RebekahsZ

Lookin good. Can't believe how fast you are going! It took me three days just to get my line lock wired!

Passenger side is a universal poly mount from autozone. Same exact mount as JCI sent, just now it is poly. I think it is energy suspensions brand. Driver side is prothane brand.

Honestly, it isn't that loud when cruising either. But it wakes the dead in boogie mode and wakes my neighborhood when I crank it. I was hoping the 2-step would spit some flames, but none so far. Im glad i used poly motor mounts as the 2-step really gets things rocking around; got a feelin my pipes would be slappin the rockers without the poly mounts. Was looking at a rearend gearing chart: the one I'm using is spot on. The 3.90 is too short for 1/8 mile in 3rd gear, but it ought to be just right for 1/4 mile in 4th gear. I hope it is warm enough to go to Alabama International in 2 weeks for some 1/4 mile seat time.

Funny, I was just talking to a fellow dragracer at the strip just yesterday who was trying to unload (sell off) a tube-chassis 280ZX that had a Mustang II front suspension. He said the car ran great and straight under power, but that the car wanted to run off the side of the track under braking and was quite scary. It could be anything from improper alignment to worn parts that would cause that. I just thought is was interesting that this thread came up just a day after. I'm happy with how my stock-style front suspension works. It is very light and behaves predictibly-if it ain't broke, don't fix it!

Bump for added video.

Love the white faced guages!

Went to strip again-posting results in Motorsports section again. Here's a teaser: IMG_0860.MOV

I've tried that and I can't keep the spin going. I need lessons.

Couple things. First: looks AWESOME! Second, I need to learn how to use an air hammer-your dents look good, mine done with a 3# sledge look aweful. Can you pm me with a pic of the tool and tip you used? I'm gonna need to clearance some for exhaust. Finally, if you ever think you might put a roll cage in the car, you should consider narrowing your dash so the front legs can come down ahead of the front door edge-wish I had done that. I do everything backwards!

Best way to avoid whel hop is to hook up. Lower your launch rpm until you don't spin.

Hooray! Congrats. Did I understand you right: you didn't have to cut out the stock 240z trans mount?

Is it appropriate to discuss the BEST way to search? There is no BEST on hybridz.org. Just kidding. Thanks for the tips on using the google search; that will help me a lot.

Rev it up to 6000 rpm and drop the clutch. If it survives you are fine. If it breaks, thats bad. This is why manual trans cars break axles and autos typically don't. Backlash. A solid front diff mount amplifies the issue.

It may be more work, but try installing it and just giving it a try. My pushrod needs to be adjusted, but I don't have time, so I just have a low pedal (but I still have enough). Nice thing is that it puts the pedal at a great height for toe-heeling. One thing I would suggest is to modify your lines to allow you to run flexible lines at the master cylinder. That will let you remove the master to adjust the rod later without having to bleed brakes after every adjustment. Maybe I'll get mine adjusted this winter.

Oh, we've beaten this to death... Seems not every car is the same. My LCAs are shortened 1/2" from stock 240z. My M2 axle shafts are 1" and 1-1/8" shorter than stock Z31. There is no way that I could have used stock shafts with stock axle shafts with either my shortened LCAs or stock LCAs, so I'm backing JMortensen. But, I think everybody's situation is different, so we should all strive to measure for our particular car setup. Be sure to mock up before final assembly: remove your coil springs and jack the suspension from full droop to full compression to ensure that the axle still has a little slack (but not too much) before bottoming out (binding) on the companion flange adapter. M2 did a great job for me; I hope the Driveshaft Shop can supply my future needs.

That was a good one!!! I'm shopping for a helmet now (hope I get the right Snell - 2005 or later right?). Going to new track this Sunday, I hope they are not too uptight. You know: Bubba doesn't like to mess up his mullet. But everybody wears a firesuit jacket. I'm looking for a retro pit crew jacket from the 60s.

Matt-get busy on that 9-inch conversion - make a new build thread with lots of photos and make is simple so the rest of us can copy you. In the meantime, get some slicks to stop the wheelhop. You won't hop if you hook-up!

JMortensen, wouldn't SUNNY's outer CV end-cap/grease cap show some damage (dents) if his axle was bottoming out?

Hmmmm. I wonder how jnjdragracing and 1QUICKZ get around this rule? I wonder what it would take (for anybody in my neck of the woods) to break out a rule book and run somebody off? I can't remember the last time I saw somebody rockin' a helmet.

Matt, was that an original, 40-year old u-joint? It may not have mattered.

Why we beating up a brother? When I rebuilt my 4-bolt cv axles and did the m2 short shaft conversion, I flipped my cages. Flipping the cages shortened my axles an additional 1/8" (I measured). So, I'm confirming what JMortensen said above. If you are autocrossing lengthened LCAs are ok, cause you need about 3 degrees neg camber anyway, but if you are gonna shock the drivetrain with drag race style driving, you really should limit rear camber, so lengthening the rear LCAs ain't such a good concept at least in theory. See if JMortensen has any short shafts left that he can sell you. If not, try pm-ing Sunnyz to learn about the driveshaft shop shortened axles or contact them directly. My m2 axles have about 40 passes on them and are doing fine, but my LS2 motor is stock, not making near the power that some of the other cars on this forum are making. Best of luck with your project.

My new screen saver! Love the wrap on those slicks and how light the front end looks. Don't like the squat so much especially considering you static camber. Must have a ton of torque to get all that transfer. What was your mph on that 11.0 1/4-mile pass? Your friend is an awesome photographer to catch that shot when all that magic is happening. I went straight enough this week to start dropping air pressure. What are your spring and shock settings-i wanna copy? Boss.

Having been thru what you are going thru, I have decided that airdams are to be treated as expendable-kind of like tires. I just plan to replace mine regularly. I've stopped painting them - chipped all up after one trip to track-I've got better things to do than fix rock chips.

Put your spare tire on and rotate it thru all 4 tires checking for the vibration to go away when you've got the spare in the place of the offending tire. A lot less cost/work than going straight to something more costly and less common. Vibrations that increase with increased vehicle speed are most likely a problem with the tires.

Yeah, I wanted to decorate the living room with a wainscoting made of old chrome off junkyard cars. You can imagine how far that plan got.