RebekahsZ

While you have it apart, ask for some Chequered Flag stubs for Christmas. Be sure to put antiseize on the threads or they will gall, as SunnyZ found out.

It was just as easy for me to cut the ears completely off as to cut them off just a 1/4". Whatever works is fine.

I still advise you to go hang out in the pits at your local race track to get a better understanding of this stuff.

The 204-1003 requires that you cut the top of the tower up and the 1017 doesn't. I have been a big advocate for the 1017 but I am running into a snag with them: I am having to cut up the top of the strut tower anyway in order to access the adjuster screw on my new koni shocks. The adjuster on tokicos cleared stock sheet metal. Now I'm cutting anyway, so it is kind of a wash. Keep an eye on my build thread in the projects forums and when I'm finished in a couple of weeks I will post photos.

It gets tight. I would do it before putting trans in car.

Dang-that's a productive day!! I took a break to watch the Iron Bowl. Glad I did. Wow! Rebekah is a sophomore at Auburn. She's probably chuckin toilet paper as I type this.

That's the DP part number.

204-1017

Second rear shock installed.

I had a very small amount of room between the ears and the tunnel. I wasn't comfortable with such tight clearance, so I chopped them off. I too went with a Ford reverse switch. Only problem is that the wiring coming out of the plug needs to be changed. I put a weatherpack connector on the car side and a corresponding weather pack connector on the switch side. Once under the car they pluged right up and work great. I didn't have to do any hammering on that side of my tunnel. In fact, while I did plenty of hammering on the driver side high in the tunnel, it probably wasn't needed.

I wish we could swap vertebrae the way we swap motors. I would be first to sign up. And knees and shoulders and necks.

I've only gotten a few hours to work with the holiday, but I have one corner done. After cleaning out the strut tubes really well, it looks like there is misalignment of the upper section above the weld and the lower section below the weld. Perhaps the guy who I bought my coilovers from used a shock smaller than a koni to line them up for welding. Using the sanding drum with an extension (thanks for all the recommendations above) that I bought from Lowes, and my drill motor, I concentrated on the junction of the strut, especially the side that seemed to be pushed in. Working for a couple of hours, the koni slipped in a little, then grind more, then the strut goes a little deeper, grind more, then finally it went all the way in. To get a stuck strut out, I put a nut and washer on the strut rod and then put an open end wrench under it and "tap" with a dead blow hammer until it started moving. I reused the tubular spacer that I made for my tokicos, plus a handful of flat washers to fine-tune the spacing and it was done! Now to do the same thing 3 more times....

That is for a pair?

Take the doors off and remove the hatch and it will stop creaking. Cover the holes with duct tape. Otherwise, all zs creak.

Nothing. Home was invaded by aliens bearing food and well-wishes. Can't wait to get them out of here so I can get back out in the garage!😩

Best repair part I ever bought for my car was a trailer with a winch. Did wonders for my reliability.

My first fuel supply problem I found what looked like sand in my banjo fitting strainers where the fuel lines enter the carbs. Super easy to clean out. Have no idea how that crap got past the filter...I think it was actually pulverized flakesof grime from inside the tank.

If my wife dies before I do, I have her insured for enough to buy two of MTIs sequential T56 systems. The insurance company calls it a $50,000 policy; I call it my transmission upgrade plan. Anybody know a guy....?

If the mood strikes you, I would love to come support you for that race. Please let me know as it approaches.

Spend $49 and put a HF winch on your trailer. I love mine.

Sounds great. Do it ASAP and report back.

I would bet that JCI could make a better trans mount, but expect the cost to go up. When you are trying to make money with a low volume sales product, you gotta keep production costs down. We can do anything we want with a welder and some metal IF we price our own labor cost at zero dollars. You can do that on a hobby, but in a business. I am very happy with my JCI kit. I don't weld and I have had zero problems with it from a fit and reliability standpoint. Everything lined up in the car perfectly-and that is what I was most concerned about. I had trouble with the driveshaft that they originally sold me, but they were GREAT about standing by it and heavily discounting the replacement driveshaft. The fit and finish was fine, but it was not up to drag racing with a standard trans and slicks, but I don't think they planned for that item to get racing use and they never advertised it for such. Great customer service. I would definitely use them again.

I think ya gotta separate form from function on the whole redneck thing. I AM a redneck and I don't really like 'em. But, if they fit and are cheap it's hard to beat them. I think any of us who buy $900 cars and immediately put $1000 worth of wheels and tires need to have our heads examined, but everybody on this sight is guilty of it. For some reason, Spinworks wheels are not looked down on and I think they look very NASCAR. If I had no wheels and wanted to go autocross, I would buy a set of Bassetts in a heartbeat. No one complains about an ugly car if it is the Fast Time of Day. Do that and the next month half the club will be sporting Bassetts.

What is your goal date to have car back on the track? Rear suspension: any planned changes there?

There was a guy at an autocross last year near Memphis who had a 1st series 240z that weighed under 2000#. I want to say he had it down to 1989# but I'm not positive on that figure. That is with a 3.5 Nissan V6, steel hood and hatch with an auto power roll cage. He was racing in FP class.