RebekahsZ

There's a 2 pair on ebay for $85. Maybe they are made of crack?

Oops, double post while trying to edit. Don't put 280z springs on a 240z, it will make your car look like a jeep.

Any catalog that says a certain part is a "must" is just talkin' crappe to get an add-on sale. Separate the engine and suspension into separate projects. Do the engine and then see if you need to mod your suspension. If you need to mod your suspension, go to coilover suspension. Any of the aftermarket stock diameter springs are too soft to make any significant difference over stock-IMHO a waste of time and money.

I had a borla XR-1 2.5 in and out on my L24. I loved the sound of it. It is not quiet, but sounds just great. Mine was center in center out and it hung kind of low. The muffler case was 14" long and it crowded my tire a bit. I would get center in and offset out, then you have options. You can turn it around, the direction doesn't matter at all. An offset would have allowed me to either move it up and add ground clearance or rotate it a bit and get the pipe away from my tire. I have ordered a 12" case 3" in and out for my LS2. I wish an offset was availbabe, but it is not. Good luck!

PM sent

Camber the top of the tire IN with DP camber plates from BetaMotorsports.com

When you put your new rear end in, please disassemble the diff and find out where it was coming apart. Open R200? What ratio? I can't believe it broke so quickly, so far so good here with an R180 CLSD and Wolf Creeks. But only (3) 1/8 mile runs with moderate burnouts, 3 or 4 dry burnouts on the street and 4 or 5 hours of driving around with power application limited by sound. Hoping to rebuild a 3.90 R200 CLSD and Z31 shortened CV axles this weekend, then put it all together next weekend. Have warned family that I won't be sleeping much for a few days.

Thank you. I did look at listing: rusty ring gear; 3.70. I have a VLSD coming in the mail this week. I think I'm gonna build up my 3.90 CLSD this weekend. Thanks, again.

Thanks to everybody for all the advice. I'll be looking at the torque curves for a stock LS2. I sure wish my dad was alive-he'd be great at this and he'd be having a ball! Boy-johnc-they sure are proud of those R&Ps! What ratio did you build alainburton's diff to? Thanks for the website. It is looking more and more like 3.90 trying to run the autox mostly starting in 2nd, driving in 3rd. For drag it is looking like I have a 3-speed: launching in 2d and running down the course in 3rd, then 4th to 100 in the 1/8th and just winding it out to 125 in 4th for the 1/4-mile.

Is a 4.38-ish longnose R200 available anywhere? What are all the ratios available?

What part of your R200 broke? How were you driving the car when it broke?

I'm collecting spare R200 diffs of various ratios. First choice is 3.36, then 4.11, then 3.54. I have 2 CLSD units and a VLSD unit, so I don't care if the unit that you sell me is open or LSD, although I'll pay more for LSDs. Smooth turning units please, the cleaner (dirt and grease ok, but not super rusty) the better, I hope to just move the LSD carrier around and keep the R&P bearings and shimming undisturbed without tearing the whole thing apart. Payment will be paypal with UPS shipping.

Thanks. I just put it on my watch list. Oops - he is only selling the ring and pinion.

This is fun - getting Ford and Chevy on same forum. I wish I had more experience as a driver but you guys are a big help. Keep talkin'. See new WTB post in parts section for 3.36 and 4.11 R200 diffs, open or LSD. This would give me 3.54, 3.70, 3.90, 4.11 R&Ps in my shop. Hoping for a major car work binge (no sleep) this weekend.

I had same problem with my swap. 1. Make sure rear check valve is removed from master cylinder first and foremost. 2. Bleed rear calipers with them in your hand with a block of wood in place of the rotor. When you think you have all the air out twist caliper in your hand a few degrees and bleed some more. Dont get pinched Rinse and repeat-sorry shampoo joke-I live in a house full of women. No matter where the bleeder is located you still have trapped air.

I really appreciate the input. OK: lets write off 1st gear and pretend that I have a Porche 914 transmission with the inverted shift pattern. How would I expect things to go if I kept the 3.90 gears and tried to drive the whole autocross in what is currently 3rd gear (pretending I'm in second). Heres my set up: 225/50/15 BFG R1 (24.5 inches), 2nd gear 2.07, 3rd gear 1.43, redline as needed. In slow turns I am usually busy - I have no idea how slow a slow turn is! What minimum speed and rpm should I be thinking about for most autocross tracks? It was really nice of johnc to give me a really simple max planning speed of 80mph. I had been considering making my first diff my 3.70; now I' leaning toward the 3.90 instead, but planning to autox in 3rd instead of in second with a 3.54. I'm honestly just trying to decide which of my diffs to put the Savage clutch disks in and build up to start with. Trying to have a decent first draft.

Does anybody make a 3.36 R200 or know what model I should search for that might have one, or do I just need to get happy with a 3.54 as the highest I can reasonably do?

Thanks. Yeah, I was bench racing with one of those programs for a while last night. The 80mph goal helps - I really didn't know what rpm to plug in as a target. I'm gonna gear for autocross like you said because the driving is so technical. On drags, I kind of expect to be rowing thru the gears, so that will be whatever it is. I'm not trying to be national champ, just make a lot of noise and wander around the pits like I have a right to be there. Is there someplace that specializes in changeing the ratios inside the T56? It would be great to make 1st a lot taller and have the jump from 5 to 6 closer....is this feasible? Keith

Looks great. Good to hear your rev limiter works. Since you have been into your T56, is it possible, or is there a service that can manipulate gear ratios on a T56? I'd like to make my car more like a close-ratio from 1-6 instead of really close up to 5, then a big jump to 6. I'd like to start with a much taller 1st gear. Whatcha think? Tell us more of your driving impressions. I may try to make that Z Fest, too.

My LS2/T56-M12 240z is a dual purpose car: drag and autocross. Please tell me about your gear ratios and if you like them or would change anything based on your experience. I'm hoping to get as many opnions as I can. I currently have a 3.90 and I know (think) I need to change ratios. The question I have is whether to go higher or lower? I'd love to go autox and make adjustments from there, but over the next couple of months I have too many family committments to get any autocrossing in. So, I'm bench racing.... Autocross specific: Based on what I've learned so far, regardless of which gear I chose, I likely won't use 1st gear very much. IF this car is faster (in autocross) than it was with the L24, I'll have opportunities to get over into 3rd a fair amount (cause I was frequently tached out with the L24 in 2nd on straight aways and slaloms. My question is this: would it make sense to go even lower on my gearing to try to do my auto crossing in 3rd gear with an occasional straight back shift into 4th. Or, should I go higher (3.54 or more) in order to just wind out in 2nd with only an occasional akward shift up and over to 3rd? I have searched and read several different listings. I look forward to getting your opinions. I tend to over-think every thing. Edited to remove the word: "best."

I couldn't go to sleep without giving it one more try with the info you guys have given me. Mounted axle in vise with inner stub hanging down. Grabbed the stub with left hand and pulled down while whacking (the CV) with a soft rubber dead blow hammer (my old one). I was not careful or timid. Came right off in a few smacks. I think two things were key: positioning the axle so that I could put a constant pull against the snap ring, and not being afraid of breaking anything. You guys gave me the confidence to be as rough as I needed to be. I didn't worry about breaking anything because of the video and your reassurances. Went ahead and did second axle - the whole dissassembly took me like 20 minutes (now that I know what I'm doing)! Thanks so much for this forum and all who contribute. Now to go to the JMortensen thread on dissassembling the inner CV! And, I can return the new $16 dead blow hammer!

I was wondering about damaging the splines. I'll start looking for a piece of 1-1/4 galvanized pipe. Just got home from home depot with a new deadblow hammer. It will likely be Saturday before I can post results-VERY busy week.

Thanks everybody. Got my info now gotta find some time.

My balls are great, wait- you mean the car - for a minute I thought this was a dating site. The balls look fine. The joints felt smooth until I took them out of their wear pattern. I appreciate the help. That video makes it look so easy! I've been beating the hell out of it. Gonna buy the exact dead blow hammer one of you showed and I'll try not to worry about breaking parts- I'm in the same spot either way I guess. For the pipe method, do you worry about the pipe diameter and what part of the joint it rests on?

With 3 diffs open in my shop the whole place smells like baby shi- . Ok. Sounds like the color is ok. Now, where to order bearings? Where to order the yellow paint stuff for setting lash?