RebekahsZ

Everybody has to workspace hard To go from 7 to 8 inch wheels. There is nothing wrong with a 7 inch wheel and all this clearance headache just seems to dissolve away. Consider going to7 s and start laying down some miles.

Doing the JMortensen axle swap / CV rebuild. #1 how the heck do I get that stinkin' inner CV off the shaft??? I have been whacking it with a brass drift until I'm afraid I'm gonna snap a tooth off of the big star fruit-shaped thing-em-a-bob in the center of the CV. The "sticky" references using a pipe - can anybody describe that technique in detail? Or tell me where he heck I'm supposed to whack this thing to get it to come off! Maybe I'm just not whacking it hard enough - should I worry about breaking things? #2 take a look at the photos I've added. Does the wear on this first outer CV look acceptable? Should I rotate the star-fruit thing-em-a-bob 180 degrees to get eliminate the wear pattern that the balls ride on? I only ripped off 2 fingernails getting the old boots off and the new boots on the new shafts - that is pretty good for me. I have a goal of getting to the strip with R200 CLSD with slicks on May 17th. Keith

Dude, you did such a great job. I am impressed by how quiet it it too - I didn't expect that from those mufflers. Nice, classy, tight, no bs job. The ride height and flares are perfect. Well done. Where in Kansas are you? I'd like to try meet up somewhere in the middle before you move west. You set the bar way up there.

I get it: so this is to keep the guys who don't know your car from bending the crap out of it by towing from a weak spot. Thanks for the clarification. I guess I never imagined a situation where I wouldn't be supervising. I guess getting your head whacked or being rushed to the hospital could sure cause that plan to fail! Thanks - I best get me some stickers.

I'm collecting diffs for my LS2 project. Currently installed in my car is a STi R180 3.90 CLSD and 1st gear is kind of pointless, so I'm thinking about putting together a combo that has higher gearing. The T56 gearing is so close from 1st to 2nd that the shift light just stays on even though I've shifted up a gear! The picture shows, starting on the left: 3.90 CLSD, 3.70 CLSD, 3.54 Open. The 3.90 and 3.70 were purchased from Hybridz forum members while the 3.54 open was given to me by a friend who I share my old L24 parts with. Supposedly it was from a 1988 Z31 Turbo - it was supposed to be a LSD, but at least the axles were right. Anyway, if you compare the photos of the ring gears, the 3.54 open looks like varnish was sprayed into it. There is a yellow-ish tint to the entire inside of the diff. Also, when I try to turn the input flange, it kind of sticks or hangs up, then rotates freely, but with a little roughness, when compared to the LSDs. Do you think the open diff got hot, causing the discoloration? Simply aged oil? I was kind of hoping to swap one of the LSD units into the 3.54 in order to get high enough gearing to use 1st gear occasionally. I'm also wondering if it is worth the trouble to replace the bearings in the 3.54 - may be a heck of a lot of work. The browser posted the pictures in a different order: left is the inside of one of the LSDs (they both look great even though they were sold to me by different members), then all three diffs on the bench, then two shots of the interior of the open diff in question. If I can't figure this out, I may just shoot in the middle and start prepping the 3.70 for the time being. What do the sages of HybridZ recommend? Keith

Totally stupid question, here, I don't know anything about racing regulations. Why does everybody label their tow hooks with the word "tow?" Maybe it isn't obvious?? Probably a regulation? The tow hooks look great. I use my front one everytime I winch the car on and off the trailer. So far, haven't used the rears.

Like that last one.

Harbor freight has cheap low profile aluminum jacks for $59 with coupon out of any car mag. You will still have trouble finding places to get it under. How much clearance under the frame rocker panels? My oil pan is about an inch below my crossmember so I plan to spot weld a rock catcher onto my crossmember. I am also going to weld a plate on my seatbelt recesses so I can jack from them-they ought to be plenty strong. It is the front that is tough due to air dam. Looks awesome! Big fan. Livin like a rock star! Freakin stealth fighter.

Anybody know if we are eligible for a tax break for installing a flex fuel motor with displacement on demand? I don't even know if we have displacement on demand.

When mechanicals are done, I will get my hood painted and install a small painted BRE-style rear deck "spoiler." I plan on putting a 240z emblem on the one side of the spoiler and a hybrid emblem on the other side. What is your favorite hybrid emblem? Please post pictures.

Thanks! I think it sounds like a farm truck until you get it up to about 4,000rpms and is sweet music at 6,000. I wish I had room for a little balance tube before the dump tube in order to get more sound pulses per dump tube - I think that would make it sound better. Everything inside the motor is stock 2006 GTO. I'm looking forward to getting the exhaust done. I plan to use electric exhaust cutouts just for fun, but a muffler is a must - I am huge cop bait. If anybody has a recommendation for a very compact muffler that is really quiet I would be interested. Plan now is for a straight thru 12" long 3" in and out Borla XR-1 in the stock location. It will be compact, but probably pretty loud. The car is just so "in your face" it is kind of a spectacle in traffic.

Do a forum search to be sure but a think the only difference between stock u-joint axles for the R180 and R200 is length due to the wider R200 case. Double check me.

That is what they told me when I called. They said I could re-use the shorter one but on the opposite side. Then I would have to buy one shorter shaft for the other side. There is a lot to like about their axles but I personally don't like all the bolts that are employed. There are 20 fasteners per axle. That is 40 fasteners total vs 8 total for z31 axles. The cost of a z31 turbo axle conversion is about 100 for old axles, 395 for companion flanges then 500 for shortened shafts if you want them. The wolf creeks are $900 and you specify R180 or R200 when you buy. The only trouble I had installing the wolf creeks was that the threads in the adapters needed chasing with a tap - there were burs in them that bound two of the bolts up so I ruined two of the supplied Allen head bolts. Luckily their we're extra bolts in the kit. The safety wiring was tedious.

I'm in the market for the diff and axles. PM me if you'd be interested in selling. I've bought 3 similar setups lately ranging from $600 just for the diff up to $675 for diff and axles package deal, so that seems like the going rate. I won't try to talk you down below that and will make it a no-hassle sale. Money ready today via paypal. There is somebody on ebay asking $1475 for a similar setup. He is high (as in crazy) - it has been for sale for over a month with no bids.

Last time I ordered a FPR, I went ahead and ordered 2, expecting to dirty a few on the way to reliability. I've got to clean my pre-screen filter again this weekend to MAINTAIN reliability. I still got a little sand out of it last time. Your car looks great - I can't believe how fast you've done it. The color is great, and I'm even becoming a flared fender fan. Looking forward to your start-up video.

Doesn't look that good in person - paint is 20 years old and pretty hammered. Video makes everything look better. Needs more rubber coating behind rear wheels!

Turn the volume UP! Thanks to everybody who is helping me with this project. Hope the guys who are still wrenchin' get inspired. Keith IMG_0317.MOV

Finally made a burn-out video. Filming is my friend Whit Lyles, a streetrod fabricator who modified my fuel tank. I never knew he had such an evil laugh. I'm the one with the candy-store grin on my face. Second gear. RPM was monitored with my shift light which was set to 5,500rpm. Turn your volume all the way UP. IMG_0317.MOV

I think I'm still finding the cheapest FPRs at SpeedwayMotors.com They wanted a fortune at my local parts store. Speedway ships pretty quick.

I have a R180 CLSD from a subi with wolf creek cv axles (930 CVs). I been burning so much rubber that my clutch stinks. Ooops-I forgot to take off my e brake on one of them. So far no trouble. Axles were bolt in affair although tedious. I d sell you Mine but they are sized for R180. Got lots of rubber crumbs on 1/4 panels. Video today but my router is down so I can't post it.

You should take the cover off and look. Somebody could have swapped it before. I thin it takes a 12 mm socket. If it is an LSD I might want to buy it.

Is it possible to split the difference and get some 10 inch springs? Split the middle of too high and too low?

What's the score now? I mean how many axles?

That is a great site. Thanks for sharing it with me. I'm not that brave to post there. This site is pretty gentle -so long as you don't skip the search function or get a reputation for street racing! Mistafosta- touché. Can't argue with that.

That is awesome. On a serious note: does it rock your world when you come down from a wheelie like that or does the car settle back down smoothly? That is amazing!