RebekahsZ

Doesn't matter-you are fine with the 50s. Might help if those struts are a little short too. I have my car in the air if you need my static settings on my struts. We have same spring rates so I should be able to get you close. Feel free to call me-I won't be watching the forums continuously. Hoping to get my car into 4 tires and in the alignment rack today.

Beautiful build!

I have to say, that I really don't like all that speed. 174 was freakin scary in my car (and I'm hoping to go 26 mph faster before too long). The fastest Ive hauled down into a turn on a road course is about 150 at Memphis which has a 1/4-mile drag strip as the back-stretch. I don't have a working speedometer, so that speed is based on gear and rpm. So much critical shit happening to late brake a car from those speeds! And to think that Im the guy who tightened (maybe?) all the bolts on this POS! I'm comfortable going in a straight line at 150, but the difference in how solid my car is at 150 and how squirrel-ie it is at 170 is like night and day. Please be careful (if that is possible). If I could design a track, the fastest you could go would be about 100 before you had to turn. I like everything about AMP except the fast off-camber section that has all the tire marks leading into the guard rail (I baby that part). I just like my life, my car, and my friends too much. Hoping to compete in an autocross next Sat that last year had a 90-degree turn after a straight section where I hit 75. Just beyond that turn is a 3-foot ditch, a curb and a busy street. If there had been a safe-zone beyond the cones, Ida hit 80 easy. Hoping the rectify that section this year.

Looks great!

I need to update too-thanks.

By COMPLETELY closing off the front of my car, and with a tailwind, I only increased my terminal velocity 7 mph in the standing mile. Car went 167 with grill totally open and 174 with it closed. Can't say how much credit the tailwind should get. Second day of event had a 14 knot headwind-car went 167 as it did with grill open. Overheating WAS an issue with no grill opening, but a 3"x10" opening solved that. I would like to experiment in future to know how small I can make opening using progressive taping-maybe next meet I can do that. Wish I had a way to measure airspeed instead of groundspeed. Would make this tangent discussion more meaningful. But suffice it to say that the lack of grill closure isn't gonna hamper your fun one bit.

Trial and error works faster than all this head scratching.

Compression of the springs still happens. I would just slap it together, then set ride height by trial and error.

I stand corrected. Glad the alternator isn't a problem. Mine was tight even with JCI mounts! I think that clamp can go anywhere that it can contact the crossmember as it was designed.

That clamp is definitely needed. Big write-up within last few years was done where I guy had a car that wandered all over the road after rebuilding the rack. Found that the clamp was missing-replaced the clamp and problem was solved. I'm concerned about alternator clearance on the rack-hope you guys aren't using the low-mount stock F-body alternator-I'm pretty sure it's not gonna fit.

From my experience-take those HPS back and get your money back. Worse pads than bottom shelf AutoZone. They are made to last a long time (the S is for street) or (shit). They had ZERO bite on my car and I couldn't freakin' stop. Get one of Hawks race pads. Porterfield R4 or R4S stop well, but are VERY dusty. Especially the R4.

Woop! Woop!

That IS cool! Well, the shipping estimate for the air assisted transmission jack came in from Greg Smith and was a wopping $150 shipping, and they wanted me to have a forklift to meet the truck; so I scrapped that plan. I wound up getting a Ranger RTJ-1 1-ton trans jack, which is not air-assisted, but what the heck, I need the excercise. Cheaper and will come from Summitracing.com next week. With the money I saved I went ahead and got a Sunnex Fuel Tank Adapter to attach to my transmission jack to make removal and installation of my fuel tank (an awful job) easier, I hope. Now if I can go back to 1972 and get the Nissan engineers to make that rubber fuel filler hose 3/4" longer.... I need to pull the tank from the blue car to allow fabrication of the chute mount and I need to have the tank modified for a second fuel pump. I freakin' hate dropping that tank, so hopefully this will function as advertised and make that job a lot easier. I just re-established contact with the discount MDF custom cabinet maker I used to cabinet-up the garage on the house, so designing the cabinets is next. Along with ordering the air compressor; laying out my compressed air manifold will have to wait until the cabinets are done. It looks like I will be getting the BelAire 7.5, 80gal compressor with the sound cover on the compressor assembly. Supposed to be only 69dB. Working with TonyD as advisor for all the air accessories like dryers and filters. He's been very generous with good advice, and I'm thankful for that. I'm all rested up at the beach (I was about to f-ing drop before this vacation) and I'm getting fired up about Z-cars again!

They either will fail or they won't. I don't think it is unreasonable to run whatcha got for a while. Worst thing that can happen is to throw a wheel off. Its funny when parts fail-some folks have trouble with light usage and some can beat hell out of stuff and get away with it-I don't think there is always a rhyme or a reason to it. I just didn't like the idea of having a wheel roll past me and for me to be scraping the bottom of my car down the road as I frantically try to get to the side of the road in a car I've dedicated 25 years to. My advice is to run whatcha got, but save up for a pair and get on CFs waiting list for the next batch. I've got to do the same thing for his CV axle kit-I understand that he hasn't done a production run of those yet either. We are a low-demand consumer group, so we can't expect vendors to have inventory waiting. If I put a deposit on some axles and get them in a year or two, I need to be OK with that. All the driveline carnage I have seen personally has been at the line, so zero mph. Wfrittz broke a u-joint on a shift at least once at the strip once on street tires, my buddy cocked an open R200 differential cross-shaft at probably 70mph and destroyed a halfshaft at the strip (that is actually the final death of a worn-out part, not a traumatic breakage), I've seen posts of several other guys breaking stub axles at the starting line on a nitrous launch, and johnc discusses breaking stubs on road courses with L24-level power (and has a video of that). None of the breakages have been fatal and all cars were returned to driving condition.

My billet stubs from CF don't have them. I think it's a safety thing from Nissan that you can risk living without. You'll be noticing things a more pedestrian driver might overlook. Plus, you are gonna be inspecting periodically to be sure you aren't slinging oil from a bearing for very long.

I think those sheet metal pieces try to keep grease from a bad seal from slinging into your brake drums.

Where did you get your rocker skins?

I'm all for a Viper, but not in black-you will be a slave to keeping that clean. Walk away.

When you said the word "annoying" I ran the other way. I just ordered the air-assisted foot-controlled unit sold by Greg Smith Equipment for $575+truck freight. Hard to believe, but I hope to design the next front diff mounting system for the long-nose R200 to superceed the RT mount. Goal is to allow swapping a diff as fast as possible. So, I will be using it a LOT. Then, once the new mount is designed, I hope to use it to allow me to rapidly swap between a 3.54, 3.36 and 3.18 ratio R200 CLSD, for drag, autocross and landspeed, respectively.

Yeah, the companion flange needs to come off first. One side of mine always needs a puller and the other comes right off in my hand.

With that much tire, you may start wanting some brakes. Not intended as criticism-your car is awesome! I can serve as a reference for the AZC brake kits-easy upgrade with perfect, no hassle-bolt on.

I typically have to pry the diff carrier out with a 1x1 wooden pry bar. I usually have to coerce them back in with a rubber mallet. If it turned easy when you started it should turn easy when you are done.

If the bearings are smooth, just re-use what is there. Good R200s are common enough to make the cost of a re-build unadviseable.

I'm at the beach right now. But, I think my struts (240z) with coilovers measure 24" total extended length from the bottom of the strut tube to the top of the strut rod. With your strut extended, what is the measurement from top to bottom? With the strut out of the car, put a tape measure on it and tell me what you get.

Pictures would help too! Are you building a race car or a low-rider/custom?