JMortensen

Do you have a rollcage? I welded a stud to that for a ground. Nice fresh metal tied in all over the chassis in my car...

Me too. Driving around and then reading plugs is worthless. You have to do a WOT run. I used to bring a ratchet with me and pull the plugs by the side of the road. Then I got an O2. If you really want to know what is happening in each cylinder, EGT will do that. I still think there is nothing to worry about.

Just put it on your floor jack next time. I have a bunch of friends who like to prove their manliness by rolling the trans onto their chest and then benching it in, but you can set it on the jack and get it done pretty easy. Good luck!

What kind of spring rates were you running, are you going to, etc?

I've got the same hatch bjhines does, from www.betamotorsports.com. We both bought FG, John has CF if you have the $$$ for it. His website says stock 240 hatch with glass is 49 lbs, this one is 15 and I think I recall that the Lexan is 2 lbs, so something like 32 lbs. Call it 30 after hardware and pins.

Their part number "LS 103-5" pan doesn't have kickouts. My pan doesn't either.

Kevko. They have a standard item 5" sump (same as LS2) and I just custom ordered a 4" sump which still holds 5 qts. $325 for the pan and $55 for the pickup. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/110966-please-post-photo-of-ls-oil-pan-protectionguarding/?p=1041243

It's easy enough to reroute the steering if you really want the header.

You need more than just shocks that screw into the strut housing; you have to have the correct amount of travel too. If you have a 6" travel strut and you lower it down to where you want the droop to be, you'll smack the car on the ground before you hit the bumpstop (at least my car would). The real answer here is to have the correct length shock made, but that's a very expensive option. Droop limiters might run you $50 in parts, and then you can keep the bumpstops at the right height and you can eliminate the extra 4" of droop on a really low Z.

Put an O2 sensor on it if you're worried. Plug reading is hard to do, and if you showed people those two plugs individually you'd probably get "that plug looks good" for both of them 9 out of 10 times.

It's ALIVE!!! Bringing this one back from the dead. I followed John's lead and did the angle on the window and I'm about ready to drill holes and bolt up the Lexan, but I have a problem. This car will be towed hundreds of miles in the rain, and I'm thinking I should do something to seal the Lexan to the hatch. First thought was foam weatherstripping. Bought some and it's the wrong stuff, too soft, compresses way too easily. I might try again at a different hardware store to see if there is something better to use. My other thought was running butyl tape around the edge. It looks like the weatherstrip needs to be about 3/8" thick to get the lexan flush, which is my goal. I don't see 3/8" thick butyl tape available, but I could probably double up the 1/4" round stuff and then suck it down with the screws. Any other ideas? Will also have to have some sort of removable window for the fronts. Anyone done front windows for gutted doors that would like to share?

Toe should stay the same, discounting bushing deflection and control arm twist. If you want the tires flat, you need to start with slight positive camber.

Pan came in. Looks good but the paint job sucks. Says it should have a 5 qt capacity, plus the remote filter, plus the 3 qt accusump I'll be running. I think I'll be OK.

Wrong throwout bearing sleeve? If you have a turbo pp, do you need a turbo sleeve? I seem to recall that zparts.com has a write up on this issue with pics and measurements of the different sleeves.

You're right; race tires are easy to find. Right now I have Hoosier FA rears on there, there are Avon and Goodyear and Yokohamas as well. There are bias ply tires for asphalt racers as well, but they're a little taller.

A little fender inspiration: http://www.speedhunters.com/2013/02/true-dedication-under-suzukis-s15/

Run your pilots 1 turn out. If you need more pilot, change the jet rather than adjusting the screws. There have been some pretty good threads on Mikuni tuning recently. Search and you'll find them.

That doesn't work on SU carbs, FWIW, but will work on dual webers, 4 barrels, or triples or anything with accelerator pumps. I once had a friendly rival jump in my car at an autox and pump the pedal about 50 times and then jump out and tell me he just flooded my engine. He was pretty shocked when I reached in and turned the key and it fired right up.

FYI guys, the guy who sold me my pan underquoted me. The pan and the pickup were correct, but he came up about $100 short on the fittings hoses, gasket and remote filter setup. Instead of $500, it was $620. I cancelled the fittings and hoses and kept the gasket and remote filter setup and the price went down to about $480. They were charging $25 per fitting and $40 for the -10 hose, so I think it's best to get that stuff somewhere else. My pan is shipping today.

I've got their header for my 99 Miata (was cheaper than replacing the stock manifold with pre-cat). You hear a lot of crap about OBX headers, but mine looks like a pretty nice piece. For the Miata they made a rough copy of the Jackson Racing header. Too bad they picked the Pacesetter for the Z.

Yeah, that sounds fair to me. $50 and I'll pay to ship.

I've got one that I put on ebay and it didn't sell. If you can't find one closer I'll ship it.

Hey thanks. Coincidentally, I had the same thought. I had refinished a bathroom a few years ago that had cracked and flaking textured drywall. I skimmed the whole bathroom and found the "mud" or "plaster" as we call it very easy to sand, so I bought a big bag of the 20 minute set stuff last week, thinking of doing exactly what you had done. Nice to hear that it works from someone who has done it first hand. Spent the last few days trimming the rears and glassing some recesses across the top of the rear flares. That is done, so now I need to turn my attention back to the fronts, or fix the wheel arches which I didn't take quite enough meat out of the first time around. Just because of my lack of skill with FG I think I'll probably end up cutting and welding the rear arches, but that's not going to take any time at all, so I'll be back into the FG thing soon, like it or not. Looked at the rules again and talked a bit with tube80z, and it seems apparent that I can push the area behind the front wheels in to the inner fender well, just as long as the wheel arch looks like the stock shape as viewed from the side. I had wanted to do this for a couple years as it makes better aerodynamic sense, and you see it on everything from Spec Racer Fords to ALMS cars, to Australian V8 Supercars. Of course this makes me want to do the flare differently. I might just do a shorter flare that follows the lines of the wheel arch more closely and then finish the rear of the fender mods later. I don't want to get too hung up on this, as I'd like to get the engine and transmission in, but I really need to make my splitter so that the air dam and fenders can match up to it, etc. That needs to work with a radiator duct. It is another order of operations nightmare.

Might try buying a whole transmission. Not like they're going for big bucks...

Just take a crap before you stage... In all seriousness though, I've lost 10 lbs in the last month and figure it won't hurt when autoxing.