RebekahsZ

You work FAST! Great job! My coilovers are done with the old-school method of sectioning the strut and I have bolt in camber plates. A couple of suggestions? Get some paint on them quickly and check your front toe-in before you put too many miles on it or you will ruin your tires. Take a tire off a rear wheel and put a jack under the control arm and see how much bump travel you have before you put too many miles on it. Your car is really clean and bottoming out suspension travel will jack-hammer the car to pieces. You probably already have done these things. A camber gauge and toe plates are great tools to have. To me, the first and best mod to do on a Z is a coilover kit. It really makes the car. I'm proud that you didn't go crazy slamming it.

In the words of Frozen: "Let it go! Let it go!" And don't overuse the word "all." I'm listening and learning. Do you drive it to the track 200 miles on slicks?

Hold your fire, SleeperZ-nothing un-civil going on here. We are just some good old boys learning from each other. Lets don't turn a little honest bragging into a fight-if you do, you will cheat me out of a chance to learn and get faster.

ZFan-you say: "get the suspension right." What have you done to get it right? (I think mine is doing fine, but I'm always looking for pointers). SunnyZ-when we gonna get you on a track that turns both ways? You wanna drive to Memphis for ZCON this summer? I'm planning to drag, autocross and road course. I think I can get 3 sets of tires in my truck....

Thanks. "Blown rears"-I have a buddy with a foot brake T350 and junk suspension. He hooks up great even with an open diff. His car just lays back and rolls with the nose up so high that he toes in and his front camber gets all positive. I run +1 degree camber so that the tires squat to vertical. I figured this out by watching the tread wear pattern after each pass and trying to center the "peel" on the tires as they stand up on the fast end. The single adjustable konis stopped my porpoising act. Only the rebound is adjustable. The shock travel on the konis is shorter than the tokicos, so i dont need droop straps anymore. I have the fronts full soft rebound and the rears full hard rebound. At jnjdragracing's advice I run tall fairly rigid foam bumpstops on the rear to keep the rear axles from going below level. If I build another car, it will be an auto and SRA for sure. Ever wish you had a -glide?

Busting me when I've broken one axle! Infidel, what trans are you using? What is your rear alignment/suspension set up like?

I'm running an R200 IRS and Z31 4-bolt CV axles with a T56. I think the standard trans has as much to do with drivetrain breakage as anything else. My tranny has tons of driveline slack, and with a 4500rpm clutch dump, that slack equals stored energy and suddent impact shock for all the parts down the line. I have twisted two cheap, cast driveshaft yokes and and one inner axle stub that broke inside the R200. That is at only 400hp/435 tq rating. I have up-graded to a heat treated billet driveshaft yoke, but I don't know of a way to strengthen the inner stubs (they are part of the inner CV). I'm confident that with a T350 and foot-braking, my car could handle more power reliably. Don't know how bad a trans brake would shock it. I'm holding at current power level in order to limit breakage, although I do hope to add a 150-shot for use after the shift to 3rd and 4rth gear, that should bring me into the 10s. I don't think I would want to spray right out of the hole-I think that would be drivetrain suicide for me. At current power level I have gone 11.0 at 126 with a 1.5 60'. Best 60' to date is 1.43. No wheel hop issues, except once or twice in the burnout box, but none off the line. I'm having trouble with dead-hooking this past season-no wheel hop when you dead hook. I think I'm gonna wind up running one set of small slicks on sticky tracks and a taller set of slicks on slippery tracks. I need a bit of spin to get her going. mistafosta, I have been watching your youtube videos, but haven't found any registered to Infidel. Is Infidel manual or auto trans?

I know I'm being a prick, but if your wheels and tires fit in such a way that you can't go over a bump, you need to rethink what tires are really for.

I remember when I removed the carpet and sound proofing between the storage panels and the spare tire 25 years ago. "Holy Shit!" was my first thought. Then I learned a little bit about forming panels for mass production. When people see those panels now (I painted my floors and don't use carpet), I tell them those panels were straight before I swapped the V8-haha!

Got truck back from mechanic who replaced the slave cyl and installed a remote bleeder for me. He also put the cables on my remote battery lugs (required to be able to get or give a jump start since battery is in fenderwell). Saw a drip on the driveshaft prior to departing shop but we blamed that on assembly. About 20 minutes into trip home (2hours) 5 th gear seems to be whining (naah, its just my imagination, this has always been a noisy trans) but as i pull into my town and leave a stop sign and shift into 3rd, it pops right back into neutral (oh, shit!). Get home late, park it, go to bed. Next morning, gears 1-3 are whining. Took truck to get trans oil topped up-it was EMPTY! Filled it with gear oil and it quieted down and stayed in 3rd gear. Dropped driveshaft today and has a worn and grooved slip yoke. Looks like somebody took a wire brush to it across the grooves. Over the past 2 years, three guys have worked on this driveshaft so no one to pin it on, but damn(!) why didnt somebody say "dude, you need a new yoke."? Ordered a forged yoke and a non-greaseable spicer conversion u-joint. Looks like another week awaiting parts. Hopefully trans isn't ruined. Can't wait to get my lift and welder. I swear I'm not letting anybody touch my stuff after that. Wife is pissed cause it is like Siberia outside and I put her van out AGAIN!

My tires only rub when I drive my car.

This is a very open ended question with no right answer. Go to the gallery and find a car that you want to resemble. Then send a private message (PM) to that member requesting advice.

Zip ties.

Got new slave cyl put in the truck. All went well until part way home and 5 th gear starts whining more than I recall. Smoked the tires a few times cause it does it so well. Then, 3rd gear starts popping into neutral if any significant torque is applied via go pedal. So I've gone from a bad slave to a bad trans. I can't get a break. Maybe if I could keep my foot out of it. I gotta start on the Z NOW. Can't let truck delay me any longer. Plan is to limp it as long as I can and get the Z up on jacks and start getting it ready for ECTA May 3. Crunch time.

Yes, the weight of a dead mosquito on the windshield will dampen the performance of a stock motor. On this "will it fit?" question: in my book, if it rubs, it doesn't fit.

I guess that's why I get a that Viagra spam.

When it comes to color, all my future race cars will be white inside-out, top and bottom for improved light and visibility during repairs and maintenance. If I want color on top I will do a wrap.

The answer from the old guys is "no." The answer from the young guys is "yes". I guess it comes down to your definition of "fit" and "bone stock." When my car was stock, the biggest I could fit was a 15x7 zero offset with a 225/50/15 tire. That was back when a 15 was big. I think a 16x7 would be fine too. The limiting problem was the rear fenders. There's actually more room up front for tires-that could have gone to 8" with a perfect offset. But I don't see 9" in back fitting by my definition of the word. Not by a mile.

JCI mounts. Is this the view that you need? I recommend cutting off the hood latch bracket and go to hood pins. The bracket is a pain, the cables break and many racing rule books require pins.

Funny car-stripped interior but no cage. Custom headliner....recessed firewall but no camber plates... like it just the same and wish it was mine! Must be a bumpy track.

That's a super clean looking car. Save up for a coilover kit. Do not ruin a car like that by cutting springs or even fooling around with lowering springs. That's just my advice. I have done all of the above-everything was a waste of time and money until I bit the bullet and sectioned my struts and installed coilovers. Make it a summer project and do it right. Camber plates are optional, but DP makes a very nice set that you can truly bolt in without any cutting whatsoever. I have run them for 10 years and I still like them very much. Do it right, or leave it as is. That is a $5,000 z-car, don't butcher it. It deserves to be treated well. PM me if you want more info.

Can you point out the location on the motor that you want me to put the tip of the tape measure? Text me your phone number and I will send some pics to you. I'm at 256-366-4685. Put your name in the text.

At this point in life I'd much rather have a wife with a big block than a wife with a big rack. Better yet if she has her own helmet and fire suit! That's a hottie in my book!

We had a weather forecast for ice that wound up being rain. Cancelled morning clinic to keep the old ladies from killing themselves on the bridges. So I'm mid-morning texting like a state employee! Might watch some Days of Our Lives here in a minute. Anyway, if you were running stock stubs, then you must still be 4-lug? Me too. The CF stubs are drilled for both 4 and 5 lug. So far nobody has snapped them. Put antiseize on them and be careful-they are easy to cross thread and gall. If you switch to those (I think CF has a 6-bolt companion flange (?)) and you will be looking for the next weak link, which I predict will be the mounting of the front of your diff. But there is always a weak link, even if it is your oil pan coming down off a big wheelie! I'm definitely not against the 8.8 IRS and I think Will and SunnyZ are fabricating gods.

SunnyZ-how many passes now on your 8.8 setup? Texas300-you are Will's test machine-you gotta get some slicks and do your duty at the strip! Honestly guys, controlling 800 hp has got to be tough. If I ever get started on and finish this winter's (almost spring) mods I hope to try the clutch slipper hydraulic mod next year. Our problem with manual trans is all that stored energy hitting a slack drivetrain. If we had autos we wouldn't have most of this trouble.