A to Z

11-23-2022 UPDATE. I jumped off into the deep end yet again. To go with my stroker engine.......I bought a 5 speed manual trans! I already have the pedal box for a manual trans. I can buy a brand new conversion kit from Godzilla raceworks. I was going to just get a 4 speed since they are so much cheaper, but at the last minute I decided to do this. It is out of a 1980 280ZX NON Turbo car. So, it is the desireable close ratio unit. There is a shop in Colorado Springs, Precision Transmission, who will rebuild it for me. Crossing fingers as some parts are NLA ( no longer available).....so hope fully the bearings and syncros are all that will be needed. Also went ahead and got the engine plate for manual trans. Dirty as heck.....needs my "golden touch". Other than the conversion kit, I need, a shifter, a couple of shifter boots, inner and outer, and a new starter.......would be nice to get a NOS one, who knows. Anyway, that's the news..... here are a few pics of the stuff. I got it on eBay.

Thanks a lot, brother. I love you.

A lot of work down here.....doing yardwork to help out......I had to make a fun day.

Have any of you had luck with a twin turbo setup on the L series. Seems that 2 small turbo's might help with lag and really provide a movre livable street setup

11-17-2022 UPDATE: I found myself in the Bay Area for a few days, so I took some time and drove out to Antioch to meet Dave Rebello and his crew. Very nice guys, and the tips for building my engine were extraordinary. 50 years of doing this means a lot of good knowledge to gain. While there I picked up the Harmonic Balancer I need for the stroker crank and checked up on the pistons. Guys were so nice they took the balancer into the back and honed it.....for street applications, Dave said it needs to be honed.....when I told him I would hone it with my drill on my leg he handed it to one of his guys and they went and did it proper! Pistons almost ready. Amazing that the quality control is so good nowadays. The chief engine builder, Mark, was telling me the last 20 SETS of pistons from TRAUM, all rings were to spec, and DIDN'T even need to be filed to fit. INCRDIBLE! Also saw out front awaiting shipment a 2.5 stroker heading to europe, 13.0 to 1 compression race engine, Dave told me numbers and I don't remember but it was WAY more than 300.....almost 400. Mark said from idle to 8000 it is a beast! I also snapped a pic for a dyno chart from a 2.7 street build he did that showed torque way above 200 all the way across.....I hope, I hope!

Thanks. I am trying to. 11-17-2022 UPDATE: I found myself in the Bay Area for a few days, so I took some time and drove out to Antioch to meet Dave Rebello and his crew. Very nice guys, and the tips for building my engine were extraordinary. 50 years of doing this means a lot of good knowledge to gain. While there I picked up the Harmonic Balancer I need for the stroker crank and checked up on the pistons. Guys were so nice they took the balancer into the back and honed it.....for street applications, Dave said it needs to be honed.....when I told him I would hone it with my drill on my leg he handed it to one of his guys and they went and did it proper! Pistons almost ready. Amazing that the quality control is so good nowadays. The chief engine builder, Mark, was telling me the last 20 SETS of pistons from TRAUM, all rings were to spec, and DIDN'T even need to be filed to fit. INCRDIBLE! Also saw out front awaiting shipment a 2.5 stroker heading to europe, 13.0 to 1 compression race engine, Dave told me numbers and I don't remember but it was WAY more than 300.....almost 400. Mark said from idle to 8000 it is a beast! I also snapped a pic for a dyno chart from a 2.7 street build he did that showed torque way above 200 all the way across.....I hope, I hope!

11-4-2022 UPDATE. I have ordered more parts for the engine build. I got some NOS Nissan main and rod bearings, a cleaned up and restored front cover, New Nissan NOS oil pump, New NOS Nissan water pump, and in talking to Dave Rebello, found out that these V07 Diesel cranks don't "like" stock harmonic balancers.......He sells a single pulley variant of BHJ harmonic balancers which have been designed and are successful in handling the harmonics that the extra stroke brings to the table. He also stated that for some reason, 6400 RPM is a point where the engines show a great deal of harmonic disturbance, and that it is best if guys avoid that RPM, shoot right through it or shift before it, but make all efforts from doing anything that holds the engine at that precise RPM. Food for thought. He also said that racing and hot street engines, have shown that the factory torque specs for various parts is not near tight enough, case in point the harmonic balancer instead of being factory spec'd at 120 ft/lbs torque, should be 150! Flywheel botls are another he mentioned......he recently had another guy lose his harmonic balancer, just fell off! So, Dave Rebello at Rebello Racing woud be a good call for anyone doing a lot of high RPM stuff.

11-4-2022 UPDATE. I have ordered more parts for the engine build. I got some NOS Nissan main and rod bearings, a cleaned up and restored front cover, New Nissan NOS oil pump, New NOS Nissan water pump, and in talking to Dave Rebello, found out that these V07 Diesel cranks don't "like" stock harmonic balancers.......He sells a single pulley variant of BHJ harmonic balancers which have been designed and are successful in handling the harmonics that the extra stroke brings to the table. He also stated that for some reason, 6400 RPM is a point where the engines show a great deal of harmonic disturbance, and that it is best if guys avoid that RPM, shoot right through it or shift before it, but make all efforts from doing anything that holds the engine at that precise RPM. Food for thought. He also said that racing and hot street engines, have shown that the factory torque specs for various parts is not near tight enough, case in point the harmonic balancer instead of being factory spec'd at 120 ft/lbs torque, should be 150! Flywheel botls are another he mentioned......he recently had another guy lose his harmonic balancer, just fell off! So, Dave Rebello at Rebello Racing woud be a good call for anyone doing a lot of high RPM stuff.

good to know, thanks.

What I was able to figure out, was the size they are now, and what size in diameter they would be if the crank was turned .010 under. Because I am a LONG way from being that size, I know that I am within tolerances. It might not be scientific, but if an engine is a hair loose, using thicker oil can and will make up for it. 20W50 can make an engine with 35-40 psi of oil pressure at idle have about 10 more! My intention, is to plastigauge it when I put it together on the mains and rod journals, and use 20W50 if she is a little loose. I am betting it won't be loose at all...it will be just fine and will warrant 10W40 oil. When I start it and the oil gauge goes past the halfway mark?.....success. This is being built as a stock motor, to be used within the power band of the early 240Z "A" grind cam and E31 head with small ports and small valves, the cam maxxes out at 5600 RPM! 4300 for torque. Just a lot of torque. I am going to advance it to #3 on the timing upper sprocket per Dave Rebello's suggestion. I am doing this the opposite of what everyone else does in the Z car world. 6K would be the absolute max RPM the engine will ever see. I just put it in drive and go! It shifts at peak torque anyway, 4300-4500 rpm.

10-20-2022 UPDATE: My Arizona Z car aluminum oil pan arrived today as well as my Brass freeze plugs. Couple pics and a video link to click on to go see. Flip through the pictures the video is at the end. Link to video, click below: (11) Facebook

10-20-2022 UPDATE: My Arizona Z car aluminum oil pan arrived today as well as my Brass freeze plugs. Couple pics and a video link to click on to go see. Flip through the pictures the video is at the end. Link to video click below: (11) Facebook

10-19-2022 UPDATE: Arrival of gaskets and seals, and timing chain for the build. All Nissan parts and the Timing Chain is from Japan as well. I don't feel good about using chinese timing chain components.....The Z Car Depot was able to fit the bill this time. I additionally received my sleeves to go over the crank snout and rear main seal area(s) to ensure that I get a oil leak free seal. My garage is getting full again.....Pics follow:

10-19-2022 UPDATE: Arrival of gaskets and seals, and timing chain for the build. All Nissan parts and the Timing Chain is from Japan as well. I don't feel good about using chinese timing chain components.....The Z Car Depot was able to fit the bill this time. I additionally received my sleeves to go over the crank snout and rear main seal area(s) to ensure that I get a oil leak free seal. My garage is getting full again.....Pics follow:

10-19-2022 UPDATE. Mic'ing the stroker crank for my engine build. So, the micronometer I ordered on Amazon came in and I went ahead and masured my crank. All journals are within spec for standard bearings per the Factory manual under "EM Mechanical". I have attached a form showing my recordings which were right on for all 14 bearing surfaces and the crank snout. Because there can be the question on whether or not I didn't take it out enough decimal points, I attached another form, showing what the measurement would have had to be to step up to a thicker bearing for an udnersized ground crank. Sure, there will be some with the "but, but, but...." and I accept that, for an engine that is being built like a race engine with a redline in the stratosphere.....but mine is building build to stock specs and a 6,000 RPM redline. My cam maxxes out at 5600 RPM anyways (for horsepower, for torque around 4500 RPM). if I want more oil pressure, I just use the thicker 20W50 oil instead of 10W40.....just remember the ZDDP additive. So, here they are, think what you will.

10-19-2022 UPDATE. Mic'ing the stroker crank for my engine build. So, the micronometer I ordered on Amazon came in and I went ahead and masured my crank. All journals are within spec for standard bearings per the Factory manual under "EM Mechanical". I have attached a form showing my recordings which were right on for all 14 bearing surfaces and the crank snout. Because there can be the question on whether or not I didn't take it out enough decimal points, I attached another form, showing what the measurement would have had to be to step up to a thicker bearing for an udnersized ground crank. Sure, there will be some with the "but, but, but...." and I accept that, for an engine that is being built like a race engine with a redline in the stratosphere.....but mine is building build to stock specs and a 6,000 RPM redline. My cam maxxes out at 5600 RPM anyways (for horsepower, for torque around 4500 RPM). if I want more oil pressure, I just use the thicker 20W50 oil instead of 10W40.....just remember the ZDDP additive. So, here they are, think what you will.

Yeah, I noticed that as well....kind of shrugged it off honestly.

10-16-2022 UPDATE: Today I started by cleaning all of the caked on dirt/oil off the timing cover. Even with the pitting, I really thought maybe I could save it, but it is just too far gone. Im going to source another one. Next I started on the crank. It was a dirty grimy mess. Using parts cleaner and an old toothbrush I stood the crank on it's end, leaned it against me, and just started dunking the toothbrush in the cleaner and then scrubbing and wiping...working by way down.....then flipped it over and did the same to the other side. That took quite a while, the crank looked like someone had poured 30 wt oil on it and then threw it in the bed of a truck and drove down dirt roads for 6 months! I then took some steel wool and started again on one end and worked my way to the other, flipped it over and again.... the counterweights came clean! That caked on grime on the counterweights, you name it....after this it was starting to look better. These Diesel cranks have a pin on the end that has to be removed when using it in a Z car engine, so a few minutes with my die grinder and good to go. At this point, I was able to take some180 grit Emory Cloth and I took a thin strip of it, wrapped it around one journal and pulled and pushed and worked way around the journal, checking to see if it was coming clean....then moved to the next. Next, I took some 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper and tore it into long strips, and sprayed it down with WD-40 and did the same as I did with the emory cloth to smooth it out. After that I took a sock and some Mothers Mag and aluminum polish and put some on each journal and pull/pushed with the sock until each journal shined like chrome. Then I took a thin screwdriver I had where the tip had broke off, and being a round shaft it JUST fit into each oil hole. I was able to use it and a rag to clean out all the oil holes that went through each journal. After that came the carb cleaner with the little red straw that comes with it I blew out all of those holes going through the journals AND used the carb cleaner to throughly clean the entire crank. Once done it just glistened. All the oil holes clean as a whistle. So, 2-3 hours of work, but the crank is now good to go. What's next? I went after the block! I pulled the crank, and the rods and pistons out of the L26 block. I then cleaned the main bolts, the caps, everything, and made sure to keep the caps in the order they were in the block. Once that was done, I took the wire wheel attachment in my electric drill and cleaned up the block a bit then sprayed the block inside and out with carb cleaner. Then it was cleanup time which took a bit, but it feels good to get the dirty/nasty part of the job out of the way....mostly. Here are some pics:

10-16-2022 UPDATE: Today I started by cleaning all of the caked on dirt/oil off the timing cover. Even with the pitting, I really thought maybe I could save it, but it is just too far gone. Im going to source another one. Next I started on the crank. It was a dirty grimy mess. Using parts cleaner and an old toothbrush I stood the crank on it's end, leaned it against me, and just started dunking the toothbrush in the cleaner and then scrubbing and wiping...working by way down.....then flipped it over and did the same to the other side. That took quite a while, the crank looked like someone had poured 30 wt oil on it and then threw it in the bed of a truck and drove down dirt roads for 6 months! I then took some steel wool and started again on one end and worked my way to the other, flipped it over and again.... the counterweights came clean! That caked on grime on the counterweights, you name it....after this it was starting to look better. These Diesel cranks have a pin on the end that has to be removed when using it in a Z car engine, so a few minutes with my die grinder and good to go. At this point, I was able to take some180 grit Emory Cloth and I took a thin strip of it, wrapped it around one journal and pulled and pushed and worked way around the journal, checking to see if it was coming clean....then moved to the next. Next, I took some 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper and tore it into long strips, and sprayed it down with WD-40 and did the same as I did with the emory cloth to smooth it out. After that I took a sock and some Mothers Mag and aluminum polish and put some on each journal and pull/pushed with the sock until each journal shined like chrome. Then I took a thin screwdriver I had where the tip had broke off, and being a round shaft it JUST fit into each oil hole. I was able to use it and a rag to clean out all the oil holes that went through each journal. After that came the carb cleaner with the little red straw that comes with it I blew out all of those holes going through the journals AND used the carb cleaner to throughly clean the entire crank. Once done it just glistened. All the oil holes clean as a whistle. So, 2-3 hours of work, but the crank is now good to go. What's next? I went after the block! I pulled the crank, and the rods and pistons out of the L26 block. I then cleaned the main bolts, the caps, everything, and made sure to keep the caps in the order they were in the block. Once that was done, I took the wire wheel attachment in my electric drill and cleaned up the block a bit then sprayed the block inside and out with carb cleaner. Then it was cleanup time which took a bit, but it feels good to get the dirty/nasty part of the job out of the way....mostly. Here are some pics:

10-15-2022 UPDATE. My 2.9 Stroker Engine build ~ still gathering parts, I am awaiting a box full of gaskets and seals from The Z car Depot, A oil pickup tube and screen I bought from Harold Burroughs, and I have an Arizona Z Car aluminum baffled oil pan en-route as well ( yes they are available, a fresh batch just arrived! Hurry!). 7.5 quart capacity and is fully baffled. Below are pics of it I found online, not my car, posted just to look at. My custom 85.5 mm foged aluminum pistons from Rebello Racing are being made now, and now I need to clean up stuff and clearance the block. Of course I will provide pics of all this as it arrives.

10-15-2022 UPDATE. My 2.9 Stroker Engine build ~ still gathering parts, I am awaiting a box full of gaskets and seals from The Z car Depot, A oil pickup tube and screen I bought from Harold Burroughs, and I have an Arizona Z Car aluminum baffled oil pan en-route as well ( yes they are available, a fresh batch just arrived! Hurry!). 7.5 quart capacity and is fully baffled. Below are pics of it I found online, not my car, posted just to look at. My custom 85.5 mm forged aluminum pistons from Rebello Racing are being made now, and now I need to clean up stuff and clearance the block. Of course I will provide pics of all this as it arrives.

10-14-2022 UPDATE: Today my rods arrived for my stroker build. K1 rods I bought through Steve Bonk. 132.9mm long, factory L24 240Z engine rod length. Already balanced to within 1 gram and also come with ARP 2000 bolts.

10-14-2022 UPDATE: Today my rods arrived for my stroker build. K1 rods I bought through Steve Bonk. 132.9mm long, factory L24 240Z engine rod length. Already balanced to within 1 gram and also come with ARP 2000 bolts.

10-13-2022 UPDATE: My LD28/V07 diesel "stroker" crank arrived from Thailand today. $400. My 132.9" (L24 length) K1 H beam rods with ARP hardware have a scheduled arrival of Saturday I ordered some pistons from Rebello Racing, forged and custom made, but went ahead and moved the bore out to 85.5mm. So .020 under stock L28 bore. Essentially a wash giving me L28 280Z engine bore. I will using my Early 1970 E31 head and matching "A" grind cam, but on the #3 hole, which provides more torque. Dave Rebello and I went over it all and the pistons will be a nice forged set giving me 10 to 1 compression, and if I need more in the future, a .020 shave of the head will take it to 10.7 to 1. End result is a 2.9 stroker engine. I also ordered up the gaskets and seales and a new Timing set from Japan as well. Z Car Depot sending that stuff. I will get the crank in for work soon. More than likely .010 under all the way across, chamfer the holes and micro polish the bearing surfaces, then magnaflux and balance Here are some pics of the stroker cam as it arrived today.

thanks.