JMortensen

Do you have any idea what his car weighed? I've heard claims of 350 hp out of the old school GTU 2.4 engines, if you figure a car weight of 2000 lbs, then that means he's getting about 330 hp to the wheels. Of course he still had to shift... and maybe the car was lighter too. The whole thing is not unbelievable, but it would help to have seen it in person...

You learn something new every day. Thanks again Steve.

Hmmm... I don't have a FSM. Guess I'll have to look under a Max or an auto ZX one day... Thanks for trying Steve.

Despite the cost of a new gearset, it is SO MUCH EASIER to put ring gear bolt spacers on and not have to mess with setting up the differential again. Usually, not always but usually, you don't even have to reset the backlash when you swap the LSD carrier into an open diff. Change gears and now your buying all new bearings, setting pinion depth and preload, backlash, and carrier bearing preload. Not worth the hassle to get out of having spacers IMO.

So all the HALFSHAFTS are the same. The flanges that slide into the diff are different, but they all bolt up to the halfshafts just fine. That's what I thought, but every once in a while you find out what you thought was wrong...

260's are a yoke type? Whaa??? I thought every Datsun halfshaft from 240Z to 280ZX was the same, until you get into the CV shafts, which are yoke on one end and flange on the other. Have I just never seen a 260 shaft???

On my PC it works with Netscape but not with IE FWIW.

I'm with Rufus. My wife turned me off of pretty much all of those shows. We were watching Monster Garage and Jessie was bitching about the project and my wife turns to me and says: "I can't believe you're watching this little bitch whine about how he isn't getting his way! AGAIN!!!" Ever since then I turn one of these things on and all I can see is a bunch of whiny babies bitching and moaning about every little thing. Like the American Chopper guy... doesn't matter that the whiny baby is 6'5" and 280 lbs, he's still a whiny baby. The only one I watch anymore is Overhaulin, and that's because I like seeing the owner so happy at the end. But I agree with Rufus about the hosts and their stupid ass remarks in general. Can't forget to mention the forerunner of all these shows, Junkyard Wars. Way back when the British lady was hosting that was a hell of a show. Haven't seen it lately...

The bolts thread into the ring gear, so you'd have to drill out the holes then tap new threads. I suppose that is possible, but I always just assumed that it would be expensive and hard to do. Probably cheaper at that point to buy a new ring and pinion from Nissan with 12mm holes

Oh, sorry. The sig link is kind of a joke, so that people look at it and it is the search screen. Since my answer was so short it kinda looks like I'm telling you to look at the link, but really it is just my signature. Dry sump motors don't blow the dipstick out though, so the answer to your original question is no.

No it can't.

Usually it just shuts the spark off completely. Not aware of what happens on the tach. Maybe it jumps around, maybe it just goes straight to 0. I think ZR8ED was having this problem recently. Maybe he can chime in...

6AL has a rev limiter, and it runs ~$180. Check the usual Summit, Jegs, etc. Datsunlover is working on Canadian dollars or something.... Why don't you just shift earlier? If you have a stock cam you can't be making power anywhere near 8K like your other post says. With a stock cam most people are pushing to get the thing past 6K. Your other post says you revved it to 8K??? Either your tach is dead or you haven't figured out that shifting at extremely high rpms isn't the fastest way unless you have a REALLY built motor or both.

MORE OCTANE. I thought it was weird that you could run 92 with 11.5:1 compression. I'm running ~11:1 and I need about 95 octane to keep from pinging. Search the web for "octane booster home brew" which is basically going to be a mix of Tolulene or Xylene which you can get from the paint store and ATF and mineral spirits. Or just get some 100 octane AV gas from the local airport and mix 50/50 with 92. Or just buy some race gas and mix that with the 92. I've done all three, my car really likes the AV gas for some reason. I've been thinking about your pointer. I think when you took the discs out you f'ed up the alignment of the degree wheel and the distributor shaft. This is my suggestion of how to fix (assuming you can't put it back the way it was and figure out how it was meant to be used in the first place): 1. Find TDC #1. Use a pen or a welding rod--not a pencil or anything else that might break off in the chamber for whatever reason--you slip or something dumb like that. I once managed to use a dial indicator thru the spark plug hole but it was a machinist's dial indicator with a very long plunger, and a regular one won't work. Use a dial indicator if possible, much more accurate. Make sure you get to the middle of the dead area, there should be a few degrees where your pen doesn't move. 2. Aim the center of the rotor right at the #1 terminal on the cap (as close as you can). 3. Spin the degree wheel until it registers 0* straight up. 4. Figure out a mark on the clamp that you can use to aim the distributor. If there isn't a good one, use a chisel to make one. I still think there should be one on there that isn't 5* wide. 5. Time to ~35*BTDC at 3000 rpm. I don't know if this would be 35* or 325* on your degree wheel. I would think that it would be 35*. 6. Check timing at idle just for kicks, should be somewhere in the 15-20 degree range. This won't be dead on accurate, but it should be fairly close. You might want to get some other opinions too. I'm sure Drax240z, John Coffey or some of the other L6 guys around here might have some useful suggestions for you. Oh, and get a timing light. $20 from Harbor Freight, if you want the one with digital advance your talking ~$35.

There is no rev limiter. Your tach is probably bad, I seriously doubt you could get to 8K with the stock valve springs.

You have to splice into the distributor wires to run the MSD. Your problem certainly sounds like the module though. I've bought several ZX distributors with the module for $50. Despite the rash of bad modules here lately, they really are pretty bulletproof. A new module from Nissan is like $150 IIRC.

ECM maybe? I think its on the fenderwell on the 76, then they went to the one right on the distributor on the ZX. Typical symptoms are, you drive it, the module heats up and stops functioning. Let it sit for a while, car fires back up just fine, drive again for a while then it shuts off again.

http://www.auburngear.com/aftermarket/faq/#q3 That's bizarre. I've heard from many people over the years that if you put FORD friction modifier in it will make an LSD more aggressive. I always thought that was BS. When I worked for Randy's R&P, I was told that it was all the same stuff, GM, Ford, Chrysler, makes no difference at all. We sold Ford stuff because it was the cheapest. I believe Randys, and I KNOW that it is used to reduce chatter, but maybe it doesn't actually reduce friction, just stiction, assuming that's even possible. Anyone who has driven a clutch style posi with no additive then added the friction modifier can tell you that it makes a big difference and that it reduces chatter which to me always implied that friction was being reduced. Maybe it has some other effect in transmissions that I'm not aware of.

Take a look here: http://www.betamotorsports.com/benchracing/index.html and click on R200 handling issues. If you have an early 260 I think you'd have this problem, if you have the later body style 260 then I think you're OK. I'm one of the people who made the argument that the R200 shafts were shorter, and now I think I was wrong. I've measured every shaft I have, and come up with the same measurements John has on his website there.

Well I've had a GMC Sierra 1500 5.3 for about 7000 miles now and I love it. So far, the only complaint was a squeaky door panel. Fires right up on cold mornings, tons of power, shifts good, brakes are great, especially compared to the older front disk rear drum setup on the older trucks. I also have a 93 Toyota P/U that has been to hell and back. It was my first autocrosser and has some interesting suspension under it (I never placed out of the top third in the field). This vehicle has held up wonderfully in every respect except the engine. First problem was the timing chain. I replaced it at 60K because it was loose, then it broke the 2nd chain after about 40K more miles. My sis-in-law drove it for a while and a piece of the timing chain guide broke off and got into the oil pump and it lost oil pressure. The whole front of the motor was replaced, but now it was getting loud. Started pinging on hills and burning lots of oil, so I replaced the engine with the cheapest engine I could get. That was a bad idea. The valve seats on #3 fell out of the head, and the #3 intake valve guide was only finger tight in the head. So I replaced the head again. Now it runs OK, but still not what she once was. A lot of the problems I've had with my Toy came from trying to race the thing, and despite the engine troubles the rest of the truck has been flawless. Sadly, every one of my friends with a 3.0 4Runner has had the dreaded headgasket failure, and I understand Toyota no longer covers those under warranty. I've been told by various people that the newer 3.3 or 3.5 (can't remember which it is) also has head gasket issues, but all I can say for sure is that all of my friends and relatives have the 3.0 and every one of them has had problems.

The main thing about the caster is that you can't be binding the front control arm bushings. Stock caster in a Z is about 3 degrees. Get too far over or under 3 degrees and you'll bind the bushings, which is not good. The more caster the better from a handling perspective. I'm running 5 degrees and I had to fix my fenders because my 250/45/15 slicks rubbed FWIW. With a taller tire you can't run as much. Running a smaller tire would help, or trim the fenders. You really want to keep the control arm bushings from binding though, so if the control arm bushings are looking good then trim the fenders would be my suggestion.

Wasn't there a move a couple years ago to completely disband the FCC? What a friggin waste of money. I agree with you Mike, but I really have to wonder if that kind of legislation will get through. I'm doubting it. Certainly for those who did vote GOP this is something that a would justify a letter to your Republican Congressman reminding him that you voted for Republicans on the basis of less govt, not more morals.

Am I wrong in saying that the FCC can only make rules for broadcast entertainment? So only for CBS, NBC, ABC, FOX(?) and the radio basically was my understanding, which explains why Comedy Central can show Bigger, Longer, and Uncut in pure uncensored form. I thought the rule was that if you PAY for it then you are accepting the content... I'm more pissed about the radio than the Big 4 as you call them. I never watch the shiza on those TV channels anyway. The radio is developing its own alternative outlets with the satellite radio and all that. Let the regulated channels dwindle and die, it's not like the Big 4 are just going to sit there and go down in flames. As people move to cable for realistic entertainment, you'll see more of the entertainment shows on channels like CNBC, CABC, CCBS, etc, and then the FCC can go shove it. I HOPE the next big move is towards a TV station that you pay for that then shows NO commercials. Damn, it's getting out of control with the freakin commercials...

Is it just me or is it a little retarded to paint the block without putting an oil filter on? I'd get all that paint out of the oil filter area before you run it.