OhBilly

Still looking? If so I have a '72 with a turbocharged L28E in it. If interested send me a PM and I'll send you pictures and details. Asking $6000.

I have a '72 turbo for sale if you are interested. It runs nice and strong and drives nice. It would be a good project, although I have been happy driving it like it is. There is a bit of rust in some of the typical spots but it's not excessive. Asking $6000. PM me if you are interested and I can send you pictures and more details. Bill N. Channahon, IL

PM'D. I have a '72 240Z turbo for sale. Looking for about $6000. PM me your email and I'll send you pictures and more details. Bill N. Channahon, IL

PM'd. I have a '72 240z with a turbocharged L28E I am willing to part with.

Use the search term "rollover" at the Jegs website and you'll see what they're talking about: http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/KeywordSearchCmd?storeId=10001&catalogId=10002&langId=-1&Ntk=all&Jnar=0&Ne=1%2B2%2B3%2B13%2B1147708&searchTerm=rollover As far as your weekend racer, what type of racing are we talking here? Drag strip? Road course? If you plan on doing any real racing with a sanctioning body like NASA or SCCA, you may need to get an FIA approved fuel cell. For doing track days, or HPDEs, most groups don't require an FIA approved cell but it would be wise to check the rules of whatever group you plan to run with just to be sure. The inexpensive fuel cells like the one you linked to from Summit should really be thought of as a universal fit gas tank rather than a fuel cell. In most cases they are no safer than the original tank, and I'd argue that in many cases they end up being less safe because of the way they are installed, and the quality of materials used. A few years ago I posted some similar questions as you, and the overall response from the experts was to stick with the factory tank unless you really needed a fuel cell. Not sure what problems you are having with your factory tank but like most others it is probably dirty, rusty and maybe even leaking a bit. In most cases, those problems can be fixed without spending too much money (likely less than it would cost you to buy and install an inexpensive "fuel cell"). And whatever you do, you do NOT route fuel lines through the inside of the car... they go underneath.

I'm confused as to why your spark plug wires have anything to do with the results of your compression test.....? Just how are you performing your compression test?

Another way you might do it is to post on your regional SCCA/NASA forums, as well as those SCCA/NASA forums near where you are buying, that you are looking for somebody to transport. Lots of those guys have trailers and are used to hauling cars around, and for the most part are a pretty honest group of people to deal with.

You only need two ports... one should be plumbed into your intake manifold as a boost reference, and the other gets plumbed into your wastegate actuator. Make sure you don't get them mixed up. EDIT: Figured out this is a bleeder-type controller so yes, you need the T-fitting.

Since you can't necessarily trust the block stamping (yours should be an N42) to tell you what pistons it has (somebody could have swapped them out), an easy method is to take out a spark plug and shine a flashlight in the hole to get a look at the top of the piston. A dished piston should look something like this: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/attachments/open-zcar-discussion/14412d1159747766-forged-dish-8-1-turbo-pistons-datsun-nissan-l28-pistons-007.jpg And of course a flat top piston will have a flat top

Thanks for the clarification on current prices Xnke. In my pricing I wasn't including wideband or any other assorted connectors needed. I bought my MS1 kit about three years ago, along with the 8' harness, relay board and IAT sensor and I think it came up to about $420. Bigfat280z, Xnke pointed out some excellent things that emphasize the details that need to be considered, like the exhaust liners, injector connectors and the different fuel rail needed for the Supra injectors. Pallnet makes a popular Z fuel rail that a lot of guys use for that style injector, and I think there is at least one other guy who is making them as well but I don't remember his name. I don't know the specifics on the Supra fuel pump, but my guess is that it is an in-tank pump. I don't know if it could be modified to work as an inline pump or not, so you might want to consider a universal inline pump. Lots of people go with Walbro pumps but there are others that work too. Keep at it and have fun.

Rather than telling you what you should expect to pay for each part (that's your job to figure out), I'll tell you that you can easily do the whole thing for under $3000. And if you're looking for 230WHP you won't need a T3/T4 hybrid to get there, although that would be a nice setup. The stock T3 turbo will get you to your power goals and will be easier to source, as well as be more straightforward to install (no spacer needed). No, you won't need to do a head swap but like the T3/T4, it would be nice. That leads me to ask, do you know what block and head you have on it now? You imply that you have flattop pistons, but do you know that for sure? The OE engines in the 280Z came with dished pistons. You should check the stampings on your block and head to see what you've really got. To check your pistons, pull out a spark plug and shine a light in there to get a look. Yes, you will need a downpipe. Motorsport Auto (MSA) sells them. They do have a O2 sensor bung welded on them but many feel, me included, that they are too close to the turbo outlet. If you get one you may consider getting an additional bung welded on further downstream. On mine I put it at the other end of the downpipe, close to the exit flange. For exhaust on a turbo car, the bigger the better. Many people choose to go with 3" tubing which works great. 2.5" tubing will also work fine but it's not ideal. Whether you need a stronger rear end or not will greatly depend upon how abusive you will be to it and how much traction your rear tires will be capable of. If you plan on drag racing it and/or slamming gears you might get into some trouble. If you treat it nicely with smooth shifts and avoid shocking your drivetrain, it should be okay. Remember that if you have big and/or sticky rear tires capable of creating a lot of traction, that force will be transmitted into your drivetrain. Depending upon what clutch your car has in it now, that may be one of your weak points that needs attention. You may want to consider a clutch from a turbo car or other suitable unit. Plan accordingly. For injectors you have a lot of options. I ended up using 440cc Supra injectors and I think I paid $180 for 6 of them, used. For intercoolers, again you have a lot of options. Certainly you can pick a good used one up for $100 or less. Your intake manifold you have now should work fine. No need to switch over to a turbo intake manifold, although I'm not sure what the HVAC concerns are. MS2 is the tried and proven solution for these cars. You should be able to get all the MS stuff you need (ECU, relay board if you want, wire harness, etc) for about $500 or so. You don't need to go with a fancy EDIS solution for spark, but of course you can if you want. It's a nice way to go, but not necessary. The stock distributor and single coil setup out of an '82-'83 ZX turbo works pretty well. Any good quality coil will work. Laptop prices vary greatly. Mine cost $0 (a hand-me-down), but you should be able to get something that works fine for not much more than that. Manual boost controller you can make yourself with parts from your local hardware store. Search for "grainger valve" and "threaded rod" on these forums and you should find what you need to know. If you want something that's adjustable from the driver's seat (not needed nor advisable), that's a different story. The more reading you do on this subject the better. Plan things out and know what you want before you dive into it. Get as many parts as you can before you start ripping the current parts off your car. Some things to research that you didn't mention in your post are turbo oil drain, turbo oil feed, fuel pump, oil pump, fuel lines, fuel rail, fuel pressure regulator, wideband O2. Not saying that you need to upgrade all that stuff (you will need the turbo oil feed and drain though), but you should learn as much as you can before you get started. What is your time frame? You sound a bit in a hurry due to your work schedule. Are you working now? Can you only work on your car in the evenings and on weekends? Keep in mind this is not a project you can rush through and get done in a week, or two, or three, or likely four. It will take thorough planning, the acquisition of all your parts, identifying parts that need to be modified or fabricated, fabrication and assembly time, acquiring the parts you didn't think you needed, troubleshooting, tuning, etc. My turbo conversion took longer than most (~ 2 years) but I had very little time to work on the car, just a handful of hours every month. Good luck with the project.

The 29mm adapter you buy is going to be sized for 29mm ID hose, and that's the size of hose you should use. The bung you get welded onto your intake should also be sized for 29mm ID hose. And for the sake of some other HybridZ members, let's call this thing a compressor bypass valve (CBV) instead of a BOV, shall we? Alrighty then. Now before you go too far here, where exactly are you planning on recirculating it to? You are saying "intake" but that can mean either your intake manifold or your intake piping at your turbo inlet. You will want to recirculate it to your pre-turbo intake piping, not your intake manifold. You'll want to plumb it in somewhere downstream of the AFM and before your turbo inlet, the exact location isn't too critical.

For the throttle linkage I ended up using a universal throttle cable kit from Jegs that works quite well: http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performance+Products/555/157006/10002/-1 For modifying the 240SX throttle linkage, if I remember correctly I just had to flip the actuator arm by 180 degrees so it would work in a pull-cable application. This points the actuator arm downwards instead of upwards but it still works fine. Below are a couple of pics that show the cable and linkage. The pics aren't very good but they should give you the idea of how it can work.

Nice! I'm jealous....

Run your sensor returns as shown in the diagram. These returns are grounded through the relay board. As long as your relay board is grounded well, you shouldn't have any trouble.