A to Z

2-21-2022 UPDATE: Well, I managed to get a tad over 7 hours in today on the Z car. I pulled the headlights, and sanded the headlight scoops out. In the pic the left side if you look you can see I had to add some filler to the back lip, as it was missing. I had painted them and everything.....but you could see scratches through the paint, so I took them down and smoothed it out. Next, the tip of the hood had been repaired by a previous owner, and earlier I sanded it out and THOUGHT it would be good.....nope. You could see the clump of bondo through the paint, so I also sanded it and the hood across about 1 foot up....then used the new glaze. I then coated both dog legs and spots on both fenders at the bottom. Unlike the other stuff I have used, the glaze is ready to go FAST. It is awesome. It is runny, but so nice to work with....but with the hardener is in unforgiving.....like the can says, 2-3 minutes to get it on, then it's too late. Cool thing is 15 minutes you can sand! I blocked out the hood and got it good to go. then moved over to the driver's side and sanded out the left dogleg and the lower front fender area. On this side, I have it about 90% ready. The passenger (right) side is about ready for final paint! I will have to add a bit more to finish it up. Then I went over to the right side and got it all sanded and blocked out. A couple little spots on that side, but I am now SO CLOSE to 2K primer and final paint I can feel it. Oh, yeah, my 2K primer came in, made by spray max, 2 part so it is catalyzed paint. I took some pics. BTW, it is amazing the amount of dust sanding this stuff puts off....man oh man!

I got to see you at ZCON, at the hotel at night when you were loading the Z car on the trailer we talked for a few seconds..

Today I picked up some new Glaze. I was advised to get a glaze with hardener over the red spot putty. So I went ahead and bought this can, along with some 180 grit paper that was also recommended to block sand it out correctly. Both sides are all closed up and done....now it is just beautification being done....so taking a brake from the heavy grit paper and old fashioned Bondo Mud. A couple of mugs of Fat Tire is necessary to keep the motivation up after a shower to make the work acceptable to my old bones.

2-15-2022 UPDATE: Ok, so I got out to the garage, and sanded down the doglegs with my orbital and 60 grit and then used a sanding foam block at 80 grit to fine tune areas, and then cleaned up and filler primer coated the doglegs the rockers and lower front fenders. It's in pretty good shape, but I am finding that the Bondo "borders" are bleeding through the paint! So, I read online, that what is needed is a "2K primer" which is an epoxy (i.e. wear respirator!!) that REALLY fills things in and works well, so I suppose I will be heading that route, although I can also see that I will be needing to do a tad bit of filling with Glaze and light sandpaper on one of my sanding blocks to get it really smooth! Here are a few pics. 🙂

Thanks. I just want this one to turn out okay.

2-14-2021 UPDATE. More dogleg work and rockers. I decided to go after the passenger (right) side first, then went over to the left. On the right side, I was able to sand the Bondo out smooth, and then I prepped and sprayed the area with filler primer. It showed that the scars on the dog legs visible, So I added a layer of glaze, and then a couple little spots of filler where needed. On the bottom of the dog leg, , I sanded it down, and found I needed a tad bit more mud to get it just right, so I added some mud there again as well. On the left side, I sanded down the all metal and then added a bit of sheet metal on the wheel well inner edge to level it out, and then covered the area with another coat of All Metal Filler to get it as good as possible before adding a top coat of Bondo to get it perfect. The rest of the dogleg I covered with a coat of mud (Bondo). I then sanded out the rest of the rocker area, and found I needed a coat of mud on the bottom of the front fender, and a couple spots on the rocker. I just have to wait for things to dry now. I am attaching videos of it. 2.MOV3.MOV4.MOV5.MOV6.MOV7.MOV

NOW is the time to paint that exhaust manifold. VHT 1200 degree exhaust paint. I used their flat black on mine.

2-9-2022 UPDATE: Ok, so I went out to the garage again for a little bit....spent all my time on the Left/driver's side dogleg. I initially started to remove the bolts....but then realized, they added extra strength, so why take them out? I put the screws back in, and took my die grinder and ground all the screw heads down REAL thin. I also found out while doing it, that the heads got cherry hot, and when they were hot, I could smooth them out with the grinder! Then I used the grinder to go over the center patch area, which brough both sides of sheet metal down more flush. By doing this you are tapering both sides down, and the ends are real thin, but are supported by the sheet metal behind it. Then I started on repairing the wheel well edge again, grinding the bolts down flush. Using the Dremel as well as the die grinder I was able to get it real cleaned up. I then taped off the body line between the dogleg and the rocker panel and started applying All Metal Filler. once done, you pull the tape, and you have a nice clean line (see video). Now, once this is dry, I will use my orbital sander with 60 grit to smooth it all out, and then add Bondo. That will take at least 24 hours to dry. Any pin holes that show up after sanding will be filled with glaze and block sanded smooth. Feels good to see SOME progress. VERY time consuming, as every step almost is "wait 24 hours". I am used to making a lot of progress at a time, but this body work REALLY slows it down. Anyway here are a few pics and videos. 3.MOV 4.MOV 5.MOV

Thanks for the encouragement. Some things are fun, some aren't. bending and shaping that metal was very hard....or tiring....laying on my side hammering. Gave me a sore arm for a day. It was fun initially, but every step requires 24 hours to cure...sometimes longer as it's cold, so it takes longer for stuff to dry....too cold to paint, so my hope is to get it as far as I can with the cold weather. Then it will be easy painting. I have to redo the headlight buckets, as I can see scratch lines in the paint, and the tip of the hood, theh filler is showing through and needs to be blocked smooth. Other than that, it is ready for some white and clear. The frame rails have a few spots to patch up, then the body and paint are done. Soon, I will be back to doing the fun stuff (to me at least).

2-7-2022 UPDATE: Dogleg work again. The passenger side I sanded down smooth and added the layer of bondo to dry. Once dry it will be ready to be blocked and feathered down. On the driver's (left) side I went ahead and cut the patch panel to where I wanted it. I then held it up to the body and marked where I needed to cut to make ti fit correctly. Everything was going well until I looked at the bottom of the patch. All of the bends were off! I had to use tek screws and mount the piece, and then using a ball peen hammer, a 3/8' extension to beat on, and a screwdriver as well, I was able to form the piece a little at a time, screwing it down as I went. That was TOUGH! Once that was done, I removed the piece, painted it on the back side as well as painted the interior space with gloss black paint after cleaning it up a tad. I applied the bonding glue and re-attached the patch with the screws to hold it where it needed to be. Then I used a combination of JB Weld and All Metal Filler around the edges. It looks terrible, but once dry the screws will be removed and I can then sand it down, and get it ready for a thin coat of Bondo to be block sanded and feathered out. I attached a few pics and 2 videos. click the letters at the bottom of the last pic for the video's. Cheers! IMG_1781.MOVIMG_1783.MOV

2-6-2022 UPDATE: Prepping a bit for a work day on the Z hopefully tomorrow. A portion of the inner wheel well down near the dogleg on my drivers (left) side is a bit chewed up from rust.....to I used the dogleg to make a template, so that I can patch the spot.

2-3-2022 UPDATE: I got some orders in today. My Hung Vu Z car floormats with red Z, my left side dog leg from Mill Supply-Made in the USA, a Nissan factory valve cover gasket, and a Molotov Chrome paint pin in 4mm wide. Happy Happy!

1-31-2022 update. 55 degrees, nice day for Z car time. Both Doglegs.....still working on them. Small steps. Used some scrap sheet metal to bend up a patch for the hole in the driver's side (left) dogleg inner panel. I attached it and then used the Dremel to turn the bolt heads into more like rivets. Before installing I did paint inside the hole and on the inside of the patch with gloss black. I also went ahead an Used All Metal Filler to seal around the edges, and patch some holes. Doesn't look very good now, but after it's cured, I will clean it up and paint the area black to seal it up and then get on attaching the new outer dogleg sheet metal. On the passenger (right) side, I used my orbital sander with 60 grit discs and get it all down smooth, but found that there was one area that needed a bit more work, so I added more All Metal Filler to that area, and will have to wait for it to cure. I also tried some more work with the Glaze, but made the mistake of trying to work it before it was cured.......so I am going to let the whole thing sit for at least a day or so before I continue the small snail's pace forward. It's pretty tiring even holding the orbital sander upside down and pushing it up to sand down there. Anyhow, here are a few pics and some video to watch. Cheers! V1.MOVV2.MOVV3.MOV

I remove the rust with a Dremel into good metal, then fill the hole. Any rust hole only has cancer out a certain amount before the metal is good. When you use the Dremel.....the rusty metal present....it burns through it like butter, so fast! Then once you hit good steel, it slows WAY down. Small little rust holes usually get opened up on average 40-50% larger to get into the good metal. This is out of sight, out mind work, that once sealed up and repaired never sees the light of day again. Out the outside I will be installing an outer dogleg skin. Larger holes are patched with sheet metal, with a finish coat of "All Metal Filler", which is 80% metal and 20% resin. Does not shrink, does not crack....it is the modern version of using lead. It used to be that the only way to properly fix anything was to use a MIG welder. But, over the years, many composites and glues have become so good, that many manufacturers, including BMW, now bond body panels on....no more welding. "All Metal Filler"is 20% Resin. Resin is so tough, after 3000 years, The Pharaoh Tutankhamun had to be forcibly chipped out of his casket, as his body was stuck inside.....they poured around the outside of his body with black resin thereby gluing him inside......and after all those years, it was still rock hard. THEN, add 80% aluminum filings so small, that what you end up with is essentially "liquid metal". So, the rust is removed, the metal treated, and then sealed up.

All is proceeding well. "All-Metal" filler is a godsend. It is the modern equivalent of leading in a car! Bondo shrinks and leave air holes, whereas All metal leaves none, and it does not shrink ! It can be sanded and worked with 80 grit or stronger. I love the stuff. 80% aluminum filings, 20% resin. The Pharaoh Tutankhamun was buried 3500 years ago with resin in his final coffin. After all of these years, the resin was so hard that it required extensive chiseling to remove him. So yeah, Resin is TOUGH as hell. All Metal filler is "liquid metal". Don't like it? TOUGH.

My comrades in arms in China, are providing me with the ability to finish this car!

11-27-2022 UPDATE: So, I decided to deal with the winter weather and 25 degrees and went out to my unheated garage to work on my doglegs. The passenger side has been patched, and I put a coat of all metal filler over it, with the duct tape to hold it in place until dry. I found out on my own that the duct tape works great, in areas where gravity comes into play. I then went over and started on the Driver's (left) side. After cutting out a portion of the dog leg, I was able to use my Dremel, Craftsman 4.5" die grinder and brass wire attachment in my electric drill to get it started. I made a few video's and took some pics. Once the tape comes off and I sand it down, you will what I am talking about with the All Metal Filler on the right side. Now, I need to order a dogleg! Cheers! Click on the ones that say video to see it all! 2. Video #1.MOV3. video #2.MOV 5. video right.MOV 8. Video 2.MOV9. Video 3.MOV 12. Video 6.MOV 15. Video 8.MOV

Yeah.....I love the Z cars, but Rust and Datsuns go together like wine and cheese! Thanks for the kind words.

Thanks. I hope so. The "end" is in sight.

The video I mentioned above. Just click on "Video 1.MOV" : Video 1.MOV

1-17-2022 UPDATE. I finished the pillar emblem repainting and installed them. I then got my driver's door back together, lubricated both doors, and then put the driver's interior panel and associated bits back on. Next for them with be repainting the chrome strips with a Chrome paint pen. I then walked over to the right side and block sanded out the one dent in the right (passenger) door, and then went about the process of bolting the lower right fender down. The 2 broke off bolts were NOT going to be removed, and it was at that time I realized I can drill a hole next to each one and fasten the fender back down, so I went with that, but I found a previously unseen small rust hole behind the fender in the shell. So, after drilling the 2 holes to fasten the fender down, I used the Dremel to open up the rust hole to good metal, and will now have to patch it up before putting the lower fender back where it belongs. Lastly, I started the process of Dremel-ing out the small rust holes on the lower front dog leg on the right side. In doing so, it became obvious, I needed to cut a window to get in there and clean it all out. After cutting the window, I found MORE mice stuffing from yet another home! (unbelievable!!) I was able to reach in and pull most of it out, and then got it all with a long screwdriver. The use of the screwdriver opened up a few rust holes at the very bottom edge. I then was able to use the screwdriver and the newly discovered holes to get all of the built-up rust etc. in that area out (see video at the end). Using my die grinder and Dremel even more, I opened up the remaining holes to good metal, and was able to open up 2-3 holes at the very bottom that were inside the outer dogleg Sheetmetal , in the inner rocker structure. After a long time to going back and forth with screwdrivers, I was able to clean that out. After everything was all cleaned out, I was able to spray inside the whole cavity with some of my Loctite Rust Neutralizer. Next will be patching things back up. The same issue is also awaiting me on the other side. So, time for a few pics. That was a Monday! Cheers!

Thanks. I am trying. I picked these stickers up on eBay:

In the old days, you used to make a block out of a piece of wood to certain dimensions and stuff it under the upper timing chain gear to keep everything from moving when removing the head. I would recommend doing that. Free horsepower is to be gained by removing those probes from that exhaust manifold. Mine wouldn't come out, so with a Dremel I cleaned off the outside and make it flush like a bolt, and had them welded shut and ground down again.....now they just look like plugs. On the inside I again used my dremel and made what was left of the probes flush with the port. Below is some pics of what I did. The bottom 3 bolts where the mid pipe connects.....mine snapped off and after so many years, it necessitated having them redrilled and heli-coiled. A local machine shop did for me for $75 bucks U.S. Buy the best head gasket you can. Let's do this once. Do you have the funds and time to have the head worked by a Machine shop? Valve stem seals should be done, the old ones are bound to be cracked up. Minimum, a lapping of the valves is a good idea, but of course, hardened seats are what is really needed....no lead in the fuel starves the factory valve seats from the lubricant that leaded fuel was designed to offer. These engines are tough as nails, but the head is where wear can occur, especially if it never received regular valve lash adjustments. These old girls also need Zinc/ZDDP engine oil. Cheers!

Really enjoying your build. Keep up the good work. I really hope you don't find a cracked head or block. Wow....:( Joe

Cheers on the workman ship Noll...... absolutely impressive. Good show! THANK YOU so much for sharing this. Always nice to see this sort of thing.