RebekahsZ

Coilover.

I think you should just cut your losses and give up being a z-car guy and call me just to get that car out of your life. Think of all the fun you could have playing chess and shuffleboard as I drive your car with an evil grin on my face!😜If you decide to walk away, I could have the trailer hooked up in about 2 seconds.

What are the advantages of a direct port system over a plate system (honest question)?

I have a GTO tranny. I don't like how short second gear is. Watch my videos on youtube and you will see how fast second gear is-you gotta really concentrate and be on the ball to make that 2-3 shift on time.

Sunny-you need to just buy a Jericho.

You are welcome to try, but the stock strut tower has limited room inside to move things around. It pretty much takes all of your space to get 3 degrees of camber. With additional lowering I can get a total of 3.7 degrees out of the DP plates in front. You might get a degree or two of caster out of the camber plate, but no where near the 8-9 degrees that is recommended in the Suspension FAQ. I was able to achieve 4.5 degrees of caster with a combination of adjustable TC rods and the DP camber plates-any more than that will take some sheet metal cutting. Car does not push (understeer) any more. I am now looking at a staggered wheel setup to try to keep rear end under me at the autocross-I have more trouble with rear tire traction when going straight than I have with lateral traction.

Only a bit by rotating them by one bolt hole. I don't see folks adjusting caster with any style camber plate-I think that aspect is a bunch of hype. Use the cyber plate for camber and an adjustable TC rod for caster. Adjusting caster sounds important but it creates more clearance headaches when you put larger wheels on. You start having rubbing on the airdam then next thing you know you gotta take a sawzall to all your sheet metal. Adjusting caster was probably the rage when guys put 13" wheels on their z cars but the-17s you need to clear big brakes makes caster increases a real headache. Before adding the camber and caster, the car was a pig-pushing thru all turns at autocross-I could only get thru turns by slowing WAY down prior to entry-now brakes are the limiting part because I can haul ass right up to the limit.

Your car looks great. Please post more pictures of the project!

Bolt right in. All camber plates sound like a coffee can full of rocks when driving over gravel. It is the solid mounting that makes them noisy. Not noisy at all on a smooth road.

The EMIs were not available a year ago. But, the DPs are virtually identical in form and function. I think the website for the DPs is dpperformance.com or something close to that. I have EMIs in front and DPs in back-Im pleased with both.

"I don't want no scrub. Scrub is the one that won't get no love from me. Hangin' out the passenger side of yo best friends ride. Tryin to holla at me." -TLC

You need to run around at an autocross and study your options in the flesh. It all becomes clear when you look at the actual item.

I wrapped one and loved how much it cooled the engine compartment-could touch header with a bare hand. A hole blew thru it at the first bend from exhaust valve within a year. They speak truth.

There is a billet crossmember on eBay if you want to go that way.

Calm down, fellas, lets be friends...,everybody gets testy when the tracks shut down for winter.

Any chance the car is just hydroplaning?

You need to change your avatar to "Energizer Bunny!"

You're not a puss. I just dropped my truck off to get a new fuel pump. A guy can only handle so many open projects. This is supposed to be fun. When you hit a wall get help. When I put an LS in my truck, I'm gonna farm it out.

To put on my slicks, I have to adjust my camber all the way in, "roll" my fenders, perfect the wheel offset and run stock brakes. It was the AZC brakes that were the straw that broke the camel's back. As soon as I put those on, I had to put spacers on to run 15" wheels (drag wheels). That forced me into flares. But on the up side: flares should allow me to be sloppier on my setup. I shouldn't HAVE to adjust my camber all the time unless I just want to. Plus, I am so traction limited with the 16" wheels for autox and with 9" wide slicks at drag. With flares, I can use the group buy sized 17s. Just want more options. I'm looking at 10.5" slicks and am starting with 275/17s with the option of going all the way to 315/17s. Also looking at a set of 275 MT Drag Radials for use at the 2-mile drag strip in Dalton, GA this coming Fall-hoping to find my air resistance to hp limit 150?. Keeping tires in the stock wells has been a major PITA. I want the freedom to run whatever I want. Now, there may be times when I don't "fill" the wheelwell, but I'm not flaring for looks. Sorry my work computer is stuck in italics mode.

Remove the carpet and sound proofing yourself. It takes 5 minutes to remove carpets and 5 months and a lot of cussing to remove the tar paper. I respect my welder too much to ask that of him at any price. Do the dirty work yourself and save skilled work for skilled people. And pay them well.

I will be using Harbor Freight nutserts on mine, simply because they are cheap and easy-they are aluminum so they are easier to work with (and drill out if you goof). And don't call yourself a rook-I've owned a Z for over 20 years and I feel like I'm a stupid question factory. We just don't want to screw up our babies or spend more on return shipping than necessary.

Found extension and 1-1/2" drum sanding kit at lowes across lunch. Having trouble finding flap wheels but will look at fastenal tomorrow. There is scratched paint on the shock at the bottom weld as you indicate - will be sure to dress that. Johnc-am I likely to get any guff when I send in my konis for rebuild in a few years and all the paint has been removed? I'm considering that a last resort. I also worry about them rusting in, even if I grease the pee out of them.

Ah, I was just trying to get a chuckle out of you. My sandersons have RTV only too and they don't leak either. Or burn wires. Maybe that's the key!

74_5.0L_Z - I think it is actually that extra thick copper-enriched RTV acting like an insulator that is keeping your wires safe. I've heard the black doesn't work as well and more heat transfers over from the header flange.

So how did you handle access to the lower shock adjuster?