240Z_Master

Sorry to say but 10k is a lot

When I first had my car, I didn't have knock sensors... so I put in a resistor or capacitor somewhere to eliminate the error code (and yes I still don't have knock sensors).

Word... thanks a lot... I figured as much since the car was running without it... now lets hope all the other wires i removed in today's clean up didn't affect my car's ability to run, lol

Alright, I was cleaning up some wiring, removing crap I don't need and what not... and was going through some plugs and noticed that my FICD (Fuel Idle Control Device?) was not hooked up... For those of you who don't remember I believe it's the purple plug with the yellow and black wire, not the brown plug for the AAC. [see photo for reference] Anyway, I am looking through my wiring diagram and pin outs and I cannot find where the damn wire goes back into the harness! On page EN-265 of the R33 FSM [see photo below], the FICD solenoid wire number 2 I believe is the yellow wire, and I am having a hard time tracing it back to the harness... I tried Pin 46, which is "HB05" aka Purple wire out of the ECU going towards the A/C system. Getting to the main point right here... So I don't even think I need this do I? Since the FICD pretty much helps compensate load of A/C, Power Steering etc... not really necessary on our application? Can I just cut the plug? Any help would be awesome! [Photo credit Crazyhazey33]

What company do you work for? Etc.. where you located? Pricing?

Maybe ask Nukabe Automotive in Chicago

The problem with Cusco, JIC, ApexI etc... is making sure the threaded sleeves fit the coilover (and some coilovers Tein etc.. don't have threaded bottoms on some applications)

Money is all something we don't have in times like this!

Money is all something we don't have in times like this!

So you still get the top hardware on the front of the S13's... when you order them and finally get them.. you need to take a picture of what you exactly get! Would help us all =)

What's included in this pricing?

Wow I'm behind the ball on this... ---> Hybrid-Z Stance yadda yadda

UPDATES FROM RECENT RESEARCH! Stance DIY Weld-on Damper Adaptor From what I was reading throughout the forums, I browsed the Stance website and noticed they now have a perch pair available for use with stance GR+ Series Dampers. Retail price is $229 vs the Serial Nine retail price of $260

Relays for sure will reduce the load (and give more current if wired properly) to your headlights. Also on a side note, I was an idiot and ordered only one headlamp housing from Rallylights, and ordered another one from Acme Parts, which was cheaper and faster then Rally Lights! http://www.acmejeepparts.com/products/97052_9001.htm I got this lightning quick, and compared it to the Rallylights box, exact same part number and everything. Tonight was the first night I actually drove with the lights, and I am happy with it so far, still debating on HIDs but for now, taking everyone's word of advice that these housings are the ****!

Also make sure that if you are going to run a Power FC, that you can change the settings via an FC Commander

I already bought allen head screws for these things way back when I changed out the headlights the first time! Screw you phillip screws! I was too lazy to go to the junkyard, but I guess I should... since most of the wheels are off, just cut the cord, inscrew the 4 screws and I should be able to pocket the little plastic pieces... One side is busted so I have no left to right adjustment on my passenger side. I'll keep an eye out for some old S30s, but lately they've become more and more rare.

Oh I never said that the British invented the motorcar by any means, I'm just saying countries/territories they had a large influence over during pre-motorcars times, and post-motorcars you notice a large influence... such as India, Australia, Hong Kong, and I even think Japan for that matter had a fascination for all things in the Western world during the mid to late 1800's. From what I remember the reason why the British had so much influence was due to their power on the seas and trade. Who knows, I'm not a history buff, or a culture buff, just my $0.02... Side note... is that why we drive cars on the right hand side of the road because we wanted to be anti-Brittain during the 1600's when the pilgrims left the UK?

Actually upon closer review of my old photo again, those two long plastic things are the adjustment holders that I need.

I actually took a wrong picture now that I think of it (this photo was in my archives)... regardless I should check the dude in Washington, but it's those hard plastic pieces where the screws screw into. Yeah I can't find a good picture of it until I take apart my headlights when my headlight gaskets come in... I didn't even know there were gaskets until I saw this... so I ordered new ones through Nissan, hope they can get em =)

I forgot the Power FC does have a menu option to choose which MAF you are using, I have one (but am currently using stock EMS)... The Power FC has one downfall is to have a really good tune on it, you'll need expensive software or someone to tune it. I think the availability of Nistune and people knowing how to use it might be a benefit.

Not really... just as long as you have the proper clutches, throw out bearings, etc... if it bolts up you're golden, just make sure the internal parts are all there. On second thought I can't remember if the RB25DET Neo's have a pull type clutch... Regardless, you just got to make sure you have the right clutch slaves and all the working parts.

You can't run it without something that modifies the signal

Just look at the intercooler piping

You don't have to do it... for me personally it's easier to work on the car, it shortens up the piping (better response)... for example changing spark plugs underneath the coil pack cover it's wayyyy wayyyy easier without the crossover manifold. Also you get some better clearances with the hood and what not... what it boils down to is how much you want to spend, and what you are happy with. My biggest reason to not doing the stock manifold was the stupid piping you would have to run if you wanted a cross flow intercooler