emeraldlion

Are those 14x7 mags? Glad to see more progress. Mine fired up and made a trip around the block today

I think it mounts too far forward. The rear two cylinders are nixed, not the font two. This places front of engine in same place as v8 but minus the back two pulling trans much further forward. To get the good setback custom mounts must be used. Member John scott had a procharged 4.3. I think this is correct, but I am not 100%

The porsche emblem would get my vote as well. Elegant and a little more retro looking with the cursive

If I double the 21 to 42 that might put me just behind the transpan or right at the driveshaft, definitely a little more palatable. I am probably overthinking this because I don't have a super high performance engine and most likely won't. I really don't have an idea of rpm range unfortunately because I don't know what work was done to the engine. It is a 67 283 casting with 601 power pack heads, no idea on pistons or valves(I would assume stock), and unknown cam that has a significant lope. Edelbrock 500cfm out-of-box, with performer intake manifold, and HEI dist.

Lol, If that's the case my final merge would be directly underneath the oil pan

Yeah. Plenty of writeups on here. I got mine at a salvage yard. 1995 ford taurus . Get the two speed fan and make sure you get the harness side of the pigtail. You can make your own fan harness and relay set or buy one pre-done for about 60 bucks. I'll look at the business that did mine but it was an excellent harness. Fan pulls singificant amps but mounts pretty easy fits nicely and pulls 3500+ cfm on high. Member 280zcar has a pretty good write-up of his install and the harness he made using volvo relays/harness from salvage yard

That would make more sense. I really hadn't thought it was the l28 I was just reading and thinking 2 into 1. I tried to link to the specific article he linked but the link was dead.

Ford taurus two speed and the pre-done harness. Paid 50 bucks for the fan and 60 for the harness. It'll sufficiently cool a v8 with a stock radiator

So after reading through several topics on exhausts and 2-1 especially, I found JohnC recommending that the most appropriate placement of a 2-1 merge collector would be approximately 28-32 inches after exhaust valve. The primaries on my headers seem to have approx. 12 inch runners leaving me about 20 inches of down pipes before the merge. The problem I am seeing is this places my merge right underneath my converter/transpan. I am running a sbc with th350 in the jtr position "all the way back." Was planning on going with flex pipes from collectors 2.25" mandrel bent, running two resonators prior to merge and merging to single 3" back to a single borla xr1 at the back in stockish position. Just want to try and do it right the first time. Thanks for any help

There are a few people that have welded an open box into the fenderwell and dropped the battery down inside the box very similar to what you are suggesting. I doubt you would be able to drop a full size battery and run very wide wheel/tire combo without issues. I would search the body and fabrication subforums for something like "dropping battery" and "Fender battery"

Yeah, but I don't have any radio a/c or interior lights other than in the dash. I am still a little leary, but thought I would give it a try. I will let you know how it goes. The CCA are 220, CA are around 360 if I remember correctly. I have also seen some test slips from the battery being tested showing 400+ CCA. It seems to have held up well for some people. Chevy 283 with about 9.2:1 cr.

Thanks six. I will see how it goes. I paid 90 bucks shipped for this battery, measuring 6x6x3. Can't wait to see how it goes.

I have all relays and the maxifuse block inside the cabin. Maybe 5 inches of cable from battery to maxfisue block, and the rest is in the diagram. The reason I did this was to keep from running two cables from the battery, but if this will be detrimental in the long run I will run the starter cable straight from the battery. I have a small deka etc14l battery moutned in the passenger floorboard. I suppose it really makes no nevermind whether I run the cable to the block or straight from starter to battery, other than it creates two connections straight to the battery pos(+)

Agreed Tony D. That's the first thing I ask a seller when I am going to go look at a car. Please make sure the engine is cold when I arrive. There is no reason a seller shouldn't be willing to let you start a cold engine, unless it's 0* outside, and in that case, you should have bought a car when it was warmer.

Okay, Thanks ross.

Prety crappy picture but hopefully it gives you an idea.No fuse to the starter.

so after scrolling through several of other people's setups, I noticed that no one wired their maxifuse block like I did, and I am starting to get a little concerned. Maybe someone can clue me in as to whether or not my wiring is not appropriate before I try to fire it up. I have a scosche 4 fuse maxifuse block that has 3 inputs at the top for 2-4 gauge wires, and four out the bottom. I installed all the red-white wires appropriately to the bottom slots with appropriate fuses. For the three inputs at the top, I have one 4 gauge wire that goes to battery pos(+), one 4 gauge wire that coems from alternator output, and one 4 gauge wire that goes to the started solenoid (+). So if wiring it this way is NOT okay, can someone please explain to me what I have done wrong and why it is wrong to wire it that way? Thanks All

Wow! Looks like it was well worth the price the guys was asking.

Saw that car on craigslist, glad someone here got it. I was very tempted.

Not really sure what sort of feedback ou are looking for, but it is probably already posted here in the forum. CozyzCole I believe still runs a t350 behind his v8 swap. Couple of others as well I think. I have a 350 with a 9"tailshaft behind my 283, but it isn't driving yet. The general thought is that it is a bit much for highway type speed, meaning 60+. It is a good transmission though, and rebuilds are cheap. I have a 2004-r sitting in the garage for when I want to do the swap, but for know I got a deal on the transmission and an aluminum driveshaft already cut for a 350 9" so there you have it.

He doesn't want to go the speedhut route because he is trying to look original jdm. The summit link provided, or a cable-x box like you can buy at brokenkitty.com for v8 swaps is your best bet.

I believe that fron dam is the xenon piece that has been painted to accent the lower lip and ducts, I like the look.

Best of luck with the shell. Hope everything works out as planned. Hate that you hit the snag. You're right, there will ALWAYS be something. That's kind of the reason we are in this hobby though right? Hope you are back on the road quickly

That looks great! Any plans to make more for some hbz members? By the way, I have had dreams of floorboards that weren't as clean as yours.

^, Lol gollum. I was reading each entry thinking, why not just sit on a dfw area phone book?