blueovalz

http://www.fototime.com/inv/CF926650F3A07F5 for cell mounting pics.

Perhaps the cold start injector is constantly on, instead of turning off when engine warms up. Thus the engine would run fine when cold, but as it warmed up, the A/F mixture would become too rich.

1/4 turn of the float adjustment to lower the rear bowl fuel level (from the proper "trickle" setting) has pretty much cleared up my problem except for extreme braking. I went another 1/4 turn and all my problems have cleared up. Thanks Tim.

My personal experience in dealing with the weight of a SBF (289/302) is this. Aluminum heads, aluminum flywheel, cheap but light aluminum water pump, light aluminum manifold w/carb (some aluminum manifolds are quite heavy), and moderate medium length headers ran it just at 400 lbs (actually it totaled to 390 lbs, but I may have not had the distributor and some other small stuff added correctly. It was actually lighter than the same parts-for-parts as the L24 that it was swapped out for.

This incident aside, this had the be the best F1 race in the last 5 years. Very exciting as far as F1 goes.

Very promising. I added volume to the vacuum reservoir, but never thougt about the powervalve situation. This will be my next attempt to fix this. Addressing the previous post about the carb vs EFI choice: I chose the carb set-up for several reasons over the EFI set-up. First of all, I knew a lot about carbs (old school racer). This, and the fact that it is a lot cheaper and easier to trouble shoot (for me anyway) a carb set-up than it is an EFI set-up. Carb parts are much cheaper. Once a carb is right, then very little work is needed to maintain it. No electronics are needed unless you get an electronic ignition (my Malory Uni-lite is about as far as electronic as I've gone so far). Driveability is a minus on this, but I love a car that makes me a driver, instead of a passenger.

Sorry to hear this bad news, but thank goodness the boy will be all right.

To be honest, I never had the problem until I did the brake fix. OH, BTW, I also thought that perhaps the brake booster was depleteing the vacuum reservioir, thus providing an extremely weak vacuum signal and killing the engine that way. So I added a couple of extra bottles to increase the area a bit, but it had no effect in either brake vacuum improvement (which wasn't bad to begin with) or in the engine stalling area. So it was back to the drawing board. Waiting to hear about the jet extensions!

Well, more background here. The car "drives" better in that, at the limit of traction on a skid pad, the car is very neutral at part throttle (can be steered easily using thottle), and "turn in" is greatly improved. Bar and links are in excelent conditon as are the bushings (actually, they are all heim jointed so there are no bushings and the joints are in excellent shape). Originally the car set-up was very neutral. I then installed stiffer springs all the way around, with more bias toward the rear (265lbs R and 225lbs F), and removed the rear bar, which made the car a bit tight. My next intended step was to use a slightly smaller front bar (still wanted a little understeer in it for the street), but when I disconnecte the front bar in preparation for the corner weighting, I was quite shocked to realize how neutral the car felt on a cloverleafs that I pushed through on the way to the shop. So much so, that I am now re-evaluating what I need to do next. Quite puzzled, but if this works fine, then that's what matters.

If it's any consolation, I've got the same thing happening on mine as well. I've changed carbs, (but they were all center pivot floats and I don't know if this may be a factor or not), float levels, baffled the vents, and pressure with no help. I have finally given up. My engine is perfectly horizontal from front to back, which makes me wonder about this being most engines are several degrees lower in the rear, which is for the most part, designed into the manifold so that the carb is level. With my horizontal engine, the front of the carb is lower than the back part. I've attempted higher primary float levels (with a size smaller front jets), but may not have gone high enough (I'm thinking the fuel was pulling away from the jets).

Too funny!!!

Well, after making all the external changes for a semi-legal street car, I weighed it yesterday. 2321 lbs wet without driver. Funny thing though, I un-linked the swaybar up front (it is the only bar in use) for better weight measurements (571 LF-626 LR-596 RF-530 RR, so the weight needs to be jacked around a little) and driving home, I found my car handles better without any swaybars (first time that has happened). The only thing different than I had before is an increase in spring rates of 225 F & 265 R (from an original 200/200). As the car sits at this moment, I have a 50/50 F/R distribution. This swaybar issue has mucked up everything I ever thought I knew about setting up this car. I am not sure how to interpret the results in regards as to why what seemed to be only a moderate change in spring rates resulted in a such a drastic change in my bar requirement . The front bar was a 27mm bar. Obviously I had the car set up poorly before taking it it??? Any feedback would be appreciated.

Thanks for the concern Tim (and all). I got this hairbrained idea of finishing my education (officially) with some courses a the University of Phoenix Online. What a cast iron bitch! 4 to 5 hours per day studying, as well as the assignments. As you had noticed, I don't have any time for anything other than work, sleep, and studies. Anyway, I look over the forum from time to time, and my plan is to back down a bit and try to enjoy life a little. Thank god for weekends. Take care you guys and I'll see ya when I see ya.

I'm going to be in the same boat here soon. First question is: don't you need some kind of resistance (e.g. the sender) in series with the gauge in the first place. Otherwise a full voltage signal is sent to the gauge, which pegs it out. I'm assuming here that the resistance varies on these senders, and this varied resistance is indicated on the gauge. Also, would one of the terminals be for a light bulb? I'm attempting to install a gauge and sender in my car (aftermarket cell) and will be watching this thread for help as well.

Weird doesn't even come close! Perhaps a fraternity prank?

Where has the "condenser" gone in this discussion? My understanding of placing the capacitor across the contacts was to absorb this energy somewhat to help eliminate the point's demise. Nearly all "point" type ignition had this attached to the circuit at one time or another (usually on the side of the distributor itself)

I never thought the case itself would handle that much abuse. Sounds nice.

A patch is a great idea!

Ditto what Mike said.

Apocalypse Now!. I didn't think the "longer" version was any better than the shorter one, but this one still rocked.

Wide, humping flairs in the morning is always better than coffee for my morning pick-me-up. Lookin' good (315/35/ZR17 is 25.8" I believe)!

"For all those times you wished you'd spend time for, but never realized till lost". Enjoy these last days.

Check this out. I kept waiting for someone to bring this subject up (AutoWeek news issue). It seems some of the GTO fans don't care for the car either. http://www.autoweek.com/cat_content.mv?content_code=06513698

It looks nearly identical to my 240SX bar that I got from Courtesy Nissan in Dallas. Don't have an address or phone number, but they do have an internet site.

Opinion here supports a WIDE spectrum of upgrades that start with the simple improvement of high quality pads using OEM rotors and calipers, to somewhat "bolt on" 300ZX vented rotors and 280ZX calipers, to rear disc conversions, to some very nice aftermarket parts (rotors and calipers). It just depends on what your goals are and how much money you want to spend. Toyota brake upgrades (swaps) are seen here too. If you could determine what you specifically will be using the car for, and money willing to be spent (or not spent), this could help us provide you with more detail. There is just so much that can be done to help in this area.