RebekahsZ

Job is finished. I used extended ARP studs for an EVO and the reamer that was recommended. I started by using the recommended drill bit, but the hole I was expanding was close enough to what I needed, that I actually got cleaner holes just by using the reamer and skipping the re-drilling. Pressed in the studs using my press. Turned out pretty well. Only potential issue I see is durability. Comparing the short studs that came in the spacers to the ARPs that I replaced with: The original studs have longer, more coarse knurls than the ARPs. Perhaps there is a special spec for the knurls planned to be pressed into aluminum vs those planned to be pressed into steel? Anyway, the job is done. Interestingly, with the longer studs that I put in my billet stub axle flanges, it is possible for me to use all 8 studs when mounting the dual-pattern draglites. So, I ordered extra lug nuts and will be using all 8 studs on each side to secure the wheels. Draglites have a problem with loosing up and I have to re-torque several times during a race day. One of the used draglites I just bought appears to have loosened on the previous owner and banged around on the mounting flange some. Retorque-ing regularly is part of the racing game.

The guys running PS are running it because of super wide tires, not because of the V8.

I don't understand the last post.

Got your PM. If you have an auto trans, I would just stick with the R200 3.54 ratio that is likely what's in your car already. It is a good all around ratio for a V8 Z-car. You can run that until you start breaking things. Now, just because you have a v8, you can't assume that you have a lot of power. Lots of V8s put out as little as 200hp from the factory. Some corvettes were even made with that little power! Are you doing 1/4 mile or 1/8 mile?

Not arguing here. But what are you mounting high on the left where the power steering pump usually goes? Perhaps power steering?

I would discourage you from using that diff. Most of the guys at the strip hate them because they don't hold up. If you are going to put that much work into your car, do a 9" Ford or 8.8"Ford.

I can't help it-I watched the video, and I just want to see the spokes model's rearend.

Lots of different views-here's one more. Price the parts, put a value on your labor (or someone else's labor), then price a used ancient R180 Z-car replacement diff. Then price a Subaru R180 LSD and a set of johnc's axle adapter flanges (I think being sold by someone else now). You will LOVE that diff. Plus you can get one that is low miles and clean in and out. Finally-don't over analyse a noisy R180. I've had a bunch of them and they were all noisy,yet I've never had one fail. Consider a thicker carpet pad or turn up the radio and drive it till it fails.

Don't scrape up my headers-put some masking tape on them for test fitting, you wild brute! Do you need the big rubber bushing on the TC rod since you are running the adjustable TC rod? Seems to me that you could remove the big rubber bushing and gain lots of header clearance.

Stock bellhousing or aftermarket? I'm not a clutch expert. But, when I had trouble, I actually cut a 2.5"x3" hole in my stock aluminum bell housing so I could look inside and view the action of my clutch. It was very scary, but i had my daughter work thru the gears using the clutch with me under the car with the car running. I could verify engagement and disengagement. My new clutch supplier was super clear about babying the car for 500 miles at low rpm and being super gentle with the clutch in that break in period, although I don't know how a race team deals with that. That clutch has to FULLY disengage or it will be in a state of constant slippage and will warp the flywheel. Try loosening the bump stops at the top and bottom of the pedal travel to make sure you are fully utilizing the volume of your master cylinder.

SunnyZ posted some pics somewhere. His loop bolts to the tranny crossmember. Mine is shaped like a D and is welded to the passenger side of the tunnel and would be really hard to photo without a lift to get the car up really high (can't do it right now). The 240z tunnel is really narrow any the 280z has a lot more room. You will probably need to put something of your own design together because there isn't really a standard way to do it. Luckily my driveshaft broke while at the starting line so it stopped spinning pretty much immediately. The loop made it easy for me to be towed off the startingbline and winched up on my trailer. I think it would have still done some damage had it broken at speed. I guess what I'm saying is that my design is not something that I'm totally proud of. For NHRA it needs to be 2" wide and 1/4" thick and should be located within 6" of the front u-joint. It would be cool to have a safety loop for the rear end of the driveshaft too but it isn't required.

If you plan to race that thing, think about up grading the slip yoke on the driveshaft-I've twisted two off. You're a good enough welder to make a driveshaft safety loop.

That looks great!!

Does the rubberized stuff scrape off pretty easily? If so, I can just consider it a every-two year maintenance task to replace it.

I hate all undercoat but I've got to get a plan to stop all the chips in my wheelwell. Wasn't a big problem until I started runni g race rubber which picks up EVERYTHING and throws it at the paint. Would I be better using a tar based product? Looking for advice, maybe even from the racers. I sure don't want to promote rust!

Cap it. Why would you want to spend a lot of time on a component that does so little? Spend your time on the parts that make the car GO! Z dashes crack, so your $700 new one will to. My half dash cap is held on by the gauge pods and the defroster vents. No glue, no screws. It doesn't rattle or squeak. It has looked sharp for 20 years-no cracks.

I'm exhausted just from watching. When threshold braking, how the heck do you manage to brake MORE to avoid rear-ending traffic? So many close calls-I'm spent!

Can you put CF over the wood?

It's easy, just ask the road race guys. Sometimes it isn't hp that wins the night-it's the guy who doesn't break. (Not to be confused with brake-it's best if the car stops). If your brakes are marginal we can go to Lawrenceburg-the slow down area is up-hill, brakes sent really required there. There's a SBC z-car here we can take turns spankin'. I better watch it, he keeps threatening to spray it!

My stuffs in a million pieces right now, but lets do some heads up racing this spring! Lets start scouting for tracks. The tracks down here are pretty lax-don't know how the tracks near you are. Start breaking in that clutch. I'm psyched for you. BTW-I don't own a FSM.😜

You gotta start all over-the FSM says to use 5W30 in the strut tubes. Congrats-Lets Race!

Oh goodness, I don't know.

When I did my disc brake conversion, I assembled the brakes with the stub axle nut only hand tight just for mock-up. The brakes dragged miserably. I hit the nuts with an air impact wrench (carefully) and the brakes stopped dragging. I can't get a torque wrench on the nuts until the brakes are fully working to restrain tire rotation. But, it appears that the torque on that nut makes a big difference in the lateral locating of the flange, and I imagine bearing preload too. I wouldn't make any final decisions until you put 200 ft-lbs on that sucker. Use antiseize and be super careful starting that nut straight and smoothly! I don't want to bugger a stub axle (again).

Yesterday, I got up early and drove over to Memphis and met with Z-Enthusiast, a new member who just bought Clay's wheel-standing 280z out of the Chattanooga/North Georgia area. Took a look at the location of the battery disconnect switch and decided which switch to buy from looking at his method. Bought the used drag radials and rear wheels (since Z-Enthusiast is going back to IRS from the 9-inch), and the front wheels and front runners. Kept the front wheels and tires (my tires are getting worn) and traded the rear wheels and tires for some 15X8 5.5BS Weld draglites and some 28X10.5X15 MT ET Drags. I spent a little money in the process, but it was good to save a little by going with used parts and having something to trade off. I basically got everything for about 50% off new prices. The slicks look basically new; the Welds are pretty beaten up, but I'll be running 10# of air in them, so I'm not sure how important it is to have a round rim(?). Today's goal is to get the wheels drilled for tubes and bead screws, then to finish up the spacer/adapters with new studs. Did I mention that compared to 26X9X15 slicks, 28X10.5X15 slicks are MASSIVE? If they are just absolutely too big, my next option to getting better gearing is to install a 3.36 R200. SunnyZ fit them, but he had to move his rear wheels back an inch in the wheelwell. My plan is to trim the forward edge of the fender sheetmetal when I do the flares. Just ordered my battery disconnect switch from a boat company (the taillight surround panel makes the rear of the Z thick like a boat transom). Feelin' the domino effect big time.

If you have coilovers, that Rota group buy offset wastes a lot of space between the tire and the strut. BUT if you want the Rota RBR look, I don't know of another option.