JMortensen

What is the problem you're having with the tranny? Aside from that, how would the transmission get hurt by the diff ratio? That don't make no sense. The transmission isn't getting trashed by the differential. To answer your other question, the ZX transmission has much better ratios for a 4.11 diff.

So am I reading correctly that the invoice was 16,100 and you offered 17,600 and they said no? That's a pretty generous offer on your part at 9% over invoice and they were pretty dumb not to accept it. I'd be looking to get the car for 16,900 or so (about 5% over invoice). At least that's what AAA says to do.

Read this: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=87758

Well, clutches in most LSD's are just steel, so the friction modifier works in a metal to metal friction type setup. The Quaife works when the gears rub the case, again metal to metal friction...

The carbs are common and people who don't understand SU's like downdraft Webers because that 32/36 carb came on just about every small engine in the 70's and 80's. They are not a performance carb in a Z application, but if it takes your car from non-running to running then more power to you.

What those do is keep the car stable under braking. When you brake hard the TC bushings compress. On a stock Z you can feel the front end squirm under really hard braking. That's the bushings compressing unevenly. One side compresses a bit and that makes the wheelbase shorter on that side and so the car turns (just a little bit) in much the same way that a skateboard turns. Then the other side compresses and the same thing happens in the other direction. With the G machine setup you linked to the nylon/aluminum doesn't compress at all so you don't get that twitchiness from the bushings. It uses a bushing in the back end of the TC rod. If you get that setup save your old rubber bushings and put the best 2 in the back. They are just there to allow the movement of the TC rod, so you don't need a poly bushing back there that will bind up the TC rod's movement.

VLSD's are sealed and have their own internal fluid that determines the LSD characteristics. Additive not necessary. FWIW, SWEPCO 201 goes in all my diffs (and John Coffey used it in his Quaife too), and you don't need additives with 201 anyway.

OK, thanks. I'll tell him to buy some 240 wheel cylinders. Jon

It has been a LONG time since I've had Z drums apart. My brother-in-law has a 240 that's bone stock and he needs wheel cylinders. It seems 280 wheel cylinders are about 1/2 the price of the 240 stuff. So the question is does the 280 stuff fit on a 240. I remember that the 240 has a single piston wheel cylinder and the 280 has a dual piston. Can you just bolt them in, or is there some other parts that need to be swapped out as well (hardware, shoes, etc)? Jon

Best bang for your buck IMO is going to be swapping the diff. The 3.36 that's in there isn't going to like the tall 1st gear in the transmission too much. Put in a 3.90 or a 4.11 and that would be just about ideal.

I think those are cool but I'd rather have a radical. I guess you REALLY can't drive a radical on the street though...

Out of curiosity, why do you want to do this? Are you fixing a transmission? The ZX tranny has very uniform spacing between the gears. If you put in the shorter Z 3rd you'd have... well... a short 3rd... plus then you'd have a big 3-4 gap. Have you played with this yet? http://www.geocities.com/z_design_studio/transmission.html

It does the exact same thing. If you move the pivot out to get more camber then that is another thing entirely because the increased camber will help traction in corners, but moving the pivot up 3/4" or putting a 3/4" spacer on the outboard end does the same thing. Putting a spacer in is a lot easier.

Z suspension isn't the greatest, so you want to go Mustang suspension instead??? Stock the Mustang is an ill handling vehicle to say the least. Yeah, you can buy a bunch of aftermarket suspension for them and make them handle well, but why not put that same effort into the Z suspension??? It's lighter, IRS, and fits under the car. Wheelbase is front to back BTW. a 105" wide car would be almost 9' wide. BTW I used to work around the corner from Maximum Motorsports and autox against them all the time. We did some track days too. What I learned from that is that the Stang needs some SERIOUS work to handle. It can be made to handle GREAT, make no mistake, but it needs a lot more work than a Z to get there.

MSA is going to sell stock stuff I'm sure. But you can measure the length of the lines and then order from any number of places that sell you whatever you need and make to your specs after you order.

Weird. It's gotta be a "close enough" thing. I guess maybe I don't know everything WEBEEzed....

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=103886 Just moving the pivot up 3/4 or whatever won't fix it, but as ezzzzz says neither will getting a spacer that is 3/4" thick or 15/16" thick. In fact, you're basically doing the same thing. That said it would probably be good enough for a very agressive street driver.

If you want to go thru the trouble go to http://www.adobe.com and download Premiere trial version. Then you can use it for a month. Only trouble is IIRC you're on dial up and the program is several hundred megs...

Do they use a different countershaft or is it just close enough?

Alex if you're worried about the strength of the mount why don't you add one more piece from the center of the crossmember to the newly designed 1/4" plate mount bracket thing. Might even go with two braces just maybe just outside the bolts that attach the motor to the plate. On the one hand the engine doesn't weigh much, but on the other hand the motor mounts have to hold back ALL of the torque of the engine so that it goes through the driveline. I'd say your 1/4" plate was overkill, but maybe not so much with that big hole in it.

The side gears need to drive the worm gears on their little axles until they hit the inside of the case. This is quite a bit of movement in a Quaife, and from the pictures and descriptions I've seen of the type II Torsen it should be more movement before the gears engage the case.

No, because the gear on the counter shaft cannot be changed. If you could change the corresponding gear on the counter shaft then it could be.

Yeah I meant that the engine might be too long. No idea about the wiring. I'd expect you're going to be in trouble if you don't know a whole bunch about it yourself...

I thought the strut rod was held in place by the bearing which sits in the metal part on top. It's been a while since I've dealt with stock stuff though...