rucus01

There are a couple of things you can do. One is you can wrap the headers with the heat wrap. This works reasonably well, but it will shorten the life of your headers as the trapped moisture will cause them to corrode over time. The other option is to make your own using plug wires with ceramic boots. I ended up going with a header wrap, standard boot plugs, and putting the plug heat shield stuff around the plug boot, and haven't had a problem since.

Those are 225/50R16. The reason I was asking is there is a little inside lip on them. If you trim them that will be gone unless I mold it back in. Matt

Is that smoke coming from the tires or is the car on fire? You might need a fire extinguisher

If he is reading 14 on his AFR it isnt that rich. What is the complete cam card read? What is the LSA etc.. What actual compression ratio are you at? Large cam motors do like a lot of timing at closed throttle conditions. The lower pressure and dirty mixture burns a lot slower and will need to be lit earlier. A hot cam will require a lot more fuel at idle because it simply requires moving more air to keep the engine running. Depending what the exact specs etc are on that cam you may have to just learn to deal with a rough idle and unburned fuel in the exhaust.

Whats your timing look like. At 10" vac how much timing do you have in ? Matt

How much vacuum are you pulling at idle? What is your AFR showing ? Matt

I have finaly gotten around to doing my YZ fender flares and seem to be have some fit issues. I mocked them up this afternoon and they seem to be to narrow even for my existing tires? Should I trim the edges here so they fit? Am I doing something wrong here ? Driver side

I can second that the R200 can take the abuse. My setup is similar in horsepower and probably makes a bit more torque. I am running an R200 with the OS Giken. I had it rebuilt with 3.15 gears. I dont have the CV conversion, I just had my half shafts rebuilt with heavy duty U-joints and they seem to be holding up. I love the OS Giken, best LSD I have ever driven. Matt

Those things are real popular with the corvette guys because of hood clearance. I have seen more than a few catch on fire after a backfire though.

I have one I might be willing to part with . Its already painted red and has a little love on one of the edges where ups handled it. I would let it go at a good price if you are interested.

If you open the cover you will see the ratio stamped on the ring gear. It will defined as a fraction.

I am about 6' and around 220. I fit fine in the narrow. I think they quote that it will fit a 38 inch waist.

It would be tough and I wouldnt want to try. The width at the base is just as a much a major obstacle as the width at the shoulder. I had to beat the transmission tunnel in signficantly to get the regular TRS to fit. I wouldnt think the wide is worth it unless you really need the width. I am not as slim as I use to be and I still fit fine in the narrow.

Since the base is narrower you should be able to mount it closer to the centerline of the car, and it should fit. I think it will be very close to the door though.

The 2 inches wider in the shoulder is going to make it a tough fit.

Here are some pictures of what it looks like. I will try and get a picture of the headroom and post up later. As you can see my next project is some floorboard repair.

I sent my diff to Devon at unitrax and had them install a set of these http://kameariusa.com/L6_r200.php They also installed a OS Giken LSD for me. Made a big difference.

I will try and get some pictures up this weekend.

I have a 77 and just got done installing the TRS into mine (literally yesterday). The stock brackets line up with the rear holes on the seat mount, and a set of unthreaded holes on the front seat mount. I guess they figured you would somehow put a nut and a washer through there to hold the seat on. When positioned on the stock seat mount the TRS sits way to high for comfort (I am 6' and with a thick haircut would be rubing the roof). There is only about 3 inches from the seat to the steering wheel. I removed both of the stock front seat mounts (not that bad about 3 hours work with a angle grinder and a die grinder). I replaced the front seat mounts by using 1" square tubing that is anchored by 1/4" steel plates welded to the transmission tunnel and the rocker panel. Under the 1" square tubing I used 1/4" steel plate to anchor to the floor. Once the bar is in place I welded some 1.5" pieces of 3/8 all thread to act as a mount for the seat in the front. I then cut the tabs off the corbeau sourced brackets and bolted them to the new seat mount, and the existing rear seat mount. I then trimmed the excess metal from the corbeau brackets (there were some misc ears and etc that werent used). Once you have the bracket trimmed you set it in the car ontop of the ears that you bolted in, tac weld it to hold geometry. Then unbolt it, put the bracket on the seat and test fit. I did this a total of about 4 times for each side until I go the fitment correct. You will find that on the drivers side you have to beat the crap out of that catalytic convertor hump to get the seat to fit, and you will want to get the sit as close to the transmission tunnel on both sides as possible. Once you get the fitment correct just remove the brackets from the seat, and burn them in good so the seat wont bust while you are going down the street. It was a decent amount of work but the seats do now fit properly in the car.

I would definetly be interested in tail light panels and the door skins.

Unitrax told me quaife isn't doing the warranty any more for units sold in the US. They are recommending the OS Giken now.

Yep they sure do. Its in my diff along with an OS Giken.

I ordered there 3.15 gear set for the r200. It was quite expensive but seems well built. I havent put many miles on the car yet since I put the diff back in, so the jury is still out.

I am actually working on putting the same flares on What rear rim is that you are running?

You know, that actually isnt all that far from my house....