JMortensen

The point about the searching is that the more questions get asked the harder it is to actually use a search to answer your question. So if you ask a question for the Nth time you're doing a disservice to anyone who tries to search. You apparently haven't been around too long, but start counting threads that say "I searched but all I found were threads telling me to search" and the problem gets worse as more people don't search. There is an incredible amount of information here, and people who know don't always want to repeat themselves. The search function could work better, to be sure. But to not use it is compounding the issue. If you have seen an old thread that makes a point that you take issue with, then revive that thread. The person who may wrote the original thread may not even be here anymore, but the argument can continue anyway.

FWIW I have two sets of scalloped 240Z hubs on ebay right now, 1 with long studs and one with stock length studs. http://motors.search.ebay.com/_W0QQsassZsellszparts

Wait a minute... seems to me it was 1.625 for the BZ 3099 IIRC...

BZ 3099, you added a 0. I just sectioned some struts to fit these about a year ago. I thought it was 1.5". Could be remembering wrong, but I thought it was 1.5" for the BZ 3099 and 2" for the GTi struts.

I think a very similar thread came upbefore and somebody said that there was no difference at all. IIRC it had to do with an ebay auction where someone thought they got the wrong struts, because the number was for the 240 and they had a 280 or vice versa. Basically the same thing you're talking about. The conclusion at that time was that they are the same strut, just with a different sticker on it. You can search for that thread, but it was a while back, maybe a year and a half...

Not sure on the answer to your question, but I can tell you that when I originally bought struts for my Z about 10 years ago the rears were the front struts with a 2" spacer on the bottom. No reason you couldn't do the same.

I've heard of several of these things being put together, haven't ever seen one in person, and haven't heard it discussed since the early 90's. Apparently gives the full lockup of the clutch with the shifting of the automatic. Was mainly a drag racing thing IIRC.

http://forums.hybridz.org/search.php?searchid=165977 http://forums.hybridz.org/search.php?searchid=165979

If you can spin it and it doesn't slide in or out, then the flange is bent. It would take something pretty severe to bend the shaft where it is supported by the wheel bearings (not to mention it would quickly kill the wheel bearings. The flange is exposed to all kinds of stuff like parallel parking and backing into the curb, etc.

I would forget the tube chassis. Too much hassle and not DIY for most people. I'd see if you can find a body shop with a chassis jig. Basically they can tweak the strut tower back in place. Then you could reinforce it with something like a PDK strut tower brace setup that is braced in multiple directions. That would probably still be stronger than stock, and then you don't need to figure out how to attach the fenders, etc. Glad to hear you aren't selling it. That really would have been a waste.

I had this problem with a front hub and was considering turning the hub. Ended up just buying another set of hubs. I suppose you'd have to remove the stub axle and the lugs to turn it though, and by that point the machine work would probably cost more than another stub axle... Interesting idea about turning the rotor on the car, but that doesn't take care of the fact that the wheel isn't going to turn straight.

Try http://www.wolfcreekracing.com. I'm pretty sure the Mikuni 44 stacks will fit right on the Weber 45's. Stacks are definitely worth it. Don't get stacks that are so long that it restricts the airflow though. If your air filter is 3" deep I wouldn't go more than 1.5" on the stack, because if they are too long it becomes such a convoluted path for the air to get into the stack that you're better off without them.

Welcome. Use the SEARCH function and then read for about a week. You think your mind was blown when you saw the Z in Dallas, it will really be blown when you see just how far people have gone and how meticulous the documentation for a lot of these project cars is! Great people and huge amounts of knowledge are here to help you, but you need to help yourself first by doing some reseach with the search function. One thing you're doing wrong straight off the bat is posting about V8 engines in the Nissan 6 cylinder forum. This is probably the last forum you want to be looking in on this site.

My experience was at a race track, but it started with a sudden, noticeable loss of power, exhaust note went totally flat and car sounded like it was farting, pulled into the pits and stopped and opened hood, car idled progressively worse until it finally died. Waited an hour, jumped in the car and it fired right up and ran great. It only happened once and it was 105º that day.

JEGS had a mail in rebate as of a couple weeks ago it expired. You may want to check their site and see if they have another rebate offer going. I got mine for $17, at least it will be $17 when the refund check shows up. $67 was the price without the refund...

Plus the stock battery placement in a Z is pretty good anway. A little higher than preferred, but offsets some of the driver's weight nicely. A better relocation IMO is the one the Cary talked about and I think he had some pics too. The inner fender liner was cut and changed so that the battery sat in the stock location, but right above the frame rail instead of right under the hood. So basically it just got moved down a foot.

The sway bar mount holes are in front of the halfshafts, so if you have a rear mount then there is a clearance issue, and with a front mounted bar there is not. At least that's the way it looks from Terry's pictures: http://www.fototime.com/ftweb/bin/ft.dll/detailfs?userid={7DC317B0-8EDB-4B2E-A837-F708D07C9769}&ndx=36&slideshow=0&AlbumId={17E71651-3EF8-4704-9954-22956DF10FCB}&GroupId={3B8751D4-D564-4405-8017-F14E1CDA9AF0}&screenheight=768 So what was the issue with shortening the halfshafts Nullbound? Why wouldn't that work for your car?

Sounds kinda familiar! Check my post in this safety thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=103166 Glad nobody got hurt.

Others have shortened the end links. Have you given any thought to just shortening them?

Hunting idle can also be caused by a dirty throttle body. If it doesn't have any vacuum leaks pull the boot off the throttle body, open it up and clean the area where the butterfly closes with carb cleaner.

That is so funny Alex. I just found this Family Guy clip and I was going to post about it. I saw the original episode and was dying laughing, then I found the clip online and I was crying I laughed so hard... http://www.alldumb.com/item/12706/

Not the first time I've been called an aberration...

Just to offset Tim's statement I got married when I was 22, we had been dating for 5 years at that point, and I am still VERY happily married today a couple months after our 8 year anniversary. Most of my single friends are MISERABLE and tell me about these skeezer ho bags they bring home from the bars and wish they could be like me. Oh, I've also gotten laid about 5000% more than all my single friends too. Something about having her sleep in the same bed lends itself to banging... Better make sure she doesn't see this post!!! All that said she never asked me to sell the Z because she knows I never will.