JMortensen

Read guys, read. The part number and supplier was given only 5 posts ago.

Last time I tried to upload my autox video it didn't work. There is a very short clip in my album.

Don't get cheap tire store wheel spacers would be my advice, because you'll need something lugcentric for the back and the cheapies are usually hubcentric IME (and the hub size is wrong for Z's too). I'd suggest you have a machinist make them for you to the thickness you need. Or you could buy the Coleman Racing 1/4" billet spacers http://www.colemanracing.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=2161. That's what I have, but they're more expensive than I feel they should be.

Thanks Mike.

Nobody has any idea of what this stuff is worth?

That's the way I do it. Coolant is cheap.

I don't doubt any of that. But you hit the nail on the head, Z brakes are marginal for track duty. Here's the R4S that I saved from a Buttonwillow track day. These pads had maybe a couple thou street miles before this day and were at least 90% when I left that morning. I think the pad material got so hot it totally delaminated. There is no pad material left on this pad whatsoever. The piston went right through the pad. The calipers weren't stuck or anything like that. I think the pads just got too hot.

What are the values of 240 bumpers? How about 240 tail lights? Grille? My stuff is in reasonable condition, not mint. Sometimes I sell stuff and I wonder if I'm charging anything close to the right amount...

How dare you think logically dr hunt! Don't you know we need to ignore the reality of the situation in order to stay PC? You want to be PC don't you? Don't want to end up like Hastert... On the other hand, if the Japanese can BUILD AN ISLAND to put an airport on maybe the solution is to raise the level of the city then rebuild it.

Just so you know Axxis is one company and Hawk is another. For the longest time Axxis Metal Master were supposed to be THE good street pad. IME they suck donkey balls. They warp rotors and start to come apart in big chunks when they get too hot, which is way too fast. I know Axxis makes a bunch of pads, but the Metal Master was supposed to be the one for the Z. I have also used their organic pad on a friend's Z, that was fine for an organic pad. Wouldn't put it on a car that is driven hard though... Hawk makes about 10 different pads, and only 2 of them are for street driving, the HP and HP+. The rest are full on race pads. Porterfield makes the R4S which works good on the street but they aren't up to high stress track day type situations. I believe you can get R4S shoes as well. KVR supposedly makes good pads/shoes. Haven't tried them myself, but I hear good things. If your car needs pads NOW, I'd just go get some some crappy organic pads from the auto parts store. Then order your good pads and swap the pads out. You don't need to turn the rotors to swap the pads, and it will keep you from going metal to metal now, and lucky for us a brake pad swap in a Z is a 30 minute deal.

I'm putting zerks in my rear control arms and sway bar bushings to be able to grease them, but I have a question about the grease to use. Some info on the web says grease can eat the bushings, the box for the bushings says "impervious to petroleum products", but the grease they provide looks like dielectric grease. Is there a type to use and another to stay away from? I've never seen dielectric grease in a grease gun tube, so I don't know how I'd grease them thru the zerks if I had to use that type of grease (what is that stuff anyway, silicone?).

There has to be a TUV approved 2.5" spring available locally. H&R or some other European manufacturer should be able to help you.

If it's the same for the L24, L26, and L28 I'd assume that it would work for the L20

Yep, that '70 looks like it is missing a few bits and pieces...

The usual ZX problem is that the mainshaft nut backs off. This basically causes all of the gears to get loose on the main shaft. This play in the mainshaft gears takes out the countershaft bearings, which is usually identified by the transmission sounding like it has a bunch of marbles in it when you're in neutral with the clutch out. Not sure what the ticking in gear could be other than a chipped tooth as suggested above. Checking fluid level is a very good piece of advice...

I have the wheel you show in the picture. I've tried 15, 14, and then that 13 and the 13 was the only one that kept me from hitting the door panel with my elbows and hands. Yeah, it's a little hard to steer in a parking lot but that's nothing compared to the 250/45/15 slicks at 25 psi at an autox. The upshot is that if you drive it for a couple months and you'll have nice big arms for the ladies.

It fits. It's fairly easy. Search and you'll get more details.

Isn't Drax running flattops w/P90? Seem to remember that... and pinging issues...

That is one BADASS VIDEO! Thanks. One of my favorite cars on my all time favorite track.

I've heard the name. I'm sure the car is fast, just not at that autox. I bet it would be a lot more impressive at the Thunderhill track day the day before Shasta.

Hmm, you could be right Tim. I'm trying to remember how that worked, and I'm thinking maybe its when you SELL the house that the new buyer has to pay taxes on the appraised value.

You ought to thank the appraiser then. Lower appraisal means less property tax.

No offense to the owner of the car but I didn't find that impressive at all.