RebekahsZ

Aha! I know that the brake booster is bad-I drove the car last night and it takes a lot of middle pedal. I'll try capping the fitting and see what happens. Thanks for helping. I'll post the results.

I just gave my L24 long block to my buddy and he put it in his 1970 240z. He installed the triple Webers and a 280zx electronic distributor from his old engine onto my long block. We cranked it and set the timing. Car ran really rough with an irregular exhaust burbble and some snapping and popping, so we moved to synching the webers. I set the idle mixture screws for leanest mixture without slowing the engine speed (essentially 1-1/2 turns off bottom) and balanced the carbs as best I could and the engine smoothed somewhat and ran much better under power. However, the unisys bead bounced erratically in the air column on cylinder #6 (closest to firewall). We sprayed starting fluid all over that carb trying to find a vacuum leak, but had no luck. I balanced my triple Dellortos regularly on this same long block, and I don't recall the unisys bead bouncing like this before and the car ran smoothly and produced good power and was competitive at autocross. He will check compression tomorrow looking for a bad valve and we will swap in my fixted plate distributor. Anybody have a suggestion for what type of an issue produces a bouncing unisys bead?

Don't fight, boys. Let's just have fun with our toys. I have 5 sets of wheels and I change them around just for fun when ever I feel like it. I hate going to a show or looking thru a magazine where all the cars look the same-I have a lot of fun seeing all the ways people can take the same ingredients and bake a totally different cake. To each his own.

Came across a post by TimZ and got him to send these pictures.

Yes, the car with all the framework where the floor used to be-that is a lot of steel.

Got radiator back from the welder and mocked it up again. Lower tube now no longer conflicts with the fans. Steam vent fitting in top tank looks great and the steam vent tube hides underneath the cold air intake and looks much more sanitary. Drag tire came in and I mocked that up-I have good tire clearance with MT ET Drag 26X8.5X15. Since it fit, I have ordered a second one. Met with aeroZ, who lives about an hour away; got some motivation, he finished his swap about 6 months ago-great car. Picked up another mentor! He gave me the manual that came from his stand alone harness from PSI. The manual is written for dummies like me. Also got to talk a lot with a friend who is an electrical engineer. So, I'm fired up to get the wiring going. Have a lot of parts ordered thru Summit and Haywire, when they arrive, I'll see how they work and if I can use them. Have found local sources for colored wire and heat-shrink crimp connectors. Gonna try to get a lot of wiring done over the holiday weekend.

How much do you expect this car to weigh?

Great. I have a relay coming in from Summit and I'll apply your advice when it arrives. I've been looking at a wire-sizing chart based on amperage load of the motor being powered. My fans were ebay and include no specs. Any rule of thumb on the size of the power wire, and what amp fuse i should use when powering both fans. I started draping my engine harness out today after finishing up the radiator mock-up. Thanks!

I've been all over this forum's search and all over LS1tech's search, so please nobody chew me out. I have a wait4meperformance modified engine harness. I have dual single speed fans that came with my aftermarket Champion aluminum radiator and shroud. From LS1tech, I have picked up that the simple and effective way to wire the fans up is from the low-speed wire using a single relay. Then I guess I just cut off the high speed wire and put some heat-shrink over the end? I don't know enough electrical engineering to know what size relay to use, and I don't know how to wire the fans down-stream of the relay. I assume it will be some sort of an in-series arrangement, but I don't really have a clue. Help me if you can, drawings or photos will really help. I'm ready to get some relays coming in the mail so I can tear into the wiring next weekend. It seems like wiring is where there is the most divergence on how this swap is done-I want to keep it as simple as possible.

Fernandoz is like the nicest guy! He thanks you when you help him.

Yesterday and last night was all mock-ups. Trimmed out hole in radiator support for the cold air tube. Built an aluminum flange for the cold air tube as it passes thru the radiator support. Had to buy new tube, because I cut the 1st one too short! Learned the hard way that aluminum cuts much better with a little oil (tip from a friend). Test fitted hood-it hit the cone filter, so I shortened the aluminum tube and got the cone closer to the radiator. Re-test fit hood-perfect! Moved to radiator. Had a couple of options: aftermarket lower hose or F-body lower hose. GM has discontinued the lower hose, so that kind of sucks. The motor end of that hose is 1.5", the radiator end is 1.25". The Champion radiator that I have (modeled after stock 240z tank) has top and bottom hoses that are 1.33" and the bottom hose has a big bend in it that conflicts with the electric fans. I found a parts-house hose with the right bends to allow use of a 1.5" mandrel bent aluminum tube from Speedway Motors. I will have that tube welded onto the radiator. Now both ends of the hose can be the same diameter and that should allow me to use parts-house hoses in the future. I'll edit post with Part Number in future. Steam vent will go into a threaded boss in the top radiator tank instead of into the top radiator hose. Test fit my drag rims-will order tires now and see if they fit. I've tried to determine the max tire that will fit, but I get conflicting information. Just have to order and hope for the best. If they don't bit, it won't be the first time I bought something twice.

I would consider 15X3.5 to 15X4.5 size.

I found some Weld 15X7s on ebay and bought them.

Champion from Datsun Parts on eBay. mpramsey recommended the kit. It is a 3-core; the 4-core is on back order and I was tired of waiting. The fan shroud needed some tweaking and the fan mounting holes do not come drilled. I thought it would be more of a kit, but as everything it was another project to contend with. The quality and finishing was not great. The top hose is the same as the LS and the JCI supplied hose is good. The lower hose is smaller, and the bend in it conflicts with the right fan. The JCI hose doesn't fit and doesn't have the proper bends in it. Gonna replace the lower hose. Either with an Autozone "whatever fits" hose or a 2002 F-body hose (I ordered one last week and will pick it up tomorrow). I'll cover my final solution on my Mentor Wanted build thread.

A Japanese car is still a poor investment in the US market, so don't try to predict the future. Build it to enjoy it. If Obama has his way, we'll have to crush all cars that actually work, and we'll be riding around on bicycle rickshaws, burning dung to warm our houses while our hard earned money is wasted on cars that run on electricity generated by burning oil/coal and producing atomic waste. Nobody on this forum is going to judge you for hacking your car into the car of your dreams.

Bought from litman. Thanks everybody.

PM to litman

Different brands of struts have different size shafts. You need that part of the camber plate to be matched to your struts. Measure the inside of the bearing with a vanier caliper, and make sure it matches the diameter of your strut rod. If it is imcompatable, talk to JohnC to see what type of strut to buy to go with those. You got domino's disease.

Looks good. Price for part plus shipping? Confirm 240z? The black is labeled front, I guess that means the gold ones are rear? Did you ever install and any memory of how much they lowered car. I want my buddy to have some lowering (that's why he hacked his old springs), but I'm really hoping to get his car to quit driving like crap. I gave him my old engine because he was only running on 4 cylinders and had been driving that way for over a year. He's got it in the car and will likely be driving around again before the week is out. Please reply, maybe we can get these in the mail this week. I'm sort of building my own local z-club, somewhat on my own dime, glad I ain't building a Porsche club.

Helping a buddy out with his z-car. He cut his springs before he knew any better and now he's bottoming out. Only other z-car in my zip code, so I'm trying to keep him on the road so we can sort of have a local club. Anybody got some old lowering springs laying around for a 240z? Gave him my old front shocks which are really stiff so front isn't bottoming out like the back is. Giving this guy all my old parts to keep him rolling. Ready to buy, but I want to get them cheap so I can pass them on to him as free. No suspension lectures please, just help if you can. Shipping will be to zip code 35633.

Passing on the flame. My old engine in my buddy's car. That is way better than having it collecting dust in my shop.

Fairly rust.....? Rusty or rust free? If rust free, give it to me. If rusty, run away.

I emailed Blake at the end of last week. When he has my headers finished, I may ask him to send them for some ceramic coating. He quoted me $225.

I'm curious, did you leave your R200 unpainted because you don't expect it to last long? Every other part of the car is finished to the max, so I really noticed that the diff case is not. Expecting failure? Studying these pictures, hard, there is a lot to learn from them.

Well, how did it go?