RebekahsZ

You can use that thing by you right knee with the knob on it to make minor adjustments in gear ratio when needed. All ya gotta do to make your diff ratio all wrong is to change tracks or events. And forget about using 6th gear, unless you get a 4.38 diff, in which case, you can forget about using 1st.

Sounds great! Brand and pics of catch can? I need one for my truck.

Consider increasing the leverage of the pedal assembly and delete the booster altogether? With Wilwoods, I barely need any pedal pressure at all. I have to really concentrate not to lock em up when racing. Pads make a big difference. Race pads make a lotta dust and are noisy (screeeeeech coming to a stop). Street pads don't make as much dust, last a long time, are quieter, but don't stop as well. Race pads stop better when really hot (as in not on the first lap), street pads stop better when cold, as in a panic stop.

Ah, if we spend all our time trying to get these cars perfect we will never get to drive them. I'm not arguing that it doesn't matter for a car trying to go 200mph or trying to win a national championship. But it probably doesn't matter for the majority of guys on the forum. I bet most cars that pass you on the way to work don't have alignments that are accurate to 2mm. Or have even ever been on an alignment rack.

Craig, those inner fender parts are junk yard items. Or, you can post a WANTED ad in the classified section of this forum. You really do want to use them as they reduce rusting after the collection of dirt and mud in places that tend to get trapped and cause rust out. Finally, if you aren't prepared to spend $60 on weather stripping, you need to sell your Z and buy a Honda. Keeping an old car up is expensive. It's just the facts.

Welcome aboard! The Z car is too old and too worthless to take to shops. This is really a forum for do-it-yourself-ers. You can do those rear brakes yourself for next to nothing and can learn a lot in the process. Don't take your Z to anybody-you will totally get screwed. Get a Z car maintenance book and follow the directions. It really is as easy as baking a cake. We can help you when you run into snags.

2mm....Id blow that tiny bit off. Reconsider if it wears tires out or pulls consistent with the misalignment. 2mm is the width of your string...hardly significant. Your toe will change a little as you accelerate, decelerate or hit bumps, even with metal bushings. If you are sliding or spinning out, the alignment doesn't matter THAT much. IMHO.

I think you are spot-on JMortensen-it was originally a tapered hole for a stock tie rod. It just dawned on me that I'm mixing parts from different suppliers. The bumpsteer adjustment bolt and heim joint tie rods come from dpracing. The first part of the kit is to drill the tapered hole for a 5/8" bolt. I'm gonna look at the TTT version of the steering knuckle with integrated bumpspeer spacer to see how they handle this. I may just need to have an angle machined into the steering knuckle. But, I have no idea how much removing the material will weaken the knuckle... And, BTW, I put the washer on so that you guys could see the angle clearly.

No, I don't think so. All that work might get me to 180 or so. Lotsa money just to push the record up marginally. The next couple years will be chassis development only. Likely won't see the record go up unless someone else does it. I may take this power plant to Loring, Maine for a 1-1/2 mile run before pulling it. That would be 2 years, more safety, and a different diff ratio from now. Just gotta hope nobody else gets into the game by then. Once I go 200 with a turbo motor, I hope to put this stock motor back in it. I love this motor. 9 months on blocks and it started on the first crank.

That's AWESOME! Enjoy it while it lasts.

Yes, turbo is a couple years down the road, but that's the plan. It will take one to go 200. The track record at Ohio is 244mph. Ordered the chute today from Stroud via Delaware Chassis Works.

3.54.

I bought these AZC billet steering knuckles in prep for my big "bump steer elimination" project. I'm also excited about using rod-end style outer tie rods to get the angle out of my stock outer tie rods to reduce inner tie rod angle/wear at lowered ride height. Anyway, I'm not loving the angle on these knuckles in relation to the spacer washers. I'm thinking about having a little of the aluminum milled off so that the washers fit flat against the knuckle. Anybody else with experience with this product? Advice before I get them milled?

I texted you an incorrect measurement on the fronts. Total length from top of camber plate to the bottom of the assembly where the steering knuckle bolts on is 22.25" on my car in full extension. I just double checked myself on that. Front car in this pic is a stock '71. My car in back at this weeks autocross in back. It was fun getting to drive both cars to see the difference that 25 years of development with the help of hybridZ can make. The difference was about 10 seconds on a course with fastest times of 52 seconds and a lot of cars running 74 seconds. I think the un-modified Z ran around 65 seconds, the modified Z was in the 52s with an occasional clean run.

Car off stands and reassembled. Aligned on new lift. Ran autocross Saturday. Car did fine. Driver was average at best. Always lots of fun. Used lift to help fix a buddy's Mountaineer after church. Z is up on lift to pull gas tank for mods anticipating need for second fuel pump and to allow fabricator to instal parachute mount/trailer hitch. Gonna call him today to see what his backlog looks like. need to get chute on hand and rear spoiler installed prior to sending it off to him. Next milestone is Ohio Mile or GA 1/2-mile in Sep.

Another option for tightening the strut rod nut is to get a piece of flat stock and cut it into a wrench that will fit the flats on the rod that are just below the bearing in your picture. Home-made custom single purpose wrench. You will have a box full of such tools after a few years of hybridZ living.

To tighten the nut that attaches the strut rod to the camber plate: hit it with an air impact wrench. Don't go crazy-just a quick "braap!" on the low torque setting. If the rod fits the bearing correctly, there's not a lot of force here to make the nut come loose. I will be in my shop this afternoon trying to line my car up. Let's get some full droop measurements on the front now. Then we can compare. I bet you will be ok up front. My car ran 8" front springs for a few years.

Most of the pins/studs are missing. You would need 2-sided tape to affix these. Email me if you want them.

I don't speak "stretch." That's a ratsun subject. Get wheels that fit your tires, or tires that fit your wheels. The tire manufacturer should be able to recommend a wheel width recommendation.

Ok to leave zerks if they clear your wheels.

No luck at Dexter's?

You can put masking tape all over it to protect that pretty paint job! Call me when you get to town 256-366-4685 so we can link up. I will have a couple of helmets so we can do a joy ride.

MiKelly achieved a nice race lowering of his 280z just by installing camber plates and ditching the insulators. He did not section when he did his coilovers. Check the forums for pics of his gray car.

Z is reassembled for first time since ZCON in July. I just gotta align it and snug up some hardware. And maybe s test drive or two. I'm going to the Porsche show and racing the Z. Wanna join me in your Z?

Send me an email requesting emblems with your address. I gotta mail some other stuff this week, so I will be boxing and shipping. Lemme know if there's any other small stuff you need-im stripping a 75 280z to put the chassis in dry storage as a future drag car. Can send them to you while I'm at it. I will give you all the emblems off my 280z for free just cause I love hybridZ. Pkeiththompson@yahoo.com