Mike kZ

Owen, Yes I welded it on but, my tank was empty for about 10 years! If it has a hint of a gas smell I would bring it in to boil it out first. The only pic I have is on my site on page 7, then scroll down.

I have EFI also and used the stock 240Z tank, but added a sump to the bottom. You can get them at Summit.

I would check the yellow pages for a marine supply store in your area.

I used 1/2" foam tape, once the foam compressed in the hole it held the gauges tight!

It sounds like that plastic thing is your fuseable link. Not sure what the metal thing is though.

I think your thinking of the distribution block, with the warning light sensor. On my '72 240 it's above the rear end and is made of copper and is about 1" square. There is a plug at the top, unscrew that, and I think there is a spring in there with some sort of plunger thing. Take all that out, and put the plug back in.

I went to a Hot Rod place that had a louver press, and punched 5 louvers in each inspection lid.

I used their universal "Space Saver" model #02300-VUZ-A w/o vents heat/cool w/def.I got the one without vents so I could use the stock vents in my '72 240Z. I had to modify the cowl area a bit to fit the fan motor part of the Space Saver. The unit is one piece,fan motor,evaporator. The dimentions are 24"L X 7"D X 8.5"H. Call 1-800-to-cool-u for a catalog, I'm sure they have more choises now then when I bought this system. Good luck!

The whole Vintage Air system including everything you need cost around $900. Not cheap, but should be worth it.

John, my car is the black with lime green stripes, the other Z belongs to Lee (JuJu from this forum). He lives close to you in Dallas, thats also his ElCamino if you serched around for awile. Also check out Art Morrisons web page, they have custom frames. http://www.artmorrison.com/ [ May 17, 2001: Message edited by: Mike kZ ]

What would be cool, is a bolt on version of that rear spoiler, I bet you would sell alot!

Jamie T is also using a Northstar Cad motor. He calls his Z, Deathstar.

I used a Hot Rod system from Vintage Air. It fit under the dash great with a slight mod. It's for large Hot Rods so it should cool fine in a Z. As soon as I get the car and air going I'll let you know how it worked.

I did a back half job on my Z, but I didn't use a kit, I bought frame rail material, and after carful measurements welded a frame in the back. With 15 X 10" rims and 295-50-15 tires my diff is 45" hub to hub. For what your doing, with that much power, and constant drag racing. I would go with a full frame kit from one of thoses places you mentioned. They can custom make anything you want. That way you can make mounts for the body and channel it over the frame.

Use "search" button, there's lots of info on this. Here's and example: http://www.hybridz.org/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=1&t=000722 [ May 15, 2001: Message edited by: Mike kZ ]

There are a few guys here from Arizona, one guy said he lives near that moron Dave. He will sell over the counter locally. So maybe someone from Arizona can buy it and ship it to you? Don't bother calling him, he wont ship it out for you!!!

I also remember that the Versaille has a tapered housing which makes it hard to shorten.

Scottie, I didn't have a dif to start with so the cost included buying my 12 bolt. I had it shortened, rebuilt the posi unit, installed 3:73 gears, bought Moser axles, and installed '79 TA disc brakes. This costed $1500 (not cheap!)The suspension is the Jeg's S/S bars (street/strip suspension), panhard bar, and coilovers. That cost around $500. The narrowed frame, and tubs I did my self, materials cost, $20 maybe. You could probably find someone local to shorten the housing, but I would buy some custom axles from Moser or someone. You can shorten the stock axles, but they won't be very strong. Also on a Ford 8.8, it uses C clips to hold the axles in. You maybe alright since the Z dosn't wieght that much, but if you want more strength, use C clip eliminator kit.

You could try bolting the fenders to the hood. I believe thats how Ron's race car is set up. [ May 11, 2001: Message edited by: Mike kZ ]

Your right Kevin, wasn't thinking, that's 400 crank, not 400 block!

Hey John, First of all welcome to HybridZ! Sounds like you have a heck of a project going. You can try Sanderson headers for what your looking for. It may be hard to clear 3 - 4" pipes though. As for the sub-frame ties you have to make your own. A few of us here have done that. With the horsepower you plan on running, I'd go with the shortened 9". I've got the same gears you want to run in my shortened 12 bolt chevy rear. Ron, here on the forum, has a BBchev 260Z that he drag races, it runs mid 8's in the 1/4. He could direct you better on a strip setup. Your engine specs sound trick, shouldn't that be a 400 block though? What hick town in GA are you in? I'm from Lilburn, Gwinnett County.

Engine, what engine???

I had the same problem with my 409 Impala.When your engine is at temp can you touch your carb without burning your self? What was happening is that the fuel in the bowls where evaporating because of the engine heat. So I installed a carb heat shield between the carb and intake, and that solved the problem. I can touch the carb and it's nice and cool. Try it, I think Mr Gasket makes one.

Victoria British, or Motorsports have them. But it's the whole assy, not just the lens, and they cost between $100- $120 each.

Scottie, I love the one with the bomb squad!