RebekahsZ

That's normal. Try not to come down from wheelies too hard and you will be ok.

Bro, I'd wait till the header was installed to plan that port. I'm the king of painting myself into a corner.

Chain or cable restraint?

Stay stock. Even if you have to rebuild what you have. Ditto the above. Been there.

Wonder if that's why the pinion flange came loose. Mine have never done THAT! But my rearrend is awfully noisy and has been for years. I put several different diffs in = same thing. Really howls when I get off of it at the strip. I have no carpets and no resonator on my exhaust-I hear everything. Have you ever been in a Huey with the tail rotor coasting down after engine shutdown? That's what all my diffs sound like.

Solid mounted R200 CLSDs howl and clunk around. If it checks out as ok, Stock Car Mafia wants it.

Have you guys looked at springs at Speedwaymotors.com?

How high? Had the front on my short jack stands on the highest extension setting.

I've always counted on the concept: it's not how big it is that matters, rather, it's what you do with it.

This would be a single event engine that after the dyno tuning would need to survive for about 6 total minutes in about (12) 30 second intervals under boost. I think for that application, I'd be ok (or I wouldn't). I'm much more willing to bet $1500 on a stock LS a few times before betting probably 4 times that much. Might even start with a 5.3 or a 4.8 to make developing the kit even cheaper and to allow me to drop into a smaller engine class. Goal is 800 hp. Event would be standing mile with a gentle low first gear launch, then rpm band would be 5000-7000 rpm thru 4 gear changes. I think I could go with either a pretty big single turbo or even twins. Way too early to get terribly serious. I have lots of chassis stuff to sort out. Ive recently gone from being the only car running in my chassis class to having 2 additional competitors. One has unlimited funds, the other is building around a big cubic inch motor. I've got to get a 200 mph pass before they get their cars together because I'm pretty sure both those teams have greater ultimate potential than I do. Fortunately, they are still in the chassis building stages. It's rare that a car goes 200mph on the first outing-there are tech (safety) issues, tune issues, chassis issues, and chute issues. Basically, everything has to be perfect. I've been running on dumb luck, and I know it. I'm hoping to get the car going straight and stopping straight under silk this year. Then next year is to pass tech to 200 mph paragraphs, then the next couple years are for power. I have time to ponder my options. Really glad I went with the LS platform.

Your car is so friggin' clean!

I am planning a turbo motor sometime in the next 5 years. And the testimonials on this site really support turbo-ing a stock motor over a built motor. Once I'm fully in the new shop, I will be putting my local salvage guy on the task of finding me a low miles LQ9 to boost. The money I save on pistons and rods will go into having my spare T56 face-plated.

I went the v-band route and it's been great. V-bands DO seize, so they aren't totally perfect either, but I'm happy with mine. Put antiseize on the tiny t-bolt to prevent galling.

I finished a buddy's '66 Mustang up last Sat, paid a local shop to replace the delaminating harmonic balancer on my wife's Odyssey and I got lucky on the truck and repaired it today. The roll pin that attaches the hydraulic line to the slave cylinder had backed out and I was able to just push it back in with a long screwdriver. The remote bleeder worked like a champ and I'm back to the point that the Datsun is my only project. Hoping to get back on its front suspension work next weekend.

I had an LQ4 swapped into my S10 truck with an internal hydraulic slave inside the bell housing of the stock NV3500 5-spd tranny. There have been a fair number of bugs to work thru. The latest was a sudden loss of clutch hydraulic pressure when I pushed the pedal on my way home from work. Unlike the T56, the NV3500 has holes in the bell housing that allow visual ispection of the slave cylinder. The roll pin that holds the hydraulic line in had backed out. Fortunately, it was still hanging in place, so I was able to push the line back into place and push the pin back in with a long screwdriver. In the future, I plan to use a small bolt with a nyloc nut in place of the roll pin. Until I swap the NV3500 for a T56 Magnum, the pin will be a monthly visual inspection item. Guys putting a T56 in their Z may want to think about putting a tiny bolt in place of the pin. I got really lucky. Now to bleed the system (argh)!

I needed a place to post this for the Ford guys across the universe. My buddy was having trouble with his 1966 Mustang overheating even after changing the thermostat. I googled the problem and only found lots of folks struggling with same issue without success. I'm posting this here since I'm not a member of the other Ford forums. Hopefully, Google and the other search engines will direct the Ford guys to this thread. So this is really an act of automotive civic duty. After verifying a good thermostat by heating it in a pot of water on the stove with my wife's candy thermometer, and removing, inspecting and replacing the water pump (including removing the flat plate) to ensure that it was in perfect condition, and running water thru the radiator and refilling the system with new store-bought 50/50 antifreeze (the good stuff that Danica takes her clothes off for): The problem was air in the intake manifold. In order to vent the air off, I filled the radiator then removed the heater hose that taps into the thermostat housing. Air came out, followed by water, and the level in the radiator went down. I topped up the radiator and started the car and let it run to a point that the thermostat SHOULD open, but it didn't. I removed the heater hose again and more air came out. Repeated the run-then-vent procedure 5 times before no air came out. Once I stopped getting air at the heater hose fitting, the thermostat opened and all is well. Topped off radiator and car has been good since.

Thanks for making this forum possible!

I could never get my tank clean due to the internal baffling blocking access to all the books and crannies. I humbly recommend a new tank of some kind. Car looks great!

They should.

$20, bro. That's not money-this site is a gift! Pony-up!

You won't kill it. Great find! I paid an average price of $600 for each of mine. Stock car-don't worry about it till your car is running-you've got time to find one.

I'm cheering for you-you'll get 'er done.

Welcome to the club! Every hybridZ owner has a spindle pin story. A heavy dose of profanity is requisite.

The car belonged to Terry Oxendale of Little Rock, Arkansas. He's a genius with composites. He sold the Datsun and is working on some sort of mid-engined Can-Am replica.

Can we please stop being critical of this car and anything that goes along with it and just rejoice in the recognition that the Z is getting? This can only be good for us. If you don't like it, don't buy it.