emeraldlion

You either have a 327 gen I sbc, a vortech which mounts the same, or a gen III LSx which is the same as a ls1 swap. Your statement just shows you need to do some more searching. Ls1, ls2, ls3 Your 5.3 is the same, you just need the equipment from an ls1 or some mix and match pieces. It's been covered.

Thanks for the tip. Just looked at it and you're right. Oh well. I wasn't really thinking about the spring dimensions at the time. Was focusing on the "how could I make it work" aspect. Gotta remind myself to think in all dimensions sometimes.

f-body oil pan. I know this has been covered. You might want to check the FAQ section. Someone did a GREAT photo documented write-up on LS swaps. It would be to your benefit to check it out.

Guys, I read through the faq and as many of the archives as I could find. Sorry if I missed the post that covered this. I was wondering if there is any combination of shelf parts that could make the bolt in GC camber plates work with the stock strut/spring setup. From looking at the struts, and the plates, it seems doable, but not sure without custom machining etc. I don't really need full coilovers, but would like the caster/camber adjustment. From my readings the adjustable control arms don't seem to be the better solution. Thanks for the help.

He does come across a bit soap boxish. I can imagine lowered cars present a challenge, and that specific clientel that want something for nothing are frustrating. If that is the case, and he is that good, Shouldn't he be catering to a higher clientel that pays and does things right?

Beautiful! One of the anesthesia doctors I used to work with had a gt2rs, and I always kick myself for not taking him up on the drive offer. I love porsches. I have a automotive crush on ferdinand porsche.

Good start. Hope you are able to get the carbs straightened out.

So, I don't think that for my purposes I will be using full extent of coilovers. I don't really need them and I think tokico springs and struts for the 280z will be fine. My concern is future availability. Should I be concerned that if I keep this car, 15 years down the road I will not be able to get these?

2004-r is the same length as 6" tailshaft. If someone by chance had a 9" tailshaft it would not be. Mounting points are significantly different too, if you already had holes drilled for the 350 you would be drilling new holes.

The car blu posted is a 260/280. It would have had the thicker rear strut isolators. I believe the front isolators were same 240-280. If you switch to a front isolator on the rear shocks it gives you approx. .75 inch drop.

That is bitchin!

John, just want you to know that your v6 and ScottieGNZ swap are my v6 posterchild swaps. It just looks like it should be, especially with the FI. What was it that pushed you to the v8?

Speedo is a simple conversion cable from JTR, and the tach wiring is in the JTR manual. Like previously stated, go ahead and buy the manual. It is worth every penny. You might also download the FSM and an electrical diagram for your car. Check out this site http://www.atlanticz.ca/index.php/tech-tips.html

I would look at getting the inline 6 running well before attempting the whole v8 swap. Like NewZ said, please turn caps off first. Try searching the FAQ section and turbo sections. Sounds like the airflow meter could be bad or need adjusting, inappropriate fuel pressure, bad lines, all the above. Try to work the bugs out before running it too much. If you have a fuel issue and for some reason run into a lean situation it could make mean you would be swapping for that 350 sooner than you had hoped. If I had already had a turbo swapped car I probably would have stuck with the turbo 6. I was looking at a swap either way, and chose to go the sbc route.

Yeah, that was me. I saw your post here and checked craigslist, sent you the text. so you have everything running? My v8 is a 283 from a mild impala, only upgrades are 601 iron heads from a 305, performer intake manifold, edelbrock 500 carb, and some unknown cam. I doubt I'm that far off from your turbo setup power wise, maybe a little more torque, but if so not much. Got the engine for pretty dang cheap so I went with it.

****, that sucks. If that's the case I'll buy the xenon dam off you instead of the stock valance.

Welcome to hybridz tamo! This is a great community and has TONS of information and advice available. Best of luck with the new 240, keep us updated with pictures. I really like the whtie paint scheme as well, and I agree with you, the red accents are kinda cool.

Careful six, make sure you really want to pick this fight. No one is saying your car must sit at any height, to each their own. The point that is trying to be made here is that this is a performance site and the cars and individuals striving for this particular look cannot be after performance because the suspension geometry is actually not appropriate for performance. you are also trying to twist words. Yes most tend to avoid LARGE potholes, but if an s30 with coilovers and decent setups accidentaly go over a mild pothole, it is not as detrimental as it would be to this speedhunter car. You really need to get the big picture. No one is saying that this style is wrong. Just not in line with the performance orientation of this site. I kind of like the way the car looks, a little too low for my taste, and I can never condone stretched tires because it is unsafe, not sure how that fad caught on. Someone on this site that is not willing to admit that it is not an appropriate suspension setup for overall safety or performance should probably head over to ratsun or one of the other s30 sites.

I looked at the aerocatch, but the larger mechanism makes mounting a little more difficult.

Huh, didn't look close enough the first time. Never seen a compressor quite like that. Initially that angle looked like it was attached to the crank.

When I saw the picture of custom tank from OP I thought of that thread blu. The one thing I like about the tank posted by OP is the rearward slant that kind of conforms to the rear valance. I think 600 bucks for either tank is money well spent if you aren't doing any racing that requires a cell.

I would like to postulate that even though the owner of that car may drive it "on everyday streets" , I gaurantee he avoids EVERY speedbump and pothole, he approaches every dip/driveway at an angle, and goes out of his way to make sure he drives on the "easy" streets. I dare anyone to deny it strictly because the reality of the situation is that if he didn't his car would be torn to shreds. I would also like to thank RTz and the other moderators for the excellent job they do of maintaining the focus of this forum. I think it was very appropriate in suggesting that particular mindsets or attitudes are probably best suited for other forums. i very much appreciate when I don't have to sift through a thread because when I searched for camber it came up with someone who "slammed and stretched" because they think it looks cool.

That's a hideous swap. What the heck is on the front of that engine between fan and block?

Thanks for correcting, I was assuming pull force was the same, shows I'm not a physics guy. I was a little concerned about the safety issue so I will have to think of something for that. My car is not a daily though.

The full size quik-latch is to rich for my blood, but the mini's are affordable. The site says they fail at 150ft/lb. If you had one on each side of the hood, and had the stock moutns up front you think these would work? I ditched the stock latch and would like to run these as pins near the cowl. I would imagine that combined 300ft/lb holding would be plenty if use with the stock mounts up front. I have a stock hood so it is a little heavier. Thanks http://www.quik-latch.com/black-anodized-mini-quik-latch.html