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moderator pls delete

Time for an update. The short block is still at the machinists,:( and I got the chance to buy an E31 head that is ported, with L28 intake valves, Electramotive L4 cam, springs all the good stuff, 500-1000 miles on it. Well, the head arrived and I took some time today to clean it all up. Using a brass wire wheel attachment in the drill I cleaned the whole thing, and then CC'd a chamber. The head was shaved, and the machinist left .060 stamped in the corner....it's a lot huh? It cc'd at 37.5cc and stock would be 42.4, so 5 cc less. I used some brake cleaner and a toothbrush and I got it all clean and ready to go. In the pics to follow you can see how clean the valley around the valves, look how clean I got it. Here are the cam specs. I found these on here, from May 26, 2006, member: Phred Electramotive L4-02; Y84N; 7151. Ground by Ron Iskanderian at Isky cams a LONG time ago. Intake Lift .562 Exhaust Lift .552 I.O. 22 btdc Duration 247 Degrees E.O. 46 bbdc Duration 246 Degrees I.C. 45 abdc Intake lobe center 101.5 E.C. 20 atdc Exaust lobe center 103 This is at a .050 Valve Lift Lash (cold) .008 intake, .010 exhasut

02-25-2023 UPDATE: A busy day, and today was cylinder head day. I started by using a wire wheel attachemnt in my drill and cleaned out the chambers and a couple spots that had material built up on the mating surface. After that I then went over the outside surfaces of the head, then going over it in a few spots with some fine sandpaper and then buffed it to a shine. Then with brake cleaner and a toothbrush I cleaned the whole head up. In the pics you can see how clean I was able to get the valley inside the head. Next was to cc a chamber. I found that the machinist marked the head .060 after he shaved it.....quit a bit huh? Well, it explains the 3 shims under each cam tower. I used a CD case cover and drilled a hole in it, and then got some vaseline and rubbing alcohol and a syringe. Reading, I found out that Milli Liters (mL) the same as cc. So, I went ahead to cc'd a chamber. 37.5cc. Stock was 42.4, so 5 cc lost in the milling. In the pics you will notice the cam is dry....brake cleaner does that! You can tell the cam was ground on a factory blank, and you can see how the lobe is even maybe even a little lower that the cam shaft itself. At this point, I set it to the side and began stripping everything off my factory head. I was at this time I noticed my head is actually an E88!! I don't know how I have read it wrong for almost 2 years, but off the car, in the light, I found out I didn't have an E31 head after all! What a shock! Well, next was cleaning up the thermostat housing. It's not completely done, but form the pic you can see it getting close. Took a while, but I like the direction it is going. Kind of pic heavy, sorry.

Give Godzilla Raceworks a call. The are into Turbo builds

here is the cam I have. Now to search and find out the specifics so it can be degreed in.

I found the cheapest and fastest way to get your head ported, is to go on to a lot of forums and start asking if anyone has a ported head they would sell? You wouldn't believe how many guys have one, that has just been sitting. I grabbed one with the cam, lifters, correct lash pads, proper valve springs ..... everything. 500 miles on it, sitting for years and got it for half of what it would cost just for the work, not including the price of the head. And it has an AWESOME cam! Never hurts to just ask around!

would make a big improvement if it works as advertised or envisioned.

Since I started this thread, I have learned a lot about this. The basic idea is that when you increse the size of an engine, you need to incresae the size of the cam as well. Adding stroke changes the STATIC compression, and too high of a static compression becomes an issue for several factors, one of which is pump gas will be harder to run......timing has to be pulled back, etc. you have to find a fine line on what your usage is.....pump gas? 93? 91? elevation? carburetion adequate to feed the beast? compression adjustments if necessary with a thicker cometic head gasket?....but you can't go too thick before quench becomes too much and affects the cylinders ability to burn the mixture efficiently. When all is said and done, richening the mixture or even going 1 step or 2 stewps with a colder spark plug can help you live with pump gas with a higher compression ratio.

Shoot Tony D a PM on here. If you ask him nicely, he may help you out.

The little bit I do know about this, is that you need to upgrade your oil pump to a 280ZX turbo pump to handle the excess oil flow.

The cam I have for my stroker is here. I got as a part of a ported E31 head setup I bought. It is an Electramotive L4-02. Presently I do not have a cam card to get it degreed in correctly. Do any of you have a cam card? Do you have any info you would share with me? Id like to know all there is to know about it......thanks in advance. Here is a pic of the end of the cam.

There are a lot more options than you will hear about. Dave Rebello has built several big bore engines from L24 and L26 blocks. Some racing classes in England require it, so it has to say it on the side of the block. Both blocks carry a "P30" casting, and have an 83mm stock bore. Also most guys see an L26 block as a throwaway....so get it for next to nothing, and if it passes Maganaflux its good to go. From Dave, I learned that you can safely take one out 2.5mm to 85.5mm on the bore. That's .020 under stock L28 bore. Sleeving the block. YES it can be done. An L26 block can have all 6 bores sleeved, and costwise it can be done for about $150 per cylinder INSTALLED. Sleeves can be custom made if necessary to meet the need. Melling makes sleeves in 3/32 or 1/8" wall thickness AFTER final bore size. So you order 90mm internal bore sizing with a 1/8" wall. It IS possible that at some point, the sides of the bores may need to be milled flat so they can sit next to each other properly in the block. Granted, some sleeves have a larger diameter stepped neck to support them, but it isn't necessary in an L6. What the machinist has to do is simply bore it out for the sleeve but stop short....say 3/8's of an inch or 1/2 of an inch. This leaves a "step" for the sleeve to sit on. If needed they can simply machine off the length off the sleeve but leave it a tad long, so that once inserted, the block can receive a quick clean up mill. Once done, you can't even tell it's been done. If necessary the boring maching can then be taken back in and machine the step flush with the internal bore of the sleeve.....although it should be noted the pistons doesn't come down that far. So the step and the head hold the sleeve in tight. If someone wanted to be anal, they could weld the bottom of the sleeve in, but the press fit should be strong enough to hold it. You could always bore the step almost flush, weld the sleeve, and then bore the step flush with the weld making it one piece. In short, if the block has been magnafluxed and is free of racks....use it. YES F54 280ZX blocks are said to have more ribbing between the bores, but they are also more common than not to be too thin to do any boring much past stock. The sleeve gives you the thickness for good ring seal. Whether the larger sleeve affects cooling to a degree that would be conerning, I do not know. F54 is more expensive, and if you are going to sleeve it, is it still worth it? I suppose if the extra webbing it still there after boring for the sleeve, then it would be nice....but I am a street car guy, and so, I would go with the P30 and feel great about it.. My L26 block, I took to 85.5. I would not hesitate personally to sleeve all 6 and go with a 90mm pistons if I did it over again. Just make sure you have the head gasket that will accept the bore you go with. Peace.

thanks! 2-22-2023 UPDATE: Kind of in a holding pattern right now. Short block is being finished up....have to wait in line. The Ported Head I bought from Dan Carroll has been shipped....the Electromotive cam in there is shrouded in mystery....On Steve Ehlers advice, I called Isky cams and talked to Ron, who was the one who ground these cams. As soon as the cam is here I will write down all the info on the back of the cam and get back with him to see if he can get me the cam card to degree the cam just right. Mark FL helped me out with a new and unused .080 Cometic headgasket and a Kameari adjustable cam gear sprocket. And since my coil died a while back, I went through MSA and got a FAST PS20 coil and a chrome bracket. It really wouldn't have killed the people at FAST to put the sticker on straight!:)

old topic.....but it would seem a thicker head gasket from Cometic would have eliminated the valve to piston interference. I dont know how you had valve interference with 525 lift. Guys run a lot more lift than that with much higher compression.

Interested in a L6 head already ported.

Here's a bit of a complicated question. My L6 has a diesel crank and H beam 240Z rods, and Rebello custom pistons set at 10.0 to 1 compression at zero deck height with my E31 head. The cam is the stock "A" cam. Because I am adding basically 1/2 inch of stroke, how will the stock cam act? I am thinking the cylinder pressures will be higher and port velocity will probably go up, but wondering what to expect.......will the timing have to be backed off? Opinions/comments please.

ready to go!

02-11-2023 UPDATE: I started with the foot peddles. I removed the brake pedal for the auto trans, and installed the manual peddles. THIS IS INCREDIBLY HARD! A lot of contortion....6'1 and 240 lbs makes it ROUGH. I put it off for a long time, and now I am SO glad it is done. After this I decided to put the lower radiator hose fitting on to the timing chain. As always I like to put a very thin coat of gasket maker on each surface then use the gasket. This way the gasket maker can fill any imperfections in the surfaces and you get a great seal. For the plug, my stainless plugs came in and would not go in.....So I decided heck with it.....gooped up the brass plug with some pipe sealer and ran it in. I was able to enlist the help of my neighbor and his buddy and I put my shifter into his vice, and with a MAPP gas torch I heated and bent my shifter into an "S" so it will clear everything. In doing this job, the surface of the chrome, etc was all burned and looked awful. With a file and with my wire wheel attachment in a drill I was able to clean it up to a nice brushed finish. I decided to tape off the ends, and give it a few coats of clear paint. I used the Clear Engine paint. It is tough....thick, and VERY glossy. Duplicolor engine clear with ceramic added. Here are some pics of the day.

02-06-2023 UPDATE. Ok, so my lower radiator fitting arrived. Nissan part # 14-J8204. This is the L28 fitting. I found that a 1/2" brass plug workes perfect. It goes halfway in by hand, just need to run it back and worth to get it to set all the way in, and I will goop the threads with pipe dope. Couple pics:

02-04-2023 UPDATE: Hit the work today, nice decent temperature, so I went ahead and pulled the center console and started opening up the shifter hole. You can see the outline of where it needs to be cut out. So using my Dremel and cutting wheels I cut it to the point where I could grab the pieces with some pliers and remove it. Then I used both my die grinder and hand held file to clean it all up. Then, you can see the the holes that need to be drilled are also marked for you, So I drilled the holes open, and that part was done. After that I took my clutch master cylinder, the braided line and Clutch Slave cylinder and bolted them all together, and then I bled the whole system. Nice to get it done while it is out. I kept going and installed the master cylinder, and then grabbed the transmission and went ahead and installed the Backup light switch , and the speedo gear piece. Then the bracket for the transmission mount. Since the rubber ones are so expensive, I took advantage of the chance to get a solid aluminum mount for about half the price. My neighbor mentioned it would be good to put a bit of rubber in there to give it some give, since the engine motor mounts are still rubber, and gave me 2 thin strips of rubber. As you can see in the pics below, I put them in there behind the mount and then bolted it down. Becasue the mount isn't centered, I need to figure out if I have it correctly or if I need to rotate the mount 180 degrees. So....next is the clutch and brake pedals. I pulled them off my pare set, and wire wheeled them up, then masked and painted them. A lot done today. Getting her all ready for the new engine and trans to go back in. Here are some pics.

Anyone offhand know the size of the threads in there for a flush plug?

Thanks. I have received several responses that all, like yours, made too much sense to take the chance. So, I went ahead and got a lower coolant piece from an L28. Since I am going heater delete, this one allows me to put a flush threaded plug in the end, looks much better. No longer available through Nissan, so I found them at JDM-Parts.com. Not cheap, but.....

I went ahead and got a lower coolant piece from an L28. Since I am going heater delete, this one allows me to put a flush threaded plug in the end, looks much better. No longer available through Nissan, so I found them at JDM-Parts.com. Not cheap, but.....

1-28-2023 UPDATE: Crank is done. cut .010 under on all journals and no has ZERO runout. Block was tanked and magnafluxed, came out great. Is awaiting boring now.