RebekahsZ

Isn't the big bang what created the universe? And which bushing is the big bushing? So what, actually and mechanically, and perhaps theoretically, is happening inside the diff to cause "chatter." When this phenomenon was first described to me, I expected a little scrubbing sound like a clutch with oil on it. What I'm hearing is a pretty noisy BANGing. Maybe I'll soon see fish walking! I thought maybe I had failed to tighten my lug nuts-it is that kind of noise. I did some figure 8s (they were pretty lazy 8s) in the parking lot before leaving work and no banging. Then I went to pull out of the parking lot and into traffic: 3 big bangs before I straighten the wheel. Is chatter directly proportional to breakaway torque? Gonna get some more seat time with it and plan to add some modifier this weekend.

I'm gonna drive it a while (I've got a little build fatigue). I also want to learn more - so totally not ready to change anything. What percentage of friction modifier can I run? I currently have one 7oz tube in it. I also wonder if I can just add modifier to it, or if I need to drain it and start over with 2 tubes of modifier, then add oil to full? Does friction modifier un-do anything important/is there a down side to it? Should I just be a big boy and get used to the chatter? If that is just part of the trade off game for better performance - I'm OK with it. How much chatter is really too much (is it destructive)? Heck, until I did this, I didn't even know what chatter was! Just don't want to break too many parts on the trail to LSD Nirvana. Only thing that stands between me and the drag strip is an alignment. I bet this think kicks butt in a straight line!

Test drive to work. I don't know if there is a break in period before making and decisions. Diff chatters on turns in traffic more than the old one did. I guess that's the idea? Interesting it chatters more on left turn than on right turns. Lots to learn. Any ideas or suggestions or discussion for a new CLSD man? Doesn't chatter when coasting on turns.

Wow. Looks super.

Got diff R200 in with CV axles, and shortened adjustable rear LCAs. Ops normal, I did everything wrong and had to do almost every step twice. I am now an expert with the spindle pin puller, having learned the wrong way to use it first and getting it stuck on the spindle pin. (That tool is an ablsolute miracle - everyone should order one right now). I am an expert on putting a spindle pin in backwards (why didn't Datsun, put the flat spot exactly in the middle so it could go in either way??). I am proficient at cross threading a locking nut onto a stub axle, but luckily, I'm pretty good at cleaning up goofed threads. I'm good at re-routing brake lines that rub on the companion flanges. All that considered, it went pretty well. The RT mount is so much easier to install than the stock mount; it also allows you to torque the driveshaft bolts with the crowded front-rear suspension crossmember off, although there still isn't enough room to use an actual torque wrench to tighten them. The 280z mustache bar goes in pretty easy if you take the rear-rear suspension cross member out first since it goes BEHIND the uprights instead of in front of the uprights for the 240z mustache bar. My buddy's high torque long-ass torque wrench is awesome. The CV axle bolts have room to use a crows foot and torque wrench to torque them rather than using german torque as required with stock companion flanges. The Z31 CLSD R200 input flange was exactly the same as my old 240z R180 input flange, so the JCI driveshaft bolted right up without modification - I just dropped the driveshaft and let it hang, so I didn't have to drain the tranny. The adjustable LCAs allowed me to reduce the negative camber induced by lowering and upper camber plates, as required to get my wheels and tires inside the wheelwells. I kicked the top of the tire in just enough for the tires to clear the fenders. Well, I used the LCAs to pull the bottom of the tire in. Stock LCAs are about 14.5" center to center. I adjusted my new ones an inch shorter at 13.5". That actually gave me some obvious positive camber! Imagine - a lowered Z with positive camber! Once the suspension settles with a test drive, it may not actually be positive. When I get it to the alignment shop, I'm going to arrange for 2 settings: drag with zero camber and autox with whatever johnc's specs are. I dropped my coilovers way down and jacked the LCAs way up with the CV axles loosened up to check for axle bind (the shafts are shortened by JMortensen). Full travel up and down, and I always had a little slack in the axles (not much). Glad I flipped the cages while I had them apart. It was a busy weekend. I'll try to add some pictures tomorrow.

ktm - can you post a photo of that? I'm serious. I'd like to see perhaps what I did wrong. I had to beat the crap out of the passenger floor and had to trim one end and re-drill the holes in it to get it to fit between the frame rails. I had to slot the holes where the tranny mounts because they were not drilled in the correct place.

I think SCCA Solo rules require that the exhaust exit behind the driver. I currently have side exit under the fender (temporary) while I'm waiting to see if some headers get made and delivered. The LS2 burns so clean, I haven't had any fumes issues at all - I love it. But, it is very loud at mid to high rpm or even at low rpm with a little engine load like climbing a hill. The rear exit exhaust fumes on a Z are so bad, that I may have a warped perspective. Maybe I'm out of smell calibration because my triple side drafts on my L24 had to be jetted so rich?? On the picture I'm posting, you'll have to zoom in and play with the angle of your screen to see the exhaust - it is in shadow in the photo.

Awesome - thanks.

I'm hoping to start a thread listing all the mistakes I have made; perhaps that will help you. I've done everything at least twice and screwed up a lot to get where I am.

I had a hard time coming up with one, myself a few months back. Mine was present but bent up - I managed to carefully hammer mine back into shape well enough to use. Is yours lost or bent? Make sure you measure for the one you need, so you can check the supplier - the only one I came up with was the wrong size for my axles and I wound up sending it back. If you wind up having to go without, you may be ok depending on what you are bolting the axle to. It is just a dust cap and really is only needed for storage.

I need a source for some of the plastic storage plugs for the side axle (stub axle or whatever) holes in the R180 and R200. Part number will put the icing on the cake. Using paper towels for now, but I would like to store diffs full of oil. I know I'll still have to be careful to keep diffs upright even with plugs in. Can anybody help?

You're doing better than me. I just cross threaded an axle stub nut and buggered the treads on my axle stub too. Gonna spend the rest of the day with a jeweler's file trying to salvage it. Probably down for the week waiting for another bolt. With the squished-type locking nuts, it is so hard to know if the nut is starting straight because of the resistance on it even when it is on straight. One side turned out great, the other side - screwed. On the alternator, try a truck alternator. They are a little shorter and don't have that rear mounting boss. Very plentiful. Wiring plug will likely be a little different.

Sand em down till they fit. Nothing special about poly. It is just basically plastic.

Wake up its Zaturday! Get out in the shop and send us some pics.

Had similar problem with v8 swap. Make sure the stops on the pedal are loosened all the way up to start with. May be keeping you from getting full stroke. Then readjust once all working well. This was problem on my car. Wouldn't fully release and wouldn't fully engage. Got more travel in pedal and problem was solved.

Had similar problem with v8 swap. Make sure the stops on the pedal are loosened all the way up to start with. May be keeping you from getting full stroke. Then readjust once all working well. This was problem on my car. Wouldn't fully release and wouldn't fully engage. Got more travel in pedal and problem was solved.

6 clutches. (4) 0.004 shims 2 qts 75-90 7 oz LSD additive: hold 63 ft-lbs breakaway torque. Slips at 64.

Just checked wet breakaway torque of 3.90 R200 CLSD with Savage42's 6-clutch upgrade and (4) 0.004" shims. Result: 63 foot-pounds with 2 quarts of Valvoline synthetic 75-90 oil for LSD and 7 oz of LSD additive. Did not check it before upgrade.

Drove car to work and for about three hours of errands. Thumbs up everywhere I go. Car cranked on second turn of key after install and has not stranded me or even coughed since. I would drive it coast to coast today without hesitation. I don't understand why my rear tires show so much wear????! Nobody has asked me my dyno numbers all day.

I am totally enjoying my car with a totally stock LS2 motor. Heck, I can't keep it attached to the road as it is. As much as I like working on my car, it is mostly for the sense of accomplishment that I enjoy when i DRIVE it.

I represent that remark.

16 hp is 16 hp.

Oh yeah, looks simple and great. The prop valve on a 240z (that's what I got experience with) is under the axles in the back of the car. Your solution looks much simpler. It was a PITA putting the prop valve INSIDE the cockpit, and in all honesty, once I get it set, I probably won't adjust it, so your solution looks great.

Great looking wheels!

Nice looking car mike. I do like the 205/60 over the 205/50. My 205/50s looked like rubber bands and rode very abruptly. You felt everything, which had its pros and cons. For daily driving I like a little sidewall. Really short tires also dramatically increases your highway rpms. I had 4:11s with my 205/50s and tached like a mother on the highway portion of my commute.