RebekahsZ

Do you have a feel for what caused the diff to fail? Was it on an up-shift, down-shift? I need to go buy some of those green socks.

I don't know if you plan to ceramic your headers, but so far, I haven't needed any heat shields. I do have a vented hood and no belly pan, so I have some air moving thru, and I did insulate all the wiring that runs down the firewall on the passenger side trying to be on the safe side. So far, I haven't melted any wiring, so you may get away without the heat shields. For a while, you'll want to check plugs and retorque the headers, so the shields may get in your way. The only way that tires that big fit on a z is with either flared fenders or a tall ride height. If you lower the car, you are gonna rub fender when you squat the car under all your new-found power.

I still don't think the tranny is the problem. Don't we have a senior club member nearby (Maryland) who can go help a brother out with some trouble shooting?

No, the white wire with the red stripe goes from the starter to the fuse block inside the car on the transmission tunnel. That is how you get power to your lights and things associated with the chassis. Get your voltmeter and check for ohms between the white/red wire on the fuse block and the wire you are asking about. You can still call me if you need me, just make it after 7pm.

OK, so I PM'd you that the circlip is in my mailbox. I think the mail man comes at around 5pm, we are one of the last stops on his route for the day. I just stuck it in an envelop with some padding and 2 stamps. I got it from one of my extra CV boot kits from Rockland (or is it Rockford?) Driveline, so it is brand new. As far as the band clamps go for the boots, I recommend big screw-type hose clamps from Lowes or Home Depot. I think a 3" clamp is big enough. I have used hose clamps on mine without them coming off. The reason I like them is that I never seem to get the boot in just the right spot on the shaft, so the hose clamp allows me to adjust the boot after assembly on the car.

That's right - the return spring IS missing. I don't think it is the problem, but you are right. I guess the pressure plate is acting as his return spring. Lowrida, there should be a spring between the little hole in the slave cylinder housing and the little hole in the end of the clutch fork. Any old spring that fits would do. However, this shouldn't affect the ability of the engine to run...

A 40-year old gas tank full of snot motivated me to get a trailer a few years back and I've never looked back. Now I can push my shi...(I mean car) as hard as I want to, and I dont have to call my wife to get home. I just got tired of groveling. Best thing I ever did.

No, it has been a while since I looked.

Brother, the problem ain't your exhaust-your car is, like, on the ground (I'm looking at the angle on your half-shafts). It is better to scrape your exhaust than to drag your as s. Think of your exhaust like a curb feeler. Seriously, your stuff is gonna be draggin' unless you go to 1" pipe. Get you some stacks like a semi truck and run 'em straight out the hood! I don't see any other way, unless you add a little ride height.

Yeah, I love that angle. What panel did you suck the suction cup down on? The fender is curved-did it hold OK there, or did you put it on your hatch or maybe the glass?

I may be nice, but I can't do anything without an address. If I remember, there are two different c-clips. Is the one you need for the inner CV or the outer? Ooops. Just found your PM and your edited post with a picture. Will find it in my shop tomorrow and get it out with Wednesday's mail.

I'm sure I have one that I can spare. Send me your address and I'll throw it in an envelope. It'll cost you a beer if we ever meet. Expensive beer.

That video was great. I'm starting on the wiring for my 2-step. Did you use the suction cup mount for your go-pro when you had it on the back 1/4 panel?

Got any video of the 2-step in action? Where did you mount the box?

Are you sure that is the clutch master cylinder? The clutch master cylinder is under the little door to the side of the hood. Any chance you sent us a picture of the brake master cylinder? How does it run in neutral? Can you push the car around? Post a video if you can. The slave looks ok. Have your wife push the pedal while you look under the car and see if the clutch fork moves. Look for wires under the dash that could be getting pinched or grounded out when you push the clutch pedal.

I just did on the header side and tried to be careful putting them on. Using hex nuts and lock washers. They are stainless. I wonder if that could be the problem.

The Sanderson headers use a bead of RTV before bolting to the head for the final time. There is a high temp RTV with copper in it, but I just used regular RTV. Kind of weird but I have no leaks after like six months. I used aluminum gaskets for the collector end. I had the collector bolts spot welded to the flange first because it is hard to get a wrench up top while tightening from the bottom. Check the torque spec on the header to head bolts. It is a really low torque. I have tried to retorque mine a couple times but they haven't loosened any. The collector side loosens up constantly. Retorquing that end is on my pre-race checklist. I use anti-seize on everything.

I'm out of town. If you don't get it figured out, call me Monday night and ill look at my car while we talk. My memory is foggy. 256-366-4685. I think I used the Datsun starter wire to the LS starter wire. I found a wire under the hood that was on only in the ignition on key position as a switch "on" wire to a solenoid on my new fuse block to power the switched circuits. Then I used a wire directly off the battery for the few constant on circuits. I didn't have to cut into any wiring on the ignition switch or chassis fuse block. Don't know if my way was best but it works.

I think Nissan motor sports has 3.1 R&P sets for big bucks.

Looks great! Don't forget to constantly keep your exhaust routing in mind. I put my fuel pump in a location that is gonna force me to do single exit exhaust. Also, always keep in mind that on jack stands your suspension is drooped giving you extra room around the axles. You won't have as much room when car is down or lowered. Do a trial fit of your headers outside the car. There was an extra part on my driver side head that had to be sawn off and I didn't know about it until late I the game. Had to pull motor again just for that 10 minute job. I have had constant trouble keeping the Sanderson header flanges tight. I'm gonna buy another un-ceramics set, modify them for v-bands then have them ceramic'd. The headers are tough to deal with laying on your back. Your fuel line is way simpler than mine. Like it.

Gonna be really close. I'd go to a variety of used tire stores till you find a 225/50/15 to trial fit. The sidewalls on 60s bulge. 50s will pretty well go straight up from the rim. I think the 50s are gonna be close to the point you might need a little spacer but only a pretty thin one if at all. Remember the tire is a couple inches higher where the strut is farther away. I'm equally worried about your fender clearance. Do coilovers and you'll have tons of room.

It's a long weekend. Swap that sucker and give us a report on Tuesday!

I take back every bad thing I've ever said about yankees. AMAZING. What should we budget for the super charger (including all the things not included in the kit and all the little mods you had to do to make it work)? Love the Datsun emblems in the coil covers. Beautiful car. Is your shop custom building headers for you? Please give us as many build details as you can!

Wow, sounds like fun. If the price is right, get it and try it. What have you got to lose other than a day of work? Take it easy exiting turns on the street until you get used to the new gearing. I spun my car on an on-ramp on the maiden test drive the day I switched from 3:36 to 4:11. Destroyed A hub,strut, air dam, control arm and two wheels. Dam n lucky I didn't kill myself. Took me a whole week to fix it (I was in my 20s-would take a month now). Wish I was in your club, our tracks are super tight due to small facility.

Climbed under car and did some measuring while looking thru my bellhousing inspection hole. Blowing off the shim and declaring the clutch FIXED (shim will be too damn much work, and clutch is disengaging fine. 1" master was required with 100% of the adjustment rod and 100% of the pedal throw. Disengages fullly about 2 inches above the floor; no leaks to indicate overestension of slave; TOB moves about 5/8 inch starting 1/8" from full compresson of slave cylinder. Looking at my old slave, there should be a full inch to max extension. Gonna keep daily driving and fine-tuning the adjustment and hoping to hit the strip in two weeks. Will provide a full report based on performance at strip.