skipzoomie

Not for the 5 speed trans. The vacuum line to the automatic was to operate the vacuum modulator. However, you might use the vacuum port for some other item such as the heater control.

I call mine Zoomie. Hence the site name. This little car just hates to go slow.

It is VERY important that the throttle valve be adjusted CORRECTLY. This valve controls the shift schedule and if it's not right on then all sorts of things act wierd.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think you can use 600HP and fuel savings in the same sentence. It takes a lot of oats to feed that many horses. I agree with Mike. Talk to the guys at Holley. They're a bunch of good guys. They sent my brother a new ECU for his Projection when it went bad prematurely. Can't beat that for service.

I'm currently parting an 83 ZXT. All drive train pieces are already sold. This car had only 83k miles. All interior pieces are in excellent condition. Email me direct at skipzcar@aol.com.

The seals come in different sets depending on which areas of the rack you are working on. I bought all of the sets and if I remember correctly they were about $40.00.

Not a lot of options are there? That's the same place that I used for my 280. It works fine.

You're much better off to plug in at the drier and run whatever air hose you'll need. Probably a bit cheaper too.

if you're up to it, seals can bought from your Nissan dealer. The racks aren't that hard to work on.

Rethink the part about being insane.

I feel your pain !!! A couple of years ago the same happened to me. When I got to the shop all the doors were open and almost all of my tools and equipment were gone. The thieves backed a truck to one of the garage doors and wiped me out. It's a bit late but ADT is on duty now. The alarm is so loud you can't stand to be in the building. It's also on the cell system so there are no ways to disable it. To date not a single thing has been recovered. I doubt anything ever will.

And just how much is termite protection on your policy?

I've loosened stuck brake cables with graphite type lube. You must remove the cable from the car and put the graphite on the cable itself and let it run down into the housing. Work the cable back and forth until it is free in the housing and you are good to go.

Easy fix. The pinion flanges are interchangeable.

The guys have it right. But you might check for vapor lock also. Not much airflow is a clue to higher than normal under hood temps. If you have points and cond. ignition then there is no ignition module. I've never had a module die slowly. They usually just quit. On the other hand old coils will give sporatic performance.

Early first generation Z's had a connection to the fuel pump at the airflow meter. I think that was changed in 77 and that connection was switched to the oil pressure switch. Hence the two wire connector. You could wire your SBC so that it could also work the same. If the oil pressure goes away the fuel pump will be turned off and the engine will also be shut off.

It helps to coat them with anti seize before pulling them through. Put it on the threads also. Put it on everything.

The daily driver really does'nt need anything special in the area of the oil pan. Ground clearance is your biggest worry. Lightly modified Chevy V8's will run forever with only 5 quarts of oil.

Not to change the subject of this thread, but anyone wanting an overdrive trans on their L6 can use an early 4N71B. Mid 80's from Maxima or Pathfinder. It's a direct bolt up to the L6. Some other mods are necessary. I've done it and it works great. 65 mph @ 1200 rpm.

If you've never done a trans rebuild you're in for a real learning experience. I would suggest leaning on a friend that has some experience. The 4L60 is not the easiest trans to do. There are several special tools required and a press is real handy. Absolute patience and attention to every detail is of the utmost. If you can find a transmission parts retailer in your area you won't have to buy two complete kits as suggested by the previous poster. Individual parts can be purchased if you do destroy something. Mainly lip seals because they are very soft and it doesn't take much to destroy them. As suggested a rebuild manual is very important. READ, READ,READ, and READ some more. Transmissions are a no nonsense devise. If it isn't done exactly right it won't work. If it is done right and it works then the satisfaction is wonderful. Good luck. If I can be of any help you can email me at Skipzcar@aol.com.

The next time I'm feeling that my luck is down I'm going to think of you.

Just remove the top plate that it sits in.

If it's a forged crank I'd keep it. There have been a lot of high horsepower 350's with GM forged cranks. Just have it checked and maybe polished. As for the 283 crank idea, they won't just drop in a 350. The mains are a different size. If my memory is still good I think Sealed Power made bearings for that conversion. Chevrolet already did that combination. It's called a 302. You might try to find a 302 crank. I think the mains will be the right size for the 350 block. Might be a bit pricey tho.

0010 blocks came with both 2 and 4 bolt main caps. Also both had forged and cast cranks. The only way to know for sure is to open it up and check. You never know what you'll find in an engine that old.

I go to the car show in Daytona every year. It's HUGH!!! Of all the cars there the one that sticks in my memory is a 1960 Falcon with a flathead. I say go for it!!