RebekahsZ

I recently bought some from BlackDragon and they were straight while my originals have a slight bend to them. The new ones just plain didn't fit. I still have them somewhere because I plan to try to attach the squeegees to my old moldings.

Bigdeezs, Use the broom stick or 2X4 that you use to prop your hatch open to prop your hood open. Did you think it was a coincindence that we have a hatch on both ends of our cars? Mr. K, in his infinite wisdom, knew that this day would come, so he put those little straps in the hatch area just to keep the broom stick from rolling around when you are canyon carving.

Savage says the extra CLSD clutches are in the mail. So, I cleared off a section of my work bench and took inventory. I now have 3.90 CLSD, 3.70 CLSD and a 3.54 open version of the 1987/1988 turbo R200, oh, and a sore back. I see no wear on the ring gears of the 3.90 and 3.70; the 3.54 shows a little ring gear wear. A fourth R200, Shiro VLSD converted to 3.54 with Shiro CV axles should arrive in the next week or two. There is some visible variation between the exterior of each case. The rear cover flange is the same between the CLSDs, but the output seal castings on the 3.90 are different from the 3.70 and 3.54. A second set of JMortensen's shortened axle shafts are on order. If anybody has a favorite source for diff seals, please make a recommendation. I haven't checked anywhere yet. Gonna start with the 3.90 CLSD and try to swap that carrier into the open 3.54 diff. I have seen a thread somewhere on the drivetrain forum that describes how to do this swap in pretty good detail. I hope to have a low-miles, "lightly used" Sti R180 CLSD for sale along with Wolf Creek axles before May.

Six_shooter: you are tha man! I really appreciate the link. $1400 for one of their units, hmmm, I wonder how many they sell and at what profit margin. You are putting ideas into my head for an early retirement plan. Your blazer looks great as of your last post-how is your z coming along? Guys, when I'm working on the car, I finally have a place to store a pencil, screwdriver, 12mm wrench, a ratchet or any other handtool. I might even be able to put a little oil down in them and some kernals to make popcorn. Does that qualify as functional?

I've been surprised that more dress-up stuff isn't available for the LS motors-they really are the "new small block." There are lots of different "fuel rail covers" from a variety from the factory to carbon fiber, etc. This is basically a fuel rail cover, just like the ones the factory puts on lots of production cars. It just has an old-school twist. In the future, I will be looking at a way to eliminate any coverage of the pretty curves of the factory intake manifold (I think it is kind of pretty) even though it is plastic. I went simple this time. Maybe I can use the tabs on the fuel rail like I have, but also use the bolts that hold the fuel rail to the intake (there just isn't' much hardware up there to bolt to). There are also very few options for coil covers, the Holleys just seemed to be the most simple. I haven't taken it to any shows since making the stacks up. I may try this Saturday night and see what type of giggles I get. With all the ratrod stuff out there, I think folks are a little more forgiving these days of using some poetic license with this sort of thing. I already know that I am likely the fastest car at just about any show I attend, but a Japanese car never gets the street cred that a deuce gets. I used to want one of those, but they just don't drive as well as a Z-car. That is why I hang with the kit car / replica group - they understand the art of deception. Plus they are old farts like me. You guys in California probably have more experience with fake boobs than I do: I like the looks, but have never had the pleasure. Are they for looks or performance? I didn't have to cut the hood. This doesn't happen very often, but I got just the right size on the first try. They clear the cowl induction style hood by about 3/8", yet I can see them thru the cowl induction hole when I'm driving and I can rev the motor and see the motor torque a little on the poly mounts. And really, what is function? Does a z-car really USE 10" wide wheels? For most of us, does an airdam really do anything? And what about paint?-Comic Artist seems to be doing just fine without any. Just rambling now trying to justify my tomfoolery. I really didn't expect anything positive - I am doing better than expected.

I really expected more creativity in the critiques. At least SUNNY made some effort, although in Alabama, we know that the expression is "teets on a boar." Keep the comments coming - I started this whole thread just for fun!

What I didn't explain is that this induction system actually represents the latest in green technology. If you look closely you will see that there are no fuel lines. That would suggest that the engine runs only on air. It is actually a flex fuel motor and can be configured to run on anti-matter. It also has displacement on demand: of you run it on the original EFI only, you get 8 cylinders; if you run it only on the anti-matter system you get zero cylinders. The Obama administration has already contacted me for rights to the patented technology. You guys need to get with the program. You are so 2012.

I have had the joy of trying to keep a car running with only 3 carbs. No way I am going back to that way if life.

You guys are too kind. I thought I'd get brutalized and abused. I will leave it till the new wears off. It takes 4 screws to remove it. Thanks for the feedback.

Oooops

Yeah, I did tons of runs last year with my N.A., CLSD R180 L24, with clutch release (not dumped or side-stepped) from 5-6,000 rpm. I could only do 1st gear burn-outs due to inadequate power. At the line my drag radials hooked but my clutch slipped pretty badly until rpm dropped to 2 grand, then the car would actually start moving. I never broke anything, but it was demoralizing being so slow. My slippy clutch probably protected my driveline. I installed a line lock (do a search on brakes forum) and it really helped me to be more controlled at burnouts and kept me back in the burnout area where it was good and wet and there wasn't any traction additive. I definitely get wheel hop if I roll in the traction-additive part of the staging area. On your burnouts does your car roll from the wet into the high-traction part of the staging area? I also roll out of the burn out a little rather than just getting off the throttle to help my driveline unload gradually as opposed to going from fully loaded to fully unloaded and stopping instantly. Please post your solution and your results as you make changes. Good luck! I'd go with the non-greaseable Spicers. Once installed, you really can't get a grease gun on the driveshaft grease fittings, so the greasability is not really an issue.

I may get a lot of ribbing for this, because I will admit it is pretty cheesy. I have always wanted a V8 with down-draft webers and velocity stacks, but my dad taught me to always run air filter (s) on my car. Well, my LS swap allowed me to have both. I made a cold air intake pretty much the same way everybody does to actually provide filtered and metered air to my motor. Then, I made a bracket out of stainless sheet that bolts to my factory fuel rail. I bought 2 sets of 4, 4" velocity stacks off ebay for $85 per set of 4 stacks and bolted it all together. Clears cowl-induction hood by about 1/4" and you can see them from the driver seat through the cowl-induction opening. Enjoy the pictures, feel free to copy. My buddy who helped me with the sheetmetal bending brake calls it "man art." Coil covers are Holley brand - I am very happy with them. OK to ask questions or tease me.

I must have syphoned my tank 5 times so far - and I never could get the little syphon kits to work - the only way I could get the syphon working was by swallowing a good bit of fuel. Good thing I don't smoke! Treated myself to some Summitt brand AN wrenches for cleaning my filter - well worth the money.

Wild that both u-joints broke rather than just the weakest one. Be sure as you can that the ears of the drive shaft aren't stretched. Maybe next time start with high enough tire pressures to allow some spinning then reduce air pressure to desired amount of traction. You can also leave your tires cold. The other way to be easier is to use the clutch. Most equipment failures I see at the drags occur in the burnout,not in the race. You must have a really good clutch!

Lazy at. Please post a very visible build thread. Lots of us will want to learn from your experience.

No I am sorry. I am not a maxima expert. Have you tried to get on Internet? I started with a google search.

Looks super. The e brake cable will be very close to the strut tube. Make sure you completely mock up to be sure that clears. I just picked up some ceramic pads to try. The porter fields have to be warmed up to work well which hurts spontaneous use of the hand brake. It needs to work cold. I will report back. I am glad I was right-you did fine without my drawing. That pretty much looks the same.

1985 - it has a removeable bracket for the emergency brake cable. The 1984 (wrong year) has a emergency brake bracket that is cast as part of the caliper - you don't want that one. I paid about $120 each US$.

That looks great. Your finishing on the camber plates is amazing. Don't get discouraged. You are doing great!

You know you have a Datsun hybridZ when somebody in town gets a new Lamborghini and you don't give a crap, because you know you could smoke him any day of the week. (I live in a small town and everybody's talkin' about the Lambo driving around). I wonder if he'll need new floorpans in 40 years?

First trip to local 1/8-mile drag strip tonight-first Thursday night this month without rain. Didn't get finished with supper until late and only got 3 runs before they closed down. Street tires pumped up to 30 psi to keep from breaking the 3.90 STi R180. I now have 2 CLSD R200s (3.90, 3.70) on work bench, waiting for clutches from Savage and waiting for a 3.54 VLSD R200-should ship out to me tomorrow. Had to re-learn how to put car on tailer. Trailered down (just in case I broke something bad). Driving impression: Scary. Old habits die hard, so I pulled up to the staging lane, put it in 2nd gear, automatically rev'd to 5000 like I used to with the L24, green light-let out clutch and got a close up view of the gaurd rail! About wet my pants! After I pulled my act together, I nursed it down the lane for a 9.79/70mph-still faster than the car was with the L24. Second run, left line at about 1500rpm, still breaking traction at will, 9.09/77mph. Third run, left at 1500-ish working hard to get traction and not get sideways 8.65/82mph. Reaction times and 60's-terrible. Shift light kept me off rev limiter. NEVER got anywhere close to full throttle. I am definitely not used to having to "drive" the car so much - welcome to the big leagues! Lots to learn. Found a lower radiator hose leak while loading back up onto trailer. Eager to get R200 in, mount my slicks and get my clutch controlled line lock release/2 step built. Then start practicing and bring down times. Unloaded, all back in garage, radiator hose fixed and ready to drive to work in the morning.

OK Six_shooter. I can appreciate that you think I'm an idiot-I get that. I took your input and filed it with the other suggestions. Please unsubscribe from this thread - you are off topic and not helping. Please find someone else to "help."

Thanks guys. Now that I have some ideas, give me a little while to give them a try and I'll report back on what I learn. I was really hoping I could weld a little "nubbin'" on my steering knuckles that would hit the LCA and limit how much I can turn the car - ain't nothin' ever easy! Keith

Hmmm. I just installed TTT LCAs. Can you measure your front track at the ground next chance you get?

Yeah, I'm getting good at my right-footed power pirouettes (see youtube link). My old non-adjustable TC rods had places where I had worn the paint off due to the same problem. I would expect that the TTT adjustable TC rods would not have this problem because their adjuster is so short. I can't remember where I got my rods, but the entire rod is an adjustment barrel. Ya'al stop teasing me - I'm serious! May the force be with you. http://youtu.be/ZYAFoso0CLk