240Z_Master

This is great information... since I plugged my Autometer Tach and Tach Adapter... and the car went boom which seemed like a huge backfire then shutoff. I quickly unplugged the Tach adapter and now it runs... but now the car doesn't make power when boosting over 3lbs and above about 3.5K RPM. My car falls flat on it's face now when the boost gauge hits 3 lbs... anyone have any ideas? Could the tach adapter done something to the ECU on my RB25?

Tabs welded on.

I am pretty happy with these... I don't know how many times I've scraped the bumper, and there is not a crack. As far as the "floppyness" there is some, but I don't mind it.

It's a pretty common front chin spoiler... It's made by Xenon Polyurethane... http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/7AD1/50-1411 Ahh there it is!

By no means are these any motor money shots... but I was cruising around El Toro and came across some abandoned buildings on the old deregualated MCAS. Sorry the last one is dark, I'm photochopping it now. Enjoy!

It all depends... that's too general of a question to be answered correctly. And I know this is too general of an answer

I think you'll be jsut fine. 400HP with a huge turbo and some tuning is very obtainable. Especially if you're upgrading injectors and taking care of good fuel delivery.

I guess do it right and go SFI on everything. Maybe that's why I chose my setup the way it is.

Diff mount is cheap and easy to fix. Do it the right way... now if you're mustache bar bushings are bad... then those are a little more PITA. But not bad.

Looks good! I'm going to grab a new turbo, and when I do.. I'm goign to recirculate the wastegate... my car is too damn loud with it open!

IMHO, driving my RB25DET with a 9.5lb flywheel is pretty easy. I don't have a problem stalling out, or worrying about little things too much. In fact I'm always driving probably in a higher gear just to keep the noise levels down.

Also placed in a well designed housing such as the ECE or DOT spec housing lamps (as recommended by 240Hoke) really makes sense to me. I realized the Ebay drop in housings don't really do justice. Getting a good housing that is spec'd also helps the beam cutoff as to not distract other drivers as well. Examples of some E Code housings below... As you can see what a lot of the guys are referring to the step on one side is higher to illumiate pedestrians, street signs, and to not distract drivers. Making sure the correct lens (projector housings, or bulb housings) installed on the correct side according to your driving side (RHD or LHD) is also key to doing things the right way. LHD E-Code Housing RHD E-Code Housing

What really boggles me is everyone says HID without projectors is useless... I half agree and half disagree... From what I can see or observe... a HID D2S light bulb doesn't have the glare shield (which is why a projector is needed). And then there are HID D2R light bulbs that you can put into a propper housing (like a DOT or ECE) housing, which could possibly allow you to drop in HID's without projectors. My personal reason why you can do this is because it has the glare shield that allows the light to be blocked so it doesn't shine up (projectors have this shield/cover/step built in). Can anyone confirm this? These are just my observations. (This picture somewhat shows what I'm talking about)

BTW, Fidanza flywheels are SFI spec'd flywheels. And the thing weighs 9.5 lbs (at least the RB20 Fidanza flywheel that I'm using is 9.5 lbs!)

Good find! The thing I like about the ATI damper is the option to take off one of the pulleys for the A/C.

Don't shoot the messenger, I'm just saying what's out there =) Good luck on the search! Maybe just modify the stock one on a good lathe, and balance it out? I don't have the skills to do that, but if someone out there does... then by all means rock it!

BTW,... it's a harmonic balancer damper too. They make a 800HP version as well.

ATI Dampers... I'm using one on my car now.

Just curious how much does that upper piece weigh? It looks a bit heavy. But a great looking piece! Flow tested the bad boy? Q45 or Stock TB?

Quick question... would the drop in D2R lightbulbs and ballast be a good idea on the normal H4 housings? I'm still confused by this. I know the D2S bulbs are meant for projectors. No one has really cleared this up for me. I personally don't like the looks of projectors.. that's my opinion. So what I want to do in my car is... 1) Keep my H4 housing 2) Buy D2R lightbulbs and ballast 3) Plug in and go Advantages and disadvantages of doing this? EDIT: BTW my housings are 7" units that have H4 bulbs in them.

Yup exactly... RB20 Flywheel and a Z32 NA clutch. Click this link for some help... http://gripjunkies.larrychendesign.com/rb/9_mount/index.htm#Clutch%20Install BTW! A lot of the ACT Clutches are made by Daikin Klutch, which is the same company that imports/makes Exedy clutches. Look at the photos in my link for reference and part numbers.

For visual reference.