JMortensen

Gabe, you ever read about Andersonville when you studied up on the Civil War? And the South was fighting to subjugate an entire race... moral supremacy... I guess I don't want any of that if that's what its called. Back to the subject of the thread I think John Coffey nailed it. It's not really torture, it's just another way for the rest of the world to demonize the US and our foreign policy. You want to talk torture, how about what Russia, Germany, France, and some of our own US oil companies were doing to the Iraqi people with the Oil for Food crap. There's your torture.

I didn't think that any of the 200SX's came with LSD. Have you received the carrier yet? That would be one more Nissan legend verified. As to your lube question you can use any regular lube if you use a tube of LSD additive. Additives are all the same, regardless if they say Chrysler, Ford, GM, etc on the tube. If you want to go spiffy on the lube you can use synthetic, I'm sure some of our Amsoil reps will chime in. I run SWEPCO 201 in mine. No additive necessary. SWEPCO is a popular gear lube for Porsches, and you can find it fairly easily in German parts houses, it's also very popular with farmers for their equipment FWIW...

Mine were made by modifying some AFCO 3/4 pieces off of a circle track car (Pinto I think). The machinist who made mine modified the roundy-round pieces, used a swaged aluminum turnbuckle, and a 3/4 rod end on the other end. He turned some aluminum cups to fit where the bushings go in the TC bucket, and then had a kind of clevis end that bolts into the TC bucket which attaches to the 3/4 rod end. He did great work, but it was expensive. I think I paid close to $300 for the TC rods. I remember being pretty surprised when I saw Mike's prices for his stuff the first time. Oh well, I guess I missed out on that one. The stock TC rods are just about the perfect size to just run a die down for 5/8, so you're right about that. With 5/8 rods, you could conceivably cut the TC rod, run LH and RH threads down the rod on both halves, then use a 5/8" turnbuckle in the middle. You could leave the bushing in the back or run a rod end. When I tried to do exactly this and run a die down the TC rods, I found that all 4 of the TC rods I had were bent and the die jammed up. The project got shelved for a while. Later having seen a number of TC rods fail I wanted to run a rod end in back, and the guy who made rods was an aftermarket Mustang suspension and chassis guy. He said run 5/8 on the control arms (which he also made for me) and 3/4 on the TC rods. I trusted his judgement then, and I'm glad I did. These parts have held up well to track days and autoxes with slicks, as well as 40K of daily driving miles. I got the most expensive rod ends I could get with chrome balls and teflon liners, and I haven't had to replace any of them yet.

DIS is the best, huge coil dwell time makes for a much better spark, even if it is only 1 spark. Electramotive is the only one I've seen up close, and the problem with it is that you need to make a custom pulley and mount the trigger for the crank. I've seen probably 10 of these running on cars, and 3 of these cars had problems with the sensor touching the trigger wheel at high rpm. The bracket to mount the sensor has to be BURLY to prevent it from vibrating and hitting. Basically it's a bunch more hassle, and it's expensive, so IMO should be left as one of the last things you do. Also for a street car the DIS systems burn up spark plug wires really fast with their 90,000 volt sparks, so you're replacing them quite a bit more frequently.

Flat top and P79 gets you 8.5:1 IIRC. Use a 1mm headgasket and you will bump that up to 8.7. 1mm = .040, and stock headgasket thickness is .050 or somewhere right around there IIRC, so it doesn't have a big effect on compression. The 8.5 and 8.7 come from the Lengine program, so that's not relying on my faulty memory. After running flat tops and an E31 I can say that you have to do A LOT of work to the E31 to make it worthwhile (installing bigger valves, unshrouding them, etc). Much better idea is to get the P79 or P90 and shave the head .080 then shim the cam towers up equally. That gets you a better chamber shape than the E31, with the big valves and all that good stuff, and you don't need to do as much work. Search for P79 or P90 if you're interested in that setup, I personally think its a better idea than the E31.

IMHO 5/8 is fine for control arms, but for TC rods 3/4 is better. I'm pretty sure that every other heims jointed front control arm I've seen is 5/8.

The turbo pump is the high volume pump. Add the high pressure springs and you've got the Comp pump. Just in case you were going to buy a new one, I think AZC has about the best deal. That's where I got mine. http://www.arizonazcar.com/oilpump.html

Right Aux. I worked at a Porsche shop and we had the HF spring compressors (now THOSE are preloaded springs). We applied anti-seize to the threads EVERY time we used them. Never replaced the tool in the year and a half or so that I worked there.

Well don't take my advice on the spring compressor, but seriously consider taking it on swinging the control arms down and not removing them from the car. It will honestly save you HOURS, and you can hook your compressor up while the strut is hanging out.

I don't think so Dan. The MR2 thread at the top of the strut is big. Like 14mm IIRC. They do not have a D shape. The gland nut was also the same IIRC. I don't know what the GTI threaded end looks like. Maybe you had MR2 and now you have GTI stuff???

No, although I believe in a 280 you need a 1" spacer.

Use a stock 240 front cartridge in the rear and section 2". If you want to be really really careful get the cartridge first and measure, but I'm 99.9999999999999999999% sure it is 2". I did mine a couple months ago and this is what I remember doing, but I used the MR2 rears in the front, so I remember sectioning the front 1.5" and the rear 2".

Me: "Hey, me!!! Stop screwing around on the internet!" Me: "Screw me. I can't tell me what to do." Me: "Remember me, I'm the boss." Me: "Am I threatening me?" Me: "Damn straight. Now get off the internet and do some work...NOW!" Me: "This is BS. I quit." Me: "Please don't quit. I know this business wouldn't function without me." Me: "Fine. I'll stay, but hybridz is a condition of my continued employment with me." Me: "Agreed." Me: "Now get the hell out of my office." Me: "Whose office???" Me: "Fine. I win. It's my office." Ah, the joys of being the boss and the only employee. Sometimes you gotta argue with yourself just to keep you in line...

I ran my SU's with the coolant passages bypassed for years and it never caused me any problems.

Go here: http://www.betamotorsports.com/products/index.html and click on Stuff for Sale, then click on Sunbelt 320 hp Nissan 3L engine. Very impressive. Wish I had the $$$...

Just wanted to make sure you saw this. Your local auto parts store probably has these on the shelf and they run ~$20... http://hybridz.org/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=31967

Call me stupid but I've pulled apart 3 or 4 sets of stock Z struts with no spring compressor. Just aimed it away from me and hit it with an impact gun. Haven't been hurt by one yet (not even close). The stock 240Z stuff is either sagged out or wasn't that compressed to begin with but I've never see the top hat go more than about 5 feet away. I never put the stock stuff back on so I never have to worry about having a spring compressor to reassemble. As far as not removing the struts from the car, all you need to do is disconnect the brake lines and sway bars and in the rear disconnect the halfshafts and then zip off the 3 nuts on top of the strut towers and you can pull down on the struts and they'll lean out of the fenders. You can use your spring compressor right there if you're the cautious type, or you can just hit that center nut with the impact and let the strut tops fly!!! disclaimer--I've never had any problems not using a spring compressor. You can try my method at your own risk...

I can say with absolute certainty that you don't have a bad power valve or accelerator pump. I'd suggest trying different weight oils in the carburetors. A lot depends on the carbs themselves. Mine ran great with ATF or Marvel Mystery Oil. Very thin worked great. Tried that in a friend's Z and the thing sputtered all over the place. She needed 20 weight oil in hers. If you haven't pulled the bells off and cleaned the pistons you should do so and dump the old oil out of the top of the pistons. Then you can try your new oil and see if that helps. If you don't have the Ztherapy video, it is cheap and informative. I haven't run SU's for about 5 years, so maybe someone with more recent experience will jump in to help too.

Why not just use the stock intake manifold (maybe port it a bit) and run an aftermarket computer? I haven't looked into this too far, but that would be my best suggestion for building on a budget. Something like a Megasquirt N Spark or something, then all you need is a custom header for the exhaust and whatever sensors are necessary for the intake. BTW are you SURE that you have 45 mm Webers with 32mm venturis? You measured the holes on the MANIFOLD side of the carburetors, right??? The carb throat has a bell shape to it and the holes are larger on the air horn side than the intake manifold side.

Read the complaint to find out what the specific problem was: http://www.thesmokinggun.com/archive/1124041declar1.html If you look at Statement of Fact 40 it says that the following were prohibited: a. Excerpts from the "Frame of Government of Pennsylvania" by William Penn b. Excerpts from the Declaration of Independence c. Excerpts from various state constitutions d. A handout entitled "What Great Leaders Have Said About The Bible" e. "The Rights of Colonists" by Samuel Adams f. Excerpts from George Washington's journal g. Excerpts from John Adam's diary h. Excerpts from "The Principles of Natural Law" by Jean-Jaques Burlamaqui i. A handout entitled "Fact Sheet: Currency & Coins - History of "In God We Trust" As far as I can tell the only one of these that isn't a PRIMARY SOURCE is the Fact Sheet handout. We've got really serious problems when we turn away from learning history through primary sources because they aren't politically correct. Of course this is the statement of facts from one side only, so there may be more to learn about it, but I can't see ANY reason why ANY part of the Declaration of Independence should be off limits for study or discussion.

I saw the Nissan Motorsports 240SX from a couple years back at Buttonwillow and peeked underneath to find a quick change solid rear axle. Trans Am has solid rear axles. You can definitely make a solid axle handle. The only thing that weirds me out about the solid axle is the model he chose...57 Olds??? Wonder how hard it is to get parts for that one... Still, if I were in the market I'd look at that Z really hard. Looks pretty damn good on the surface.

I think he's talking ITB's, or individual throttle bodies like this: http://www.twminduction.com/ThrottleBody/ThrottleBody-FR.html The only thing similar between triples and throttle bodies is the intake manifold. Since you would have to make your own manifold, they would have absolutely nothing in common. You might want to try selling the webers to offset the cost of the ITBs if you really want to do this. Just as a reminder though, John Coffey doesn't have ITB's on his 320hp NA L series. I think with a properly sized and designed intake manifold the single throttle body isn't the restriction.

Apparently you can only polish a turd up to the A pillar...

MSD unit: http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=esearch.asp&N=110&Ntk=KeywordSearch&Ntt=msd+6&x=13&y=14 MSD coil: http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=esearch.asp&N=110&Ntk=KeywordSearch&Ntt=msd+blaster Crap, that didn't work. Well click on the first link and look down the page a little and find the MSD 6A or the MSD 6AL units and check em out. Then click on the second and look for the MSD Blaster II coil, and check it out.

Just wanted to clarify something... The MSD (Multiple Spark Discharge) 6 or 7 units fire three times up to 3000 rpm. After that it does the normal spark thing, but it does put out more voltage than the stock ignition system. These units run anywhere from $120 to ~$250. The MSD COIL is a high voltage coil, but does not get you three sparks. It just gives you a higher than stock voltage spark if used in a stock system. Also I would be shocked if the stock ignition system put out 50K volts. I would suspect 25,000 or 30,000 volts. Having been hit with both the stock system and the MSD, the MSD is DEFINITELY making a hotter spark. EDIT-- One more thing. The MSD unit will make a difference. On a stock system just changing to a higher voltage coil won't do much of anything at all. So do the MSD and the coil or don't bother would be my advice.