JMortensen

Dale is right. It's the reaction disk.

One more thing Mike. I'd go big on the monoball then use a spacer to fit the strut. The stock 240Z strut would take a 10mm (I think) monoball, but I sure wouldn't trust a tiny 10mm monoball to handle the loads at the top of the strut. 5/8" is what most (all?) of the aftermarket plates for Datsuns use. I wouldn't go smaller than that, so basically it boils down to a question of whether your sleeves that fit in the monoball to take up the space go from metric OD to metric ID or whether they are SAE OD and metric ID. I'd just stick with SAE stuff to keep costs down and use a 5/8" or if you want bigger and stronger a 3/4" monoball, but that's just me...

I won't ever allow the govt to put a GPS in my vehicle. Bad enough my new GMC truck has OnStar. I'm sure that even if my subscription lapses GM can still find my truck whenever they want. Maybe I should put a lead plug in where the antenna goes when the subscription runs out... They are already using OnStar and other GPS devices to determine fault in accidents, they used it in the Scott Peterson case to figure out where he had been in the days after the murder, we had that post about the insurance company installing GPS into cars and offering discounts if you were a "good" driver... Scary stuff. Just remember, it's all being done for your "safety"

Mike, I haven't heard any mention of camber plates yet, but that is basically what you're making. There really isn't a lot to the camber plates that are available. Look at AZC's, it is really close to what you're describing, with the weld in piece of steel, etc. I know installing my Ground Control "roadrace" plates my car lost ~1.5" of ride height. With respect to Terry's idea about 1/4" piece of rubber, I can say that with a reasonable spring rate and Illuminas on 1 I don't feel that they are excessively harsh for street use without any insulators at all. If you were running 400 in/lb springs with Konis might be a different story...

Yes, that would work.

Your ZX has the later style shifter. Here's my suggestion: go to the junkyard. Get a Nissan truck shifter out of any 70's or 80's Nissan truck. The truck shifter is WAY too long for a Z, so install it in the Z, mark off how much to cut off to make it comfortable. Pull it back out, cut off with cut off wheel (hacksaw would work here too I suppose). Install a simple MOMO type shift knob. If you have a press you can bend it too if you need, but it's probably not necessary. The trucks have a very long shifter so they have to have a shorter throw, otherwise you'd have an extremely long throw on the end of the 2' tall shifter. When you cut it down and install into a Z, the throw is about as short as you would want to go. Any shorter and it would be very difficult to tell what gear you were in IMO. I bought my last shifter from a jy for $5.

Check the head. If it is a P79 it will have flat tops. If it is an N47 then it won't.

Both of these statements are wrong IME. How many emulsion tube choices do you have for Mikunis??? 3? OA, 8, and OB (and I don't think OB fits in the smaller carbs, but I could be wrong on that one). How many choices do you have for Webers? 10? 20? Webers are more tunable, even if you only consider high rpm tunability. As to the mains and airs controlling 95% of the fuel curve I've found that the pilot jet has a much bigger effect than is stated in any of the books I've read and is making a difference up to about 3500 or 4000 rpm on my car. As to the narrow band criticism, if that's your experience fine. I know my stance on NB vs WB is not the most popular, but I have my own experience to back it up. I took the advice of a friend and installed a NB. It helped enormously. Several guys I know have now had their NB on the dyno and had a chance to check it against the WB. They've all had the same results: the NB was accurate compared to the WB, and it is always a shock to the dyno operator as well. I know the NB is not AS accurate, but that doesn't mean it is useless as you hear so often. The people who told you that NB is useless are probably the same people that want to sell you a WB for $300. My Bosch non heated one wire O2 was $30, my voltmeter $6, and I had some wire laying around to connect the 2. I made more progress in 3 weeks with the NB installed than I had in a couple months trying to read plugs. Jake, yes you could do that, but if you have the same jetting in every carb then you can just run one O2 and have 1/6th the equipment to buy. Plus I don't think you can run them right up next to the flange, and getting 6 sensors onto the primaries down by the collectors is going to be hard to do. Again I think the amount of hp you're going to free up by tuning each cylinder individually is going to be fairly negligable unless you're really trying to squeeze EVERY LAST HP OUT, in which case you probably shouldn't be using carburetors at all.

While tuning per cylinder is possible, I know of no one who has actually done it. 99.999999999999% of people running triples run the same jets in all 6 barrels totally eliminating the need to try and figure out how #4 should be jetted vs #2 and so on. Even with much more accurate FI I know of only one person who has each cylinder tuned individually, and that is John Coffey. To most of us that last 1/2 horsepower just isn't worth it. Don't put your A/F sensor in the intake Wade. It goes into the exhaust and measures either the temperature of the exhaust gasses (EGT) or the oxygen in the exhaust (O2). I used a narrowband O2 sensor which cost me $30 hooked up to a voltmeter which was another $6 to figure out what was going on. If you want to make it easy, and you're cheap like me, you can get an A/F meter from Summit Racing and install that. Wideband O2 is expensive. Much more accurate, but much more expensive. Again, how finely tuned do you need to be? You might want to read up on Mikunis and Webers before you get too far into this. There is some good info in the "How to Modify Your Nissan Datsun OHC Engine" and there are numerous books on Webers that you can use to get an idea of what you're up against. Mikunis are easier to tune since they only have 4 sets of jets, where Webers have something like 8 or 10 per barrel. The downside is that the Mikunis can't be fine tuned like the Webers.

The ultimate non rice muffler IMO is the Dynomax Super Turbo. No frills, decent performance and sounds good. $29.49 from JC Whitney. No resonator, not stainless or polished, just works. You can hear mine if you go to Albums and download my little powerslide video. Of course, some of that noise is the Mikunis' sucking... 8)

The turbo pump is larger and provides more volume. There are comp springs you can buy if you need more pressure, but that is generally not necessary unless you're running a big oil cooler and remote filters or something like that. If your pump lost its prime you can take it off and pack it with vaseline then put it back on and that should provide enough suction to get the oil up out of the pan again. Put it on TDC #1 so that if you drop the distributor shaft out you can find #1 again.

I guess you've already tried removing the paint from the strut and honing the tube...

Tilton is great if you can find one. Fidanza is good. Centerforce is too heavy. AZC is scary thin although I haven't had any problems with mine in 5 or 6 years of using it. Whatever you go with, have it balanced before you put it on the car.

Hmm... should I move into the mansion that's paid for, or should I stick it out in the duplex.

You'd get a huge bump from some 44 or 45 triples in all likelihood. I know I did, and I know Dan Baldwin did. He's putting down 255 whp in his 3.1, and I'm putting down ~240 from my 2.8. You'd be looking at $1500 probably in carbs, jets, and tuning time. I swear my 44 Mikunis were worth a good 40 hp over my previous setup with headwork, cam, port matched manifold and rebuilt SU's with K&Ns and the stock airhorns inside the K&N's. 40 hp makes a big difference. RB can easily make 2 times the power of your stroker with triples, but it's going to require some pretty hefty fabrication, and last time I checked people were saying budget $10K for the swap. I never looked into it that closely so I don't know how much of that is the cost of the motor itself.

Interesting quote. Looks like I have no heart. I wonder if that goes with his other quote: Looks like I might have some learning yet to do. As far as the union goes, to me that was always just one more group who took a little cut of my paycheck. I'm telling you though, life is a lot better when you don't think you need your big badass friend the union standing behind you when you're negotiating with the boss. Nobody likes intimidation, employers or employees.

It was like 110 hp and 120 ft lbs. If you want I can dig for it, but that is pretty close. In the example, take the 470/3.9 = 120.51 ft lbs. I think a lot of the problem he had was that it was literally the first time the operator had used this dyno. He was a friend of the engine builder, and when the engine was done my friend called the machinist and he said, "I know a guy who just got a dyno" and it kinda went from there.

At the rear hubs. This was one of those dynos where you take the wheels off and bolt the 2 stands to the rear hubs. The car has a 3.90 rear end so when we factored that in everything looked fine. Those numbers (115 and 470) aren't the actual numbers, but it was something really close to that. I guess it was a brand new dyno and it was actually the first time they had a car on it, so the guy wasn't quite sure what he was doing. It really didn't matter to my friend, because he just wanted the wideband O2 readings to get his carbs jetted correctly, which he was able to do.

Thank you SHO-Z! Good info there. I ended up trading them to a guy who thought they were motorcycle or jet ski carbs. This whole deal worked out really good for me between the ones I kept, the ones I traded, and the ones I'm getting back in trade. Thanks again ZR8ED!

If you don't like noise keep the stock insulators and on the bushings go rubber, maybe poly, not G machine. That's the first time I've heard of the LSD chattering when it gets hot. Add more additive until it goes away or switch oils. I use SWEPCO 201 with no additive and when it starts to make noise I change the oil, which is usually ~10K. Now that I've shimmed the crap out of it I'll probably need additive also.

JC Whitney has a couple options: pile or loop and original or covers all the diamond vinyl spots. I got the pile setup that covered everything. I had an upholstery guy install it. He said it was an A- in his opinion. I had to have one thing fixed though. After about a week of driving with the kit in, I had the throttle stuck WOT several times. I went back and the guy added a little corner where the floor and the firewall met down by the pedals and that cured the problem. I think http://www.classicdatsun.com has really authentic factory kits.

Gabe is right. My friend dynoed his 510 recently and they didn't calculate out the rear gears, so his power was 115 or whatever and torque was 470 or something like that.

Better yet, buy some reloading equipment. Side note, last time I bought ammo in CA they took my name and DL#... I wonder what that was for???

Theoretically you should pay the SAME as any other $15K car. Since I haven't been driving my car I got classic car insurance, so I'm currently paying $120/year. I think before that it was $6-700/year. Insurance seems to be cheaper in Seattle than the valley. I would expect probably $1200/year for me if I moved back to LA. When I first got insurance I went and got an appraisal on the car and then went around to every insurance company I could and tried to get it insured for agreed value. The only ones who would do it were State Farm surprisingly. I showed them the appraisal and gave them a list of what I had done to the car and they submitted it to their underwriters. It was pretty easy. Of course at the time I signed up for life ins, homeowners ins, and 3 cars with them, so maybe they had a little incentive to deal with me...

Right. Insurance does cover HPDE's (High Performance Driving Events) because they are considered driver's training and I'm sure there are other situations insurance might cover under the right circumstances. What's funny is when I insured my Z through State Farm I particularly told them that I autocrossed the car and then insured it for an agreed value of $15K. Didn't bother them at all...