emeraldlion

Everyone once in a while I see a zx that makes me want one, yours is in that group. Very nice!

Please browse through the faq techinical section at top of forum. With that said the suspension/chassis subforum has all the info you will need about strengthening the unibody to handle more power than most of us know how to use( with some obvious exceptions, gentlemen you know who you are). The fabrication subforum has plenty of info as well. I waited until I found someone who was going sbc to ls(thanks sunnyz) and bought 90% of the mounting stuff. Paid pennies for a th350 on craigslist, and if I counted up all the other odd bits and pieces sensors, nuts bolts, battery, I would say I have just under 2000 in my swap. It is now driving and on the road. I bought an engine for a few hundred bucks that is included in that price.

Looks like a one-off homemade job potentially. A version of the bre spook style, mounted on stock valance

16's definitely look good. There were some AWESOME wheels on craigslist listed the 10th. Guy must have sold 'em fast missed them.

I would be happy to take the stock valance off your hands. Pm me if you'd be interested.

While this is very sad news. Another Hybridz fan was born Thursday morning in a Dallas Hospital. Liam Henry Elder 7lb 20.5 inches. Automotive performance does owe much to Mr. Shelby, he will be remembered long after his passing

Any updates?

I thought with the foam that there was a full bladder, then the foam between the bladder and metal wall of cell. BTW that custom tank is bitchin'. That's the route I would go

I have to say, you have the best stance I have yet to see without coilovers. If you don't mind what spring/strut combo, I think I just found my setup.

Well, it looks great. I'm thinking of doing something similar still so it's good to see it fit so well

Turned out to be a pretty sweet setup fast! I really like the look overall, gives me a little hope for later down the road. Obviously had a custom carb hat made, do you think one of the spectre performance hats would have cleared? Also just to clarify you DID use the stock vortech mount but changed some of the holes in the mount?

He has to be running coilovers. He has great stance that I have yet to see with lowering springs. Wouldn't be the first time I have been proven wrong though.

If you don't have a multimeter I would buy a cheap one at harbor freight or walmart for 10-15 bucks. Check for voltage at the fuses, then at the connector. My first bet would be that you have corroded connections at the pigtails. You can remove the rubber plug from the back of the plastic connector and remove the push on connectors, try to clean them with some sandpaper or steel wool, then make sure they are not loose and try again.

Has anyone seen these or used them? They have applciations for 240z. Found this while looking into lowering options without coilovers. The isolator seems to be one area to gain a small amount of drop. The insulator on the website photo almost looks to flimsy. Thought I would check with everyone. http://www.nopi.com/dsp_part_detail.php?vnopinum=491+0051&vt=n&vmakeid=270&vpcid=491 Sorry about the missing link, waiting for baby has scrambled my brain. Due this Wednesday.

The shop also told me they might have my car for as much as a week. I suppose need to stop, just wanted to vent. Needless to say I am now looking for other options in the Dallas area.

I completely understand John, and I would expect that price at your level of expertise. This current shop I am toalking about doe not have your race proven experience and knowledge. Just a guy that does good welds and work for hot rods. No custom y pipe, he just quoted me a "y pipe 2.5 into 3". I did not go into it expecting a full custom exhaust for 500 bucks, but at the same time I wasn't expecting a 1900 quote on aluminized. I suppose if this hobby was cheap there wouldn't be so many of us learning to do DIY, but for the price I was quote I would expect a more thorough knowledge and background from the shop other than a few nice looking chevelle's and 32 fords.

There is a fairly local exhaust shop. Does custom exhaust. Only place I have foudn that will do mandrel, but does not bend their mandrel in house, just buys pre done and cuts it to fit. I asked for 2.5 inch with two flex pipes off headers, 2 resonators, a y-pipe, and single 3 inch after y pipe to a magnaflow muffler in stock position. I was quoted 2500 for stainless and 1800-1900 for aluminized. Shnickies! Is this right? I really do not have the skill yet to do this myself, but at this cost I may have to. Or switch to crush bent cheapo system. Their wasn't any custom tuning in this system, guy is not credentialed or work with race teams, he is just a custom exhaust guy. Anyone know somewhere in DFW that may be more reasonable? I am in Mckinney.

Mrolston, Do you have a rough idea of how much your shop wants for that one piece front end? May want one made as well.

that is the bulb side, I need the harness connector.

This just made quick work of fixing my low beam issue. I hope the admins see this and make palce it in the FAQ electrical section. Thank big phil, once less bald patch in my beard.

Have a bad connector at the harness for passenger headlight. Wondering what is best to replace this with?

Thanks Leon. I think I will replace it with an aftermarket unit if that is the case. this gives me the reason to pull it out and check it. Appreciate the input

So the wire I used to go to the neg terminal on the HEI already has a 10k ohm resistor in line. I had seen a the posts saying have a resistor in-line. I have a '78 280z. When I turn the car on the tach pegs 8k and stays. No bouncing or fluctuation. Wondering if I should remove the 10k ohm or place another 15k ohm in line to total 25. this is a double post, I posted this in electrical but no response in 3 days. Wanted to try this before going out and buying a super tach II

So I wired everyting up and she cranked first shot! That was exciting. Very few setbacks. Initial timing set well, and the current cam on the 283 chevy likes to idle smooth around 12-1300rpm. I suppose that is beside the point. Had to use a dwell meter because my tach wouldn't work. I know the JTR manual and the threads say to use a 15k ohm resistor in the blue wire, but the blue wire coming from my tach that I utilized already has a 10k ohm resistor in line. Do I need to switch, or add the extra 15k for 25k total? I have a 1978 280z manual that had air conditioning. With the current wire I am using, with the 10k resistor in-line, the tach pegs at 8k immediately and doesn't let off. No bouncing, no movement, just pegged. TIA

283 chevy. Went off without much of a hitch other than my tach wigged out and pegged at 8k. Yeah, send me a pm when you are ready to ditch the kidney beans, I am kinda into the retro look and won't be going bigger for a while.