whole bunch about it yourself...

I thought the strut rod was held in place by the bearing which sits in the metal part on top. It's been a while since I've dealt with stock stuff though...

Vacuum booster for the brakes can make a hissing noise. Usually changes the tone when you step on the gas. EDIT--When you step on the BRAKE. Duh...

A LOT of suspension, and it had a pretty basic L28 with 44 Mikunis at the time. There's been a LOT more work on the suspension and a much crazier motor build since back in 2000 too, but it hasn't driven under it's own power since 2003 since I'm still working on it. Thanks for the compliment.

That's pretty weird dude. I've run MANY track days and autoxes with passengers and never noticed the right front locking first. BTW when I first put my car on scales I had set the height by fender height only. On the scales with me in the car I got the following: LF 640 -- RF 620 LR 650 -- RR 640 I don't know what those numbers would have been like with a 250 lb passenger, but like I said the car was set with EVEN fender heights and that's the corner weights I got.

Thanks cygnus for the link. Looks like mine will be here: http://videos.streetfire.net/player.aspx?fileid=3B512F0F-8AD1-4DAB-BD8E-0AE1768FB642 when they're done optimizing it (in a few minutes).

Well I guess I had THAT wrong... oops. On the quench and 2mm gasket thing mentioned by spork. I thought those were mutually exclusive.

Those struts are HUGE!

If you're looking for that slammed look regardless of how the car performs go for it. If you want the car to handle then you need a reasonable amount of suspension travel. One good way to lower the car without losing too much travel would be to put some 14" rims on it. Probably not what you wanted to hear though, huh...

I don't think anyone else was going to finish that project the way it should be done Alex. Glad you're sticking with it. MY OLD ROLLBAR SHALL RIDE AGAIN!!!

I think you'll have a REALLY hard time finding a TUV approved camber plate.

There are some that you can get with a normal brake flare fitting on one end, and the female end which attaches to the hard line on the other end. That would be how to get rid of the S line. Banjo fittings don't have double flares in them, they use copper crush washers to seal. The caliper already has the double flare fitting in it, so I think it would take some figuring out of the banjo bolt to get everything to seal. Not worth it when you can just get a regular double flared line with a male end on one end.

Reducing the track by shortening the control arm is fine so long as you can move the upper pivot in as well. If not you'll reduce the track and reduce negative camber as well. I think you'll lose a LOT more than you gain if you take this route.

Here searchy, searchy, searchy...

Yeah, the transmission should bolt right up. Getting the motor in the engine compartment might be a problem...

You might want to search for "welder" and see what comes up. It's been discussed a lot, and the basic jist is you get what you pay for. Harbor Freight carries some Hobart welders that are pretty good but don't have the infinite voltage control. The Hobart is the cheapest welder I would buy.

I should have said temp sensor not thermostat, sorry. It is a 100º Celsius switch that turns the fan on. It is the same temp sensor used in all late 80s early 90s Nissans IIRC. I know for sure the Maxima uses them also. Easy way to get ahold of one is pull a lower rad hose from a 240SX.

I attached two 1" x .125" pieces of aluminum bar stock across the radiator where the shroud would have been attached, then bolted the fan mounts onto the aluminum. As far as the thermostat goes I'm using the thermostat from a 240SX. The 240SX lower radiator hose has a metal sleeve in it, and the thermostat goes into the metal sleeve (kind of like when people put their radiator cap on the upper hose if you're familiar with that). I'm sure you could do something similar to get yours mounted into the lower hose. I think quite a few of the pipe threads in a Z are NPT BTW. My brother in law wanted to block off one of his emissions fittings and we went to the hardware store and found a NPT pipe plug that fit right in.

I'd get some stainless lines and try some Porterfield R4S or Hawk HP or KVR pads. What the bigger calipers will do is be a slightly larger heat sink, meaning it will take a little longer to boil the fluid. Since that isn't a normal problem for you (since you got your brakes bled, right?) I'd focus on the more aggressive pad material and the lines to make the pedal feel better.

Sounds like you have a stuck caliper to me.

That's $10 cheaper than the ones I bought. Looks like a good deal.

That's the perfect solution IMO. Lower the battery so that the cg is lower, but it still offsets the driver's weight nicely. Never understood why people want to move it to the rear deck where it's just as high as the original spot but now is outside of the axles.

Maybe I'm looking wrong but I haven't seen these parts come up on ebay lately. That's probably where I'll sell them, but I didn't do so well on my last auction so I'm trying to figure out reasonable reserves I guess.

"Don't live there because it's dangerous" is a bit silly. You're right. Every place is "dangerous" to some extent. But ignoring the risks is pretty stupid too. Like everything in life, where you choose to live is an assumed risk. I don't know about you but I checked to see if my house was in a flood plain before I bought it. Maybe that doesn't make sense to you, but it sure made sense to me. There's a development in Santa Maria, CA that makes me cringe every time I drive by it. It is IN A RIVERBED. Not kidding. IN A RIVERBED. And there is a levy around this development about 10 feet high. The riverbed is pretty big, I'll grant you and the river is normally very small. Still an amazingly stupid place to build houses, and I'd never buy one. You say "eventually something predictable and bad will happen to you". You can figure out how PROBABLE it is that something bad will happen as well, and it's a pretty good idea to do so. How likely is it that a tornado hits YOUR house? Not very likely. Extreme cold and heat can be dealt with pretty efficiently for the most part with the occassional ice storm screwing things up. Earthquakes are a big problem, but you can buy a house that isn't 90 years old that is built to stand up to them. Risk mitigated. Poor neighborhood is a problem that's tougher to deal with, since the fact that you're living in a poor neighborhood probably dictates that it will be hard to leave. Downstream of a dam is one that I would try to avoid at all costs. Right next to a river. Yeah, I probably wouldn't buy there either. The risks of hurricanes could be lessened by the structure you live in, but most importantly where you live. Once again, New Orleans is like a worst case scenario flood plain. Everyone knew it, and 3/4 of the city was able to evacuate accordingly when the storm came. It was mostly the poor people who couldn't manage to get out.