RebekahsZ

Quit fooling around and just go to coilovers. You will be glad you did. Back in the old days we had to make them ourselves. Now you can buy from TTT. I went straight to 250s and liked them, but I now run 450s and like them even better.

Block huggers make it easier to work on the car. There was a comparison somebody did on here a few years ago comparing block huggers against the group-buy stainless long tubes: I recall the difference was 17hp. For me, with 400hp, 17 wasn’t worth the fight. There’s a pretty good comparison on an Engine Masters YouTube program out there.

For most folks with a T56 it really doesn’t matter. I’ve run 3.90 and 3.54. With the 3.90, I used 6th gear a fair bit, but really didn’t need 1st gear. With the 3.54, I use 1st gear, but rarely get into 6th. With that low 1st gear and the super tall 6 th gear, and plenty of torque at any rpm, you will be fine with any ratio.

Building custom containment seat.

My engine came from the junkyard with an under-drive pulley.

Your link just took me back to the spacer page, but from what I remember, “made to order” was pricier. I don’t have my diff apart (there’s a chance I won’t even need the spacers), I’m just trying to have the parts on hand so it does sit like all my other projects. I want to do it all in one day once I get into it. As to to the issue of “clamp it down and hope for the best” without spacers. Well, I don’t operate that way. I’m one of those guys who hot laps all night long while other folks sit in the pits scratching their heads and cussing. However, I do have concerns about the Z31axles handling 600-700hp even on a rolling start, but that’s a matter for different day. And I don’t have 600hp yet, so it’s getting ahead of myself by a couple of years.

On my list to accomplish is 2018 is to install a 3.36 CLSD R200 into my Z. I have not torn into my 3.36 R200, but I am lead to believe that it will have I may have an issue with ring gear bolt incompatibility with my Z31 LSD carrier. I searched the FAQs on this issue and there were references to 10mm ID/12 mm OD spacers being available on McMaster Carr’s website. Well, I couldn’t find any. So, I turned to eBay and found some that so will try to use. I lost this only as a search reference for the next guy doing this modification.

After being off site for a while, I'm back. I just got the car back from the roll cage shop. I'm working on a custom containment seat and window net. Car is in a million pieces.

I don’t know. I have a T56 and the Johns Cars mount fit with minor modification. Don’t know a thing about an auto trans.

What do ya know-after checking all the hardware stores and paint stores, I found a can of 3M adhesive removed at Auto Zone. Alternating that with mineral spirits, I made a lot of headway today and I would say that one more session should do the trick. I ordered some of that Bestine-it should arrive in a couple days.

I will try that if I can find some dry ice in my little town. I understand it works on the floor. Since I need this on the inside of the roof, I will have to figure out how to hold it up there. Any pointers for that?

I'm pulling out my interior to have a roll bar installed. I won't be putting any interior back in. The vinyl above the windshield, along the a-pilars, and above the doors was installed with 3M spray adhesive in the 90s. Now, I can't get the adhesive off. Every solvent I have tried just makes the adhesive smear from place to place, but I can't dissolve it enough to get it off the painted metal. Anybody have a "miracle solvent" that I should try?

Still waiting on cage. He's worth waiting for. Called and nagged him this week and he told me he'd call me in a couple weeks. I doubt I will bring the car, but will try to come with or without it. Can I put a Datsun sticker on my S10? Will likely be in the Honda minivan.

Skyline-that body kit is insane! I have a bolt-on/bolt-off airdam that I use for standing mile. I have to transport the airdam in the bed of my truck and install it when I get to the event after my car is off the trailer. Even at 3" off the pavement, it is too low, when the front lip is way in front of the front tires, to allow loading/unloading. Perhaps someday I will make a version that comes on and off quickly with dzus fasteners. But other priorities at present.

Looks great so long as you never try to load it on a trailer or go over a bump on the street, or jump curbing at the track, or take out a cone.