A to Z

10-9-2022 UPDATE. Things have been busy. As you know, Nissan offered the 2.8 series 6 as a diesel as well. It has a longer stroked crank (83 versus L28 79 mm). Known as an LD28 or V07, they are now fetching over 1500 dollars each. Well, I got one out of Thailand for 400 bucks. So, I decided to build a stroker L series 6 engine for my Z car! I have the V07 crank, which has 83mm stroke, the L24 has 73mm. So I am gaining 10mm, of stroke! 99% of the guys are using this crank in a 280Z/L28 block to build a huge cubic inch stroker. If I did that, my freshly rebuilt SU 46mm carbs would be too small unless I spent money to have them bored out from 46mm to 50mm. So I figured, there is a way to get what I want...TORQUE, and use the stuff I have. Use an L24/L26 block instead of the L28/280Z block! Difference? L24/26 are 83 mm bore, L28 is 86mm bore. Since 260Z and 240Z use the same block, when given the oppurtunity to buy a long block L26 locally for CHEAP (REALLY CHEAP!) , I jumped! The stroker V07 crank is inbound, and Steve Bonk, well known in Z circles sold me a brand new set of forged H beam rods with ARP fasteners from K1 in the longer L24 rod size (L24 rod is logner than L28 by 3 mm! ). All that is left is pistons. They will be a custom made deal, as I want the bore to remain small, but still more than the stroke, so I maintain my bore/stroke ratio. 83 is the stock bore, and I am going to go 84mm which is barely larger than the 83mm stroke. Why not larger?? thicker walls mean more rigidity, more reliability and better seal, better everything! The pistons will work with the longer L24 spec rods and the V07 crank to get me right at 9.0 to 1 compression using the E88/260Z head with the Nissan head gasket. The E88 head I have, is .5 compression ratio lower, but has the 280Z exhaust valve already!I So I will use it. So, I got the long block today, and ran and got me a hoist and engine stand to do this. the bolts to hold the block in are NOT M10X1.5as everyone said ! I got those and they didn't work. I had to use SAE 3/8X16 bolts! That's right NOT metric but SAE! Were they tapped by a previous owner? Probably. I am OK with it. So, an additional run to the store got me some grade 8 botls, and I managed to get the engine off the ground and on to the stand! Then I commenced stripping it down. I think Nissan broke the Guiness book of world record for bolts for an oil pan....it seemed like there was 50 bolts holding it on! At any rate I got it down to a short block and rotating assembly. Next will be clearancing the bottom of the cylinders so the crank and rods will clear. A steady hand and my die griner and I hope to make the reliefs good enough that I don't have to do it again once the block is all clean and bored and ready to go. This will put me at 2750cc from 2393 cc ( gain of 350cc+). A L28/280Z engine is 2753....so Basically the same, yet, not. My engine more than likely will make more torque than horsepower, and that's fine. Why? Because I run an automatic transmission! Torque is king on the street, and especially with the auto trans. Keep in mind I still have a 510 torque converter for a higher stall and a Stage III shift kit I can add should I need to. With 3:54 open gears, it should really be great on the street! Cam selection is still up in the air....the C grind cam in the 260Z head is a great cam.....but I need to clean it up and see if she is good to go or not. Prior owner painted the block John Deere Green (why? ) Here are a few pics of my new headache.

Thanks Chuck. God bless.

10-4-2022 UPDATE: A full day in the garage doing wiring. Got the headlights working correctly, blinkers good, brake lights seem ok, parking lights and gauge lights not working....they were working earlier, now they are not. 🙁 Endless chasing! I had to run a new power wire to the solenoid to bypass the hiccups of auto trans start protection relays that no longer work right. Closer and closer! 🙂 The carbs are great! Maybe a tad rich at high RPM's, but engine starts just bumping the key!

Center piece installed today. Small steps

Tonight I got the panel put together and ready to install.

10-1-2022 UPDATE: New parts arrived. New reproduction panel from Motorsport Auto "The Z Store" and my Japanese spec Fairlady Z 432R radio delete panel from JDM-PARTS. I "deleted" the map light. Doesn't work/too old.)

thanks a lot, Ken. Sure is nice to get it out now. The car is geting better and better! SU's are dialed in, everything working great.

9-25-2022 UPDATE. I managed to get a few things done today. I swapped out my hazard switch, pulled the center dash vent panel and stereo out, pulled the center console out and did some wire cleanup and more work on tracing wiring to get things working. I found a connector that was undone.....that probably had a lot to do with my issues. Funny thing is, if I unplug it, car starts fine, if I plug it in, car starts in the "on" position and runs with the starter engaged. I disconnected it, car runs fine, so I will have to figure out what is causing my car to run in the ON position from where I plugged it in downstream. Most of the lights working and the gauges......since the gas gauge didn't work, I checked out the wiring at the gas tank, and those connections were bad, so I cleaned them up did a little repair, and now it works too! While I was under there, I went ahead and rust converted the tank straps and painted the tank. I finished up the front end alignment, just eye balled it now it has just a hair of toe in. Today I also jacked the car up in the rear and adjusted my emergency brake....I did 3 small videos of that I will attach. After all of this work my blinkers STILL don't work......new turn signal relay, new hazard switch...hmmm . One headlight I have to figure out, and when the lights are on, one backup light is on....so just have to trace it out. I am setting the car up as a "a vent fan delete" and "radio delete".....with jacks to plug in a stereo if needed. The stereo I had in there doesn't work......I will have to test it to find out why. So, alot of little stuff today. here are some pics and 3 videos at the end. Click below, to get to videos, they are at the end of the 5 pictures. (2) Facebook

On rolling the fenders for wheel/tire clearance, you can roll both layers in the rear together or you can trim half way and roll them in. A cut and roll will be even tighter when you need all the room you can get. In the rear there are 2 layers, the inner fender and outer fender. If you can cut the inner fender all the way back to where it is a 90 degree bend, the outer level will then roll up flush and pinch the end of the inner fender up and then rollup flush. Then seal it up to keep water from getting between the 2 panels.

IMG_0926.HEICIMG_0928.HEICIMG_0927.HEICCouple pics out and about yesterday.

I super glued a small piece of rubber, a little square on each interior side door latch. So when you open the door and get go of the latch it doesn't hit the metal and rattle. I can't believe how fast it shifts when I shift it manually.

9-18-2022 UPDATE. Today was an odd day in the garage. I managed to take the turn signal relay out, and I found it is a 2 piece arrangement one plugged into another. So, I put the new one in and absolutely nothing still. I went over to the passenger side and looked on the outer footwell.....apparently there is supposed to be a round relay there....I sure don't see it. I have a relay there that is rectangular shaped with rounded corners......at that point, I decided heck with it and started working on other items for now. I cleaned up the door jambs. On the driver's (left) side, I went ahead and cleaned it up, masked it off and decided just to repaint it, as my wet sanding just wasn't getting back down to thenice paintjob that was there before I did the bodywork and painting. I ended up with a few runs that I can address later, but I got it painted....I also went ahead and attached a couple of weatherstripping pieces, and then took some steel wool and removed what was left of the chrome "plating" on the plastic strip of the door panels. I then masked it off and used the Molotov paint pen I had to make it look new. Well, it didn't. The paint pen doesn't allow it to go on smooth, and looks choppy when done, so I took a rag and Denatured alcohol and wiped it off. I think I will spray it with the Interior SEM Napa red paint and just make it a part of the whole door panel/card. I cleaned it all up and got it ready for that, then went over to the right side and did the same, but also went ahead and installed the weatherstripping for that side that needed to be replaced. Thankfully, that side didnt't need to be painted like the Left/Driver's side. I also finished the painting of my grill to a dark grey. I put everything away and deicded to take her for a drive.....Well it ran great sitting still but driving under load she was very lean, lurching and popping. So I turned the mixture screws on the SU's all the way in then back out 2.5 turns. Now it ran great! I found a stretch of raod where I could then carefully step by step lean it out until it ran bad, then back up one spot. So overall I am 2 turns out PLUS "one click rich" or 2 1/4 turns out. Put the airbox back on and hit the road! For some reason the kickdown from drive didn't want to work, and I found that manually shifting the auto was better anyway. Manually shifting gives you a very quick shift....so not quite sure why shift kits are even sold......I CAN however see where the loose torque converter I have could be nice from a dead stop....she is a tad sleepy for a second or two, then takes off fine. I have an appointment in a couple days for front end alignment and a vacuum brake bleeding, as my best efforts with the speed bleeders still isn't cutting it. The tires are also self clearancing the flares as needed on bumps, etc. Not damaging the tire at all, just shaving the inside edge of the plastic flare. I was able to reach under there and pull the filings off! I am really going to have to get serious about my lighting and couple gauges that aren't working now. Everything else is fine. Exhaust really growls on a downhill at speed when I downshift and let the compression slow her down! Here are a few pics.

9/17/2022 UPDATE. My air filter finally came in. A previous owner had drilled a bunch of holes in the bottom of the factory air cleaner cover. I remembered that 3M makes colored duct tape, and so I bought some and cut it nicely and covered the outside of the holes, then put it on the inside as well. I want it sealed. I then polished it up and took a few pics. I may get reproduction stickers for it....pics!

Thanks a lot! I like it.

Click below for video: V1.MOV

9-11-2022 UPDATE. Tuned the carbs, and got the backing plate back on. Ran new lines for the float overflows I think it looks good. Then I changed out my old turn signal and light switches/stalks for the rebuilt set I bought. After getting the plastic covers back on, I went ahead and removed the grill, and began installation of my horns and the Headlight Relay Conversion MSA sells. The bracket that was supposed to be with the horns wasn't there, so I made my own, and painted it satin black. I managed to get the air pump installed right behind the horns inside the engine compartment, along with it's relay. Next was the headlight relays.....I mounted the 2 relays on the right side inner fenderwell and ran the wires. For some reason, only one headlight comes on....switch to high beam, then it comes on in low beam....so more to figure out. Also turn signals don't come on or flash, no brake lights now, and now the fuel temp and oil gauges don't work....oh and the tach is spotty. Stuff to do I guess. I took a few pics and a video of the horn.....she is LOUD! V1.MOV

9-9-2022 UPDATE. I finally got my BRE sticker.....so, the last stickers for underhood are now on, the BRE sticker, and my Vintage Gulf Imola racing sticker....yeah, it's OLD. Also had some time, so I tackled the big port on the back of the aircleaner that was all scratched up and looked awful. I got a rubber plug and pushed and turned it in tight, then put a bead of superglue where it goes into the metal....then masked it off and painted it with 2 coats of satin black. Then I took some wax, and polished out the backing plate.

Thanks, Chuck.

9-7-2022 UPDATE: Ok, so I got the carbs working well enough to sneak in a first drive. Down to the corner and back twice....stopped and put 10 gallons of 87 octane in. WIth the wide tires, the steering is tough! Also, now out of the garage I can see things I didn't see in the garage, so plenty to fiddle with. Now I will put the Gunson Tune on there and tune it, and get it ready for front end alignment, a vacuum brake fluid change ( my best efforts not good enough) , finish hooking up the lights, etc. and then I will have a driving project. Here is a video or 2 of it running and a walkaround, and 3 pics. I revved it so you could hear the pipe, but obviously the carbs are rich, but oh well, took about 15 months to get here this far, and I feel pretty good about it.....:) Click below here to see video's (click through pictures, they are at the end.): (20) Facebook

Thanks a lot, Ken.

9-6-2022 UPDATE: I got the Z to run, albeit it was smoking like an old coal powered steam locomotive! Out of the garage in a circle and back in. First time I have driven it, first time moved under it's own steam since it's been here. Have to take the small victories! So, I spent some time trying to figure out why it was just drinking fuel like crazy, disconnect the chokes, pulled the tops, verified the needles, N54, mixture nuts all the way in, yet still not only running, but blowing dark grey clouds everywhere, so I stepped back and started reading up.....and after shooting a text to Sal Ceja, he told me what it was....I had plugged off the vents on top of each float bowl.....without the air, the float just jams up and you get full rich......so that is the next step!

9-4-2022 UPDATE: I managed to finally get the car running ELECTRICALLY. I had to climb underneath and with a long screwdriver I removed the mixture set screws on the SU carbs that was keeping me from turning the mixture screws all the way in and then back out 2 turns. Normally it as a 4 position wheel. So, now I just have to turn the other needles in and back out to a baseline so it will idle without me having to pump the gas. I also had to replace the ignition switch again, and put a new coil in. 1972 means everything is old, and is suspceptible to being replaced I guess. Work continued.....I went ahead and tackled the area under the master cylinder......I sanded out the metal, then blew it off and masked off everything, then painted it white and then top coated it with Caliper clear paint which SHOULD be brake fluid resistant. I Lastly I scraped off some sticker residue on the inside of the windows and put the factory "OK" stickers on both quarter windows. Small steps. Pics follow.

8-28-2022 UPDATE: Well it's wash day! pine-sol, a rag and water mixed in a bucket, wiped out and cleaned the entire interior of the car, vacuuming time and again, as I went until I finally succeeded in getting it back to where it was before I did the bodywork. 🙂 I swapped in my new ignition switch.....it is held on by 4 bolts, and 2 of which are they type that break off once they are installed....TERRIBLE! Well the new one came with 2 of them as well. So you can spend half the day drilling them out, or do what I did, I took my Dremel and just cut the bracket off. I installed the new one with 4 bolts being phillips head, no break off bolts! I wiped down all the tools and jack etc, cleaned out the storage boxes and got it all put away correctly and closed up. I then installed the arm rest, which is a Z store armrest I got from another member eons ago, as MSA doesn't make them anymore, and then installed my fire extinguisher again, over the Z floormats I got from Hung Vu. I think the red Z matches well with the red interior. I almost have the electrical issue solved. A lot of trial and error, ending up with the new switch allowing the engine to run, if I hold the Key in "start".....so I had this problem when I first got the car......I am thinking the ballast may be bad. It was cool to have the car start up again for the first time in at least 6 months. VERY rich and out of tune, but everything still works. Caught some rev's and got the lovely howl from that exhaust! Oh, on my old switch were 2 wires. I think that is for the lighting circuit to be on when in accessory....the new switch doesn't have the wires. Hmm....last night I plugged the switch in, and all the interior lights came on, accessory relay clicked, and nothing.....now engine runs in "start", no interior lights. Whew! Well, for motivation I took several profile pics of the car when the work was done. Plenty of pics attached. Cheers! 🙂

Thanks, Ken.

8-27-2022 I wet sanded my louvers with 2000 grit sandpaper and water, the pained surface is nice and smooth now, cleaned up the overspray on the sunroof area, removed the stickers on the sidewalls ( not an easy job by the way ) and gave The Z car a good bath. Afterwards, I dried her off and popped the sunroof galss panels out and cleaned up the rubber and foam seals. Proof positive that she spend the majority of her life inside....the seals are still supple and soft, not hard at all! After cleaning up the glass, and using steel wool on rusty spots to include the retention pins, I reinstalled them, and then brought the carpets and everything in and vacuumed them out. Next is interior clean up (again), install of the new ignition switch and further little bugs to get it on the street ASAP.