RebekahsZ

Do a google search "MTI sequential T56" or something like that, and watch the video. You will be looking for a hitman too.

I think your clutch is slipping😜

Get rid of the HPS pads-they suck. I would run autozone pads before HPS. Or consider HP-Plus. Totally different pad.

What's the worst thing that would happen if you put it back together and drive it?

My flange was very bent and it gave no "feel". Stopped fine with no pulsing with drums but was simply out of the question with discs.

Yes, buy a sawzall.

Rather than waste my time with an L6, I hope to have a solid axle Z-to have the best of both worlds. LS is the universe!!

Thanks Jon. These studs won't be going into the Datsun hubs-they go into some billet spacer/adapters I bought to allow me to use 15" drag wheels over the AZC big brake kit. I'm forced into a larger knurl by the large diameter but short studs that came in the spacers. I'm now waiting on the drill bit and reamer that beermanpete recommended. Ordered day before yest at McMaster Carr. Thanks!!

Dang! That's a nice interior.

I wonder if you could just grind a little off that. A pretty good way to tell if the stub is bent is to mount the brake disc and see how much it wobbles. If it doesn't wobble much you might be able to clearance that and keep rolling? When I did my first disc brake conversion, I found one stub was bent pretty badly with excessive runout of the brake rotor-had to swap it.

OK. Cell phone is dead or I would have tried to send pictures-too much hybridz.org during the work day. But, in my 1972 240z with stock "frame rails:" The front of the bellhousing is level with the bottom of the F-body Camaro engine oilpan. The oilpan angles slightly up going as you trace back toward the back of the car. The junction of the oilpan and bellhousing are about 2" below the frame rails, 1-1/4' below the front crossmember. The transmission narrows as it heads back and is fully inside the tunnel. The transmission widens a bit at the junction of the gearbox to the tailhousing. At that junction, the transmission is level with the bottom of the frame rails, or perhaps less than an inch up from the bottom of the frame rails (exhaust makes it hard to be super accurate). With the exception of the junction of the bellhousing to the oil pan and the junction of the gearbox to the tailhousing, the transmission is fully up inside the trunnel. I did not hammer in the tunnel where the tunnel meets the firewall. I had the car all the way up on jackstands and let the diveshaft seal scrape the gound and I had to be carefull not to crack the intake manifold on the hood latch bracket because the angle of insertion (that sounds creepy) was so steep to get the motor in. I did manage to break off the hood prop holder on the radiator support with the front of the oilpan in the process. After the 10th or 12th time, I got pretty good at installing the engine. It was super tough with poly motor mounts on the last try. Not looking forward to getting the long F-body engine mount bolt on the driver side back out-I had to hammer it in. Next time motor is out, I plan to ream that hole out a bit to make that easier-tolerances are too tight there. Hope that helps. Oh yeah, I had to remove all of my shifter to clear the brake lines on the firewall-it was that tight. Then, I reinstalled my shifter thru the stock shifter hole. One bolt is kind of touch to get a good angle on. The front u-joint on the driveshaft is very close to the cigarette lighter well in the tranny tunnel. Think about that clearance before you lock everything down. Tight clearances in the 240z tunnel limited me to a 3" driveshaft, whereas SunnyZ was able to fit a 3.5" in the 280z tunnel which is much wider. I filled my tranny before installing the engine and plugged the driveshaft end of the tranny with a spare slip yoke that I have-get a good one or you will break it later-the standard cast JCI yoke is not up to the rigors of regular race duty (I've broken two of them and now run a hardened billet slip yoke). I put a wire thru it to tie it to the holes in the tranny under the shifter so that it wouldn't slide out and dump oil on the floor. Then I quickly swapped in the driveshaft and didn't spill a drop. Hope that helps.

For me it's from multiple minor injuries from trying to be a hero when I was younger. Matt, for you it is more likely either from Seal School, or perhaps from all that pole dancing you do at the club. Word on the street is that you plan to finance your rebuild at a rate of $1 at a time!

I got my parts from a junkyard for a grand total of $300 on the repair. But, I had a lot more energy then. Perhaps the Airforce will ship you off to Japan and you can ship a nice JDM Z car home for free?!!!

I was thinking about trying to tease you, but that would be hypocritical. I too, have made an off-road excusion going backwards into the trees. Luckily I missed all the trees (and it was all luck), but I broke two rims and my airdam when I smashed into a curb on the way to the woods. Also snapped the rear cast iron strut off below the hub in the webbing near the spindle pin. I replaced the broken strut, had the wheels straightened fiberglassed the airdam back together. Still driving it-evidently the chassis wasn't hurt. Your biggest problem is rusted frame rails. If I were you I would replace anything visibly bent and get back to driving it. Start budgeting for some rust repair. Now about that wreckless driving. I'm older now and I get my rocks off driving on the track. In fact, my street tires are so skinny that I'm afraid to take a corner any faster than other folks in traffic-I just sort of putt around driving to and from work-any more than that brings out the guys with the blue lights. "Drifting" is for guys who really don't care about their cars. If you want to jeopardize your nice antique car, think about getting a clapped out Ford Escort-they do great handbrake turns, and you won't lose anything you cant live without. With street drifting, it isn't a question of "if", it is a question of "when" and "where." You are gonna wreck.

IDK-I used JCI kit so I wouldn't have to figure that stuff out and it has worked out fine. From the look of how close your shifter is to the hole in the tunnel, it looks like all is well.

Obviously I'm not a machinist-I'm sort of a hack.

Good idea, but the existing holes in the adapters are .522 - larger than a 1/2 bit. That's been the pickle all along.

I never thought of using the shifter well to add oil! Good to know. I guess to know when tranny is full, you remove the fill plug and get a buddy to tell you when it is spilling over?

Hahaha! I guess you didn't explain that thumbs down means: "Go Faster!" I'm just glad she didn't blow chunks into your electronics. You are a real prankster!

Only of something new comes out and ya just gotta have it!

Think about opening up the shifter hole so you can replace your shifter without dropping the tranny.

I will look into it. Now we are pretty much even money with buying smaller studs. I need to measure and see how big the existing holes are. Thanks for the good info. Have never used a reamer-have no idea how it differs from a drill but I will research it. Thanks!

Ok guys. Beermans spec is correct according to ARP tech support. But guess what-there ain't no drill bits available from .556-.558! Talked to ARP on this and they say that engineers do stupid stuff like that all the time. Back to the drawing board. There is a .507 knurl stud available for miata at 2.75" instead of 3" length-that would allow for a .500 drill bit. Will measure everything out and see if I could use those. It's only money!!!

Have both rear koni shocks in the strut tubes and torqued with the gland nut. Those spanner wrenches were the ticket- thanks johnc! Working now to create a slot in the top of the strut tower for the koni adjuster to poke thru. Also drilling an extra set of holes for the DP camber plate to bolt into. Hoping to change the rear camber adjusting process from a 2-man, 1-hour job to a 1-man, 15-minute job. Also cutting out a portion of the inner fender to give me more room for my hand up inside the strut tower. Photos when time allows.

I need to know what size drill bit to use for an ARP wheel stud with an advertised knurl of 0.565". Will be pressing into a 1.25" thick billet aluminum spacer.