-
Posts
13738 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
65
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Everything posted by JMortensen
-
Why are you guys READING this stuff if it bugs you so much? Nobody is making you read it...
-
That search box doesn't work. Try the one in between the FAQ and Memberlist links at the top of this page. My understanding is that the 4 speed is the same one that came in the early Z's. Kinda crappy, with crappy shift linkage. I'm with the others, use the 5 speed that comes with the SR. It would be a lot easier to adapt the driveshaft than to adapt the bellhousing IMO.
-
True enough, but the Jehovah's Witnesses have predicted the second coming and Armageddon something like 7 or 8 times now. Jim Jones and all of his followers drank their Kool-Aid. You've got the Hale-Bopp guys CUTTING THEIR NUTS OFF and killing themselves in their Nikes. Through a friend I actually met a guy who bought land in Arizona believing that Nostradamus's prophecies would come true and CA would fall into the ocean, leaving him with ocean front property. I think it is an irrational part of human nature to think that the END IS NEAR, and it seems to be a pretty universal thing througout history. You were aware that just like 2000, on Dec 31, 999 people also thought Armaggedon was upon them, right? The problem with the conspiracy theorists is that they are very good at making connections. They can weave a tale that has you believing their crap at the end. "Evidence" abounds, and can be convincing if you aren't very skeptical. I was listening to one skeptic who was talking about the Bible Code, and he was saying if you looked you could find a pattern, and interpret a meaning, in the number of streetlights you find on particular streets in particular alignments, etc. All I'm saying is read more about conspiracy theories, look around you and see what is going on, and then judge for yourself what is true and what is false.
-
I'm sorry Bastaad, I really didn't mean to offend you. Seriously though, start looking around and you'll find all sorts of religious conspiracy theories, and a lot of them come from the Socialists. Note that socialists tend to suppress religion and communists outright ban it. I read about the first half of that webpage, then just glanced at the titles for the rest of it, and the first half was very similar to a lot of the conspiracy theory stuff I've read elsewhere. I kinda got into this when I went to the Post Office about a year ago and there was a LaRouche booth outside. I talked to the guy for a while and bought some stuff, read it and thought it was crap. About a year later I was listening to a Soundgarden song "New Damage". The line "A New World Order, it's new damage done..." piqued my interest and I went a searching on the web for "New World Order" and found that there is a LOT of crossover between all of these theories. This might not go over too well with any fundamentalists here, but Christian fundamentalists aren't very good at being fundamentalists. http://www.snopes.com/politics/religion/drlaura.asp Just read the letter to Dr. Laura. If nothing else, it is HILARIOUS and points out how not fundamental Christian fundamentalists are. Fanatics of ANY stripe are dangerous. The real question is do the fundamentalist fanatics have the pull with Bush that the website suggests. Bush is not afraid to use his executive powers, I think we can all agree, and I think if he were of the mindset that is described in that website that we would know it, because it would be plainly obvious. I personally haven't seen it, but then I haven't seen him act like a Satanist or an Illuminati or a Knight Templar or any of this other conspiracy stuff either.
-
Bastaad are you normally this gullible? I mean, look at the address!!! commonsense/armaggedon According to this theory he is a overzealous crusader, but according to Kevin's he's a Satanist... who is right here??? I am a firm agnostic, but I'm getting pretty tired of people using Bush's religious convictions to "prove" weird conspiracy theories about his intentions. I suggest you start looking at the Socialist websites for some more insight into this. The more I look at them, the more I see correlations between your commonsense/armaggedon site and Kevin's Bush is a Satanist Illuminati/LaRouche/the Jews secretly own the US sites, and the Socialists' websites. New World Order, Illuminati, Skull and Bones, its all the same conspiracy theory crap.
-
Deal Gone Sour - Not All 'Hybriders' Have Code of Ethics
JMortensen replied to 240Z2NV's topic in Non Tech Board
I think it is fair to expect that the parts are correct, but there is also a point at which we all have to realize that we're buying from a person. Not a business, not a Z expert, just a person. With that in mind it is important to CHECK WHAT YOU BOUGHT and make sure it is right. And yes, I would hold AZC or Modern Motorsports or MSA or VB to a higher standard. It increasingly looks as though these were actually the right parts, just with the wrong sticker on them. When I sold my struts to my friend, I didn't check the part numbers on the struts to makes sure they were 240Z struts. I did exactly what Ivan did. I pulled them out of a 240, and assumed they were for a 240. I knew they would fit a ZX, so I sold them to him. I don't think that was unreasonable when Ivan did it either. So the other issue is condition. It doesn't matter a bit if the outside of the strut is scratched. If 2402NV wants new parts he should buy new parts. Going to Tokico to try and warranty the struts is also the wrong thing to do. Look at their warranty: http://www.tokicogasshocks.com/warranty.html It clearly states that it is not transferrable. So that is not a legitimate beef either. So far I can see only that the sticker on the strut had the wrong number, and the shocks were scratched on the body, which is a cosmetic flaw on a part of the car which is not visible. -
Take one of your fittings to the auto parts store. Match it up. It's that easy. When I was redoing a couple of my lines and installing a prop valve I bought 4 or 5 brake lines that already had flares on either end and just cut the tube to fit and re-flared one end. Someone else was doing this a couple months back and couldn't find fittings locally, but I think that was in TX. They were on the shelf in every auto parts store that I looked for them in CA.
-
Valvetrain noise has me baffled, am I just being too picky?
JMortensen replied to a topic in 6 Cylinder Z Forums
I got an answer!!! Get that bigger cam you've been talking about. Get new rockers or have yours resurfaced. You'll need new lash pads anyhow to go with the cam. Problem should be solved, right??? -
Thanks Bastaad. If the end of the vacuum hose stays under the brake fluid, then you don't need to close the bleeder between pumps.
-
Deal Gone Sour - Not All 'Hybriders' Have Code of Ethics
JMortensen replied to 240Z2NV's topic in Non Tech Board
Here's my $.02, and I would like to point out that I only know what's been said here, which admittedly is not the whole story: I just sold a set of front 240Z struts to a friend who is using them in 280ZX struts as we speak. They will fit just fine. Sectioning doesn't make any sense for tire clearance. All you need to do is cut the old spring perch off and weld the new perch on, sectioning does not come into the picture at all. As an entrepreneur who owns a mail order business I would have to say that there is no circumstance that I can think of in which I would allow any customer to return a product to me after 11 months. Customers have an obligation to look at what they buy and make sure that it is correct or not damaged. Likewise in person to person transactions. My personal opinion is that it is unreasonable to expect Ivan to be responsible for your satisfaction at this point. A month or two, OK. Almost a year later, not OK. As Forrest points out Ivan has no way of knowing what has happened to those parts in the last eleven months. I hate to see this happen here. I've sold and bought parts from a number of people here and had nothing but good results. Of course it hasn't been a year since a number of those sales and purchases took place, so maybe some of those people might be coming back saying that there was something wrong with what I sold to them. I sure hope that doesn't happen... -
Mack, I'm glad you're happy with your new engine, sounds like a screamer. I do have some concerns about your post, and please correct me when you think I'm wrong. 1. You CAN install the N47 valves in the P47 head by just cutting the seats to fit the N47 valve head, but you can also do it the way I did on my E31, by putting a larger seat in the head and porting the runner to match. The bigger valve in the P47 would flow a little better, but having the larger seat and port would do more. 2. Unshrouding my valves took out 4 or 5cc IIRC on my E31. Not sure how much you took out on your head, but I'm guessing more than 1 cc. I suppose this is going to vary on who does the work and how aggressive they are with it. I thought I took a lot out, but I don't have anything to compare against. I also eyebrowed the block, which might have a tiny tiny effect too. Just for comparison, the P79 shaved .080 has about a 46 cc chamber according to this site: http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/head.html So if you or your machinist was as aggressive as I was, you might end up with just about the same chamber volume as the shaved P90. 3. If you shave a P90 .080 and use the N47 valves, you don't have to mess with the lash pads. You do need to get cam tower shims. Last time I got a price on them they were ~$20 for a set, and that set was .015" thick. You could theoretically stack 6 sets of those, or perhaps find some others that were thicker to start. I didn't look for different thicknesses much at the time because I didn't need to. 4. The benefits of the P90 is that there is less work to do to it. The compression isn't as high to start with. Unshrouding the valves isn't necessary due to the fact that it already comes with a chamber properly shaped for the larger intake valve (there might be something to be gained here anyway, but it isn't a neccessity). Larger seats and intake ports. The only machine work necessary is the shaving of the head. I think what you have done is very similar in the end result to the shaved P90 setup. The differences are that you have smaller runners, and that you might have a 2 or 3 cc smaller chamber.
-
http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQgotopageZ1QQsassZragiconeQQsorecordsperpageZ50QQsosortorderZ1QQsosortpropertyZ1 This guy has some interesting things on ebay...
-
Help! my 240z wont go pass4000RPM!!
JMortensen replied to Jonas240z's topic in Trouble Shooting / General Engine
I once chased a problem like this for a few weeks only to finally figure out that I had SEVERAL bad spark plugs. How often does that happen? This Z had been sitting for several years and I just bought it from the original owner. Same basic thing, wouldn't go past about 4000 rpm. I tried distributors, coils, spark plug wires, you name it, and it was the spark plugs... They looked BRAND NEW, so I didn't even think to try them... Definitely sounds like an ignition thing to me. In reading the original post again I see you've got some Bosch+4 plugs. I would only use Bosch plugs on a European car. IME Bosch plugs work great on Volvos and Porsches. My experience with Bosch on jap cars has been less than stellar. When I worked at a Volvo dealer they referred to NGK's as NoGoodKind. They couldn't believe that I would use crappy NGKs on my autox car. I know this sounds like superstitious nonsense but there is something to it. Stick with jap plugs for jap cars, Euro plugs for Euro cars. Try some basic NGKs. It's cheap and might just be the problem. -
Aux, you don't think the hat gets hot? I've had my brakes so hot I couldn't touch the wheels!!! You are right though, definitely a very bad idea to do a session then come in and pull the ebrake.
-
Here's a link that might help. GREAT LSD info, I've never looked too much at the rest of the site. http://www.gordon-glasgow.org/tech.asp
-
You can get a 2' length of vacuum hose and an old Gatorade bottle for $.50 and get the same effect. Just put a little brake fluid in the bottom of the bottle and stick the hose under the surface of the fluid. Then hook the other end up to your bleeder, and use it just like you had speed bleeders on there. If you're really snazzy you can make a hook out of a wire coat hanger so that you can hang the bleeder bottle from the suspension.
-
Sounds like you want Bush's privatized Social Security. Well, we just elected him again, so you might just get it.
-
Yep. You called it Mike! And I got my MARGIN. No more "stole the election" or "Fox News gave him the election" or "Supreme Court decided" or "brother gave him the presidency". Thank god.
-
Individual Retirement Account That's what we have in place of giving all our money to the govt so that they can give it back to us in the form of socialized everything...
-
2mm headgasket is a bad idea IMO, search on "quench" to find out why. You'd be better off doing a shaved P90 and using a standard gasket, plus you wouldn't have to pay near as much to get the head shaved as you would to have the larger seats installed. 460 cam is not much better than stock IMO. I ran my .490/280 with SU's and it idled a little lopey but had plenty of grunt and better top end. Carbs still limited it A LOT. Switched to triples and could slam against the rev limiter instead of touching the rev limiter.
-
The best part about what you wrote was that you and your father understood your love for one another. That makes all the difference.
-
OK thanks, I stand corrected. I thought the 240 engines were allowed 9.5 because that was stock + 1mm overbore. I didn't know you could mill the head to get the compression on a 280 engine. Still think with a cam and the extra point compression and all it should be fairly easy to beat the ITS motor. That stock cam sucks. When I was deciding to change mine I read so many stories of "no bottom end" or "don't go too big" etc that I was really afraid to change it. Going .490/280 on my cam made a nice difference on the SU's, and IMO is really the minimum necessary for triples.
-
So I'm doin a little dance right now!!!
JMortensen replied to MYRON's topic in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board
Well I'm only warning you because I used to work for Randy's R&P and used to sell LOTS of diff parts to F body guys who had broken their 7.5's. 27 spline axles, ring gear SMALLER than an R200. I think the R200 might be a better bet than the 7.5. Don't get confused by "10 bolt" either. There is the smaller one 7.5 or 7.625 used in the Camaro and S10, and the larger one 8.5 or 8.6 used in the Caprice and trucks. The bigger one is a lot stronger, but still has c-clip axles. The only thing worse than c-clip axles are c-clip eliminators BTW. Just check it out before they start narrowing it. Do a little searching on the web for Camaro axles and see what kind of stuff you find. -
Sprung puck clutch disks don't make any sense to me. The whole idea of the pucks is to have the MOST aggressive engagement possible. Then you put springs in there which are going to supposedly limit the chattering. From personal experience I can say that with my ~230whp NA engine I've replaced clutch disks because the springs were loose. This happens because the springs get overworked. I don't drag race, so in my case this is due to shifting hard on a road course with slicks. Putting springs on a puck clutch is just asking for the springs to fail IMO. Especially since most of you turbo guys are drag racing. Strangely I have to admit that to date I haven't heard anyone say that they've had the springs come out of a puck clutch disk. I would say get an aggressive pp and a mild clutch disk. The pp's available should be strong enough to clamp down a stock disk hard enough to hold down LOTS of power. The puck disks eat up everything, so IMO they should be the LAST RESORT. When you have the super aggressive pp and the clutch still slips, then get the puck disk. You might have to replace the disk a little more because the springs go bad, but if you put the puck disk in you'll be replacing disk, pp, and flywheel at about the same interval.
-
So I'm doin a little dance right now!!!
JMortensen replied to MYRON's topic in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board
That TA has a 7.5 diff in it, right??? I'd say forget about the 7.5 inch rear axle and get something decent under there like a Moser GM 12 bolt or a Ford 8.8 or 9". That 7.5 is a hunk o crap and all the money you'll put into it to get it narrowed could be used to buy a custom diff. The Moser 12 bolt is a good rear axle with 9" housing ends and bolt in axles (no more c-clips) and you can get 33 or 35 spline axles. Whatever length you want, I think the Moser axles come double drilled with Ford and Chevy bolt patterns. Ford 9" has pinion angle issues, but I think there are a few successful installations here. The 8.8 would be similar to the 12 bolt but I haven't seen any bolt in axle upgrades (I'm sure they're out there though). Congrats on the engine/tranny! That is a sweet deal.