emeraldlion

Wait. If you are already at 11 in the 1/4, doesn't NHRA require solid rear axle once you're down in the 10 or somewhere therabouts.

That bottom emblem is of the 510, just can't remember where. I think it's on the trunk/rear panel.

I bought pre-flared lines at OReily auto. I am not sure if they have real long ones s I was doing the pre-dist block but I bet you can order them. They had the correct flare and nut. I think they were generic japanese brake lines.

If you have rebuilt brakes, or have done any mechanical/ wiring work. You can do the engine swaps with the help of this forum. Just takes some beer, room to work, and some tools.

I love seeing progress on new projects. Welcome to HBZ and great project. Your car is solid! Great find for the price IMO. Keep us updated.

You're not going to make it. You did receive an answer. The answer was you don't need our help. This is a TECHNICAL automotive forum. Your question was not technical, it was common sense. I am trying to help you. There is a world of GREAT information here but you are going to hit dead ends if you continue to post like this. If you think criticism is for women then I understand why you apparently think that an answer means someone drops the solution right into your lap spelled out letter by letter. You need to go read the forum posting FAQ and etiquette threads. You might be better off at zcars.com or ratsun.net.

I will tell you what else is amazing. With no prior experience working on chevy v8's I was able to take one drop it into a car it wasn't designed for, hooked up to a transmission I had no prior experience with, and wire it, supply it with fuel and spark, put on a v8 carb(no prior experience) and get it to fire and run on the first turn! It really was a miracle. Thank goodness I had this forum and the common sense to search and research. I may have asked a couple of empty headed questions, but I did not harp and continue on once I had received an answer. Suck it up and deal with your problems in life kid. You are not entitled to ANY amount of spoon feeding to reach resolution to your problems.

I would have to guess it's the difference b/w the 240 suspension and 280. I seem to find more people fitting 8 inch wide with 280's.

I would have to guess the difference is between 240 suspension and 280 suspension. I seem to see more people able to fit 8 inch wheels on the 280.

This link turned out to be only for the bearing. From what I have found the front/rear 240z insulator is the same thickness as front 280z. The rear 280z insulator is thicker.

Vibrant Performance 1792 - Vibrant Performance Bottle-Style Resonators. 12" 2.5 ID

Just had my exhaust done. 2.5 off of block huggers around trans dual resonators, 2-1 merge collector, 3 inch pipe to dynomax superturbo muffler in stock position. The exhaust is a bit subdued, but definitely v8. The exhaust shop apptly described it as "your grandma's lincoln meets nascar." No drone at all.

I think that is the aria speed car. Not sure if that kit is available.

Welcome to the board atomic! Any year Z is a good start. There is also lots of info on the chassis differences in the faq section. Just depends on overall goals for the car. Best of luck and kepp everyone in the loop with lost of photos. I didn't take as many as I should have and regret it.

Datz, I am not trying to be mean, but you are really starting to sound like a whiney little kid. This forum is not around to bottle feed you every little detail and step by step solution to your problem. You have all the pieces you need to fix your problem, now go fix it.

I didn't use oval tubing and I was looking back there today definitely limited with the 3" tubing. Oh well. It is roadworthy, but the tires are so dry rotted they won't pass inspection. I am going to have to get wheels/tires before I will pass safety inspection. Looking to go 15x7 with a low profile 45/50 series. I am actually going to give the chevette springs a try. they are 200lb springs, and I will need to cut them down to length. Maybe a 10% increase. Also trying to locate a stock 240z or front 280z strut insulator to drop the rear as well. Sorry I missed the car at C&C, church had a morning thing going on, glad to see it went well.

You don't really need any more information from us than you have already received. You need to start doing some more research and trouble shoot. If it is a MANUAL choke, it has to be operated MANUALLY via a cable. Start googling and doing some research. This has nothing to do with your swap, or your datsun, and everything to do with your carb. You have what you need now start doing some research/troubleshooting and fix it. You'll be more knowledgable and appreciative in the end if you dig for the solution yourself.

Sounds good Kevin. Congrats on hitting that job yourself. Looks like a good job. I ended up doing two resonators to the Y and a dynomax superturbo in the rear. Mine is much more subdued sounding, but definitely not stock.

If it is a manual choke, it is actuated via cable by the driver, and you will have to hook it up. If it is electric, you will have to hook a wire (+) source to it. If you have a wire confirmed with voltage, it may be adjusted incorrectly, or dead.

Kevin, don't know if you are goin to weld up your own exhaust, but I found a guy just north of Mckinney here and he did a great job on mine for what I thought was a reasonable price.

So the only exterior dimensions I could find on the 3.7 were not official. From pace performance a Lq4 truck engine(we know the trock intake is too tall) is 29" long, 24.7 W, and 28" tall. We know these engines fit with a shorter intake(ls). The 3.7L dimensions I found posted were 23" W, so width should work(non-turbo), 23"L,and 29" tall. It does look like a tall engine with the honkin' intake it has on top. If there were some other intake solution then possibly, or if you went with a tall cowl hood. I am not sure what kind of width the turbo's would have.

Kevin, I initially was rigging something up with a small agm in the passenger footwell against the firewall, but didn't like it and placed a full size agm battery behind passenger seat in front of toolbox. The passenger seat does not slide all the way back, but far enough to give ok legroom for me and I'm about 5"11. It took about 8-9 ft of battery cable, but it works. Battery is inside the cabin, but it's a sealed agm for now so I think it should be okay. I'm not at any sanctioned track events yet.

I am not sure I am following what you are suggesting. Right now the only unfused path is from alternator to battery, and starter. All of the red/white wires that supply body harness and engine harness are fused. Unless I am failing to see a path.

Doh!