JMortensen

Sounds like oil rings to me. Stem seals usually cause smoke at startup IME, but yours doesn't smoke at startup becaue the seals are fine and the oil is too cold and thick to get past the rings. My $.02.

I agree with you, but the 13" wheel thing isn't about what looks better, it is about what is faster. But you're right, this isn't a race car. It's a show car. Guess I don't like show cars...

I'd happily sell them, but they aren't in the best of shape. They looked OK when I got them, but they've had 8 years of abuse since then. The passenger seat looks OK, but the driver's side really needs to be recovered. PM me if you're interested.

Well I'm just guessing here, but a Pro7 driver told me he was hitting 135 on the back straight at Buttonwillow (no bus stop) and I would figure a GT4 510 would be quite a bit faster than a Pro7 car. GT4 cars don't normally have speedos in them, but I know for sure they're a lot faster than a Pro7 car, having seen them both in person. I know a Porsche 944T that I was MUCH faster than said she hit 145 there. Congratulations BTW, you have without a doubt the heaviest 510 I've ever heard of. Still I think your brakes are overkill and here's why. Your brakes are basically the same as Vette brakes, right? So a Vette weighs 3200 lbs and I know people who race Vettes in T1 use the stock brakes, as well I know a guy who races a Firebird with Vette brakes (he also hits 145 on that back straight at Buttonwillow or so he tells me). So your brakes are, IMHO, overkill. They just aren't necessary to slow your 2700 lb car from 130 mph. The problem with getting more brakes than you need is that you also get more rim and tire than you need. Your car would be faster IMO with an appropriate wheel and tire choice than with the 17's or 18's on it. In addition to not having to get all that rotating mass accelerated and decelerated, your suspension would likely be better set up in the front with a shorter tire in terms of roll center, cg, bumpsteer, available travel, etc. I went overkill on my brakes too BTW. I bought JSK's 12" wilwood setup and it is more than I needed for sure but I bought it because it was a LOT cheaper than an equivalent 11" setup. As you said, let's get back to THIS 510 for a second. What do you think this coupe with a lightweight SR20 weighs? 2000? 1900? As to the brake bias thing I took a quick look at this guy's car and it appears that he is running a regular master cylinder. Unless you go with dual masters and make the rear master much smaller than the front I don't see how you could possibly have any semblance of proper bias with 13's in front and 10's in the back. What that means is that his rears are doing relatively nothing compared to his fronts. IMO it's show, not go.

I still disagree with you Anthony. I think you could have had PLENTY of brakes in your wagon without going to 13's. GT4 510's don't have 13" rotors (they only have 13" wheels), and they can whoa it down from more than 133 mph for hours on end in endurance races. Your car maybe a little different in that it's a wagon and it has a 6 cylinder swap, both of which make it heavier, but I am still absolutely convinced that a brake setup similar to what John Coffey had on his 240 would be more than enough for your wagon. He had 11" rotors front and rear with Outlaw calipers.

It's like putting heavy flywheels on the wheels. Plus it requires larger diameter wheels which are also heavier so now you have 2 heavy flywheels on each corner. The big wheels raise the car and make it look stupid, so then you have to lower the crap out of it and now even with the struts sectioned it doesn't have any travel, so it basically rides on the bumpstops. Then there's the fact that NO 510 needs 13" rotors, and that the 10" rotors in the back couldn't possibly keep up with the setup he has in the front (since he doesn't have dual master cylinders) etc, etc, etc. This is a pet peeve of mine. The car is nicely done. I just think he went a little retarded on the brakes and wheels.

We have a little something called common sense here. In addition to understanding how brakes work, we also realize that the drag from putting an 8 inch wide tire on your Z is not as significant to the increase in handling you get from it. Still can't believe that crap was said more than once on classiczcars.com...

It was really hard to read through that incredibly lame thread (gotta love Hybrid Z for not being like that), but the one thing that made me chuckle was the diff discussion. "What diff are you going to run with 1100 hp?" "We're upgrading to an R180." R180 for 1100 hp???!!!???

There have been threads here before about the steering wheel feeling loose when one of these quick release hubs is installed. I would venture a guess that the one that costs $20 is going to be the one that is loose.

Looks like they stretched the front end about 3 feet. Ick.

Good job dude. Sometimes its the little detail...

It is also possible to turn threads on a lathe. If you could find a machinist who can do that and has a big enough lathe to put the strut in...

Did they ever make a coupe version of an Austin-Healey 100-6? Cause that's what I would imagine that it would look like. Very pretty car.

I've been dragging *** on my project for the past couple weeks, and I think this really lit the fire again. I looked and looked and looked at seats and talked to a bunch of different people and I had pretty much decided on the Ultra-Shield Pro Road Race seat but for one thing. The side bolsters were really big, very similar to a Kirkey. I just wasn't sure I wanted to deal with trying to get in around the steering wheel with the gigantic side bolsters in the way. Looked some more and found Ultra-Shield's Spec Miata seat which has less prominent side bolsters, but no shoulder bracing at all. Then I found it. The RALLY SPORT seat has the lower bolsters and the shoulder braces. Next was to search for the best price. Looked and looked and looked at websites, finally came up with this: http://www.whittlesperformance.com/seats.html. The Rally Sport seat with a cover was $205 + $20 shipping! Paid him cc over the phone, seat showed up UPS about a week later. If you need a seat just call Dave over there, he'll hook you up. With my roll bar hoop about to be bent I figured I HAVE to have the seat installed where I want it so that I can make sure it clears all of the roll bar tubes. Now all I have to do is figure out how to mount this sucker. Gotta retain sliders so that the wifey can race it too... This seat weighs 13 lbs with the cover. The recaros I'm taking out were ~30 each. That's a nice up high weight savings. The seat is super comfy and I'm sure will provide 8000% more support than the Recaros did. Recaros were a great street seat but this is in a whole other league. Pics:

Those are the ****. A friend of mine had a huge box of em and he helped me out on wiring my headlights with relays. They are so much easier...

All of the intake ports are round. It's the exhaust that are round or square. An 83 na head should be a P79 which has the round ports. Should work fine. If the plan is to port the crap out of the head, then a square port head would be a better choice.

Something I figured out in my last round of auctions... do not set your auctions to close at 6:00 on Friday. No one is there to snipe. Didn't do nearly as well as I should have Oh well at least some people got great deals.

Congratulations John. Every once in a while insurance companies will surprise you like that and actually do the right thing.

My dad once received a birthday present when I was a little kid that was "Bullshit spray" to be used on the person who was full of bullshit. Had a very literal ****-of-a-bull type smell. My brother and I used to chase each other around and spray each other with it.

I lift inside rears in slaloms or so I'm told, but I think that was due to a swaybar binding issue that I've hopefully gotten fixed. You didn't ask me, but the issue with the Quaife is that it tends to spin the inside tire. You need to run softer in the rear with the Quaife than with a clutch type LSD. Try loosening up the sway bar end links if you get wheelspin on tight turns. If that isn't enough just take one end link completely off then it will be like running no rear bar at all. More important than a little wheelspin IMO is getting the front end to hook up. Increasing caster and negative camber helps, and a whole lot of toe out on the front can be good too. Might try something like 1/4" toe out. Don't leave your car like this for the street though, unless you have an unlimited tire budget and don't mind a twitchy car. If this is a school though your first autox experience you might want to concentrate more on your driving than the car setup.

Actually there are a lot of these scams going on in Nigeria (or Africa at least). And this is not the first time they've killed people involved in the scams. Lots of idiots get lured to "meetings" in Europe where they are murdered. If you want to see how non-English speaking African scammers can be taken advantage of, check http://www.ebolamonkeyman.com. Content not appropriate for work or children.

Hey, no problem! I'm glad to see you finally started getting some power out of that engine. Still think there would be more in a set of 45's though...