blueovalz

I would shoot for an SAE washer (they are usually pretty thick - 1/8" or so), and are grade 8. Slight dressing on the flat sides of a grinder wheel to smooth the washer's sides, perhaps using a die grinder on the ID to make it fit nicely, and you should have a dandy washer.

I have thought about this on the propeller shaft as well. Then use the holes on the top of the differential case (I have a RT differential mount, so in my case I could thread these to hold a caliper mounting bracket) to hold the caliper in place over the very small rotor.

One thing to keep in mind is that a washer placed externally to the bearings will space the companion flange outward, which would provide some relief. This washer would slide over the splined end after all bearings are assembled, and fit in-between the inner bearing and the companion flange. In fact, this method of "pushing" the stub further back into the companion flange would also work for an external washer on the wheel flange end as well. Instead of seating the bearing against the wheel flange, a washer placed between the outer bearing and the wheel flange (and it would require a very carefully fit washer with a proper chamfer) would gain the same net effect of allowing the companion flange to be extended more inboard (or axle more outboard in this case. Obviously, spline engagement and final bearing placement along the stub axle must be checked. This later method is probably one I would avoid though because of what I perceive as increasing the shear loading on the stub axle itself.

I would like to know more about the washers on either side of the spacer. I was under the impression that the spacer was the only thing between the two bearings, hence it's extreme accuracy in spacing the bearings perfectly (aside from the 3 lengths of spacers - A, B, or C). Obviously the diagram shows spacers but I've never seen these, whether it was a 240, 260, or 280.

Jon, Those two links you've posted just about sum up "adjustable rear control arms" spanning ideas to application. Should you folks make it a sticky? I'd like to add that below link as well. It covers a few pitfalls when making this kind of modification. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=114994

I'm not sure about the booster, but you talked about the piston, so I assume this is on the master cylinder? I swapped out the 240sx master cylinder (on my S13) for the slightly larger 300zx master cylinder when I did a brake upgrade. I can't remember the difference, but I think it was only 1/16".

This was one reason I chose the lower torque, higher horsepower build on my motor. It has a pretty broad torque curve and lacks a lot of bottom end grunt. Being only 289 CID, and with 315s in back makes is pretty controllable. It's turned out to be pretty nice in that I don't have to babysit it all the time on hard pulls, but it still kicks out in a corner when I want it too.

Thank god for DavyZ and his "dictionary". I had no idea (age is starting to show).

Advertised widths are between the rim lips. Usually the outside-to-outside dimension of the lips is 1" more (each lip being about 1/2" wide) In general, a 245/45ZR16 is designed to fit a wheel that is 7.5" to 9" wide (advertised width). Depending upon the tire manufacturer, this could go up in a range from 8" to 9.5". Based upon this I would reconsider this size of tire on a 7" rim.

I've already answered this via PM, but for those out there new to wheels and their dimensions (and this is nothing new to most car guys) is the considerations in using backspace and offset in the same context. An advertised wheel width of 10" is the dimension inside the rim lips. The backspacing of a wheel is a dimension for the outside of the rim lips. Thus we are talking about two very different relationships due to the typical lip width of 1/2" per side. Because of this, an advertised 10" wheel with an offset of -1" (-25.4 mm) will have a backspacing of 4.5" rather than 4". I know this may be obvious, but many times I talk to folks about wheels, and they don't consider this when wanting to get that last 1/4" of clearance between the strut and the wheel. So when talking about wheel widths, be sure to consider whether its "advertised", or actual outside-to-outside widths.

Are you putting a later Z MC onto an early Z booster? If so, yes, this will work. In fact, you can put the early ZX MCs onto the Z boosters. The main issue to look at is the lenth of the pushrod going into the MC. You'll need to ensure it is of the correct length to adequately engage the MC piston. There may be a differnce in this, but I am not certain, and if there is you should be able to adjust it out with the adjustable pushrod coming out of the booster.

Mike is sooo correct, and these cantilevered tires actually advertise the smaller rim size to use.

A filter?

Personally, I only deal with the value for backspacing. I convert the offset to backspacing, and go from there. I've seen some wheels with lip differences that make the backspacing dimension more important than the offset, and for me, backspacing is an absolute value without the calculations (and chances for error) needed when using offset (especially when you're looking for that last 3 or 4 mm next to the strut).

I understand, but when you added spring information, the first thing I think about is "he must be asking about spring clearance and not fender clearance". Lock to lock issues will be in using a taller tire at that width as it may rub on the front lip during a turn if the tires are over 25" tall. My 25.6" tires did rub the very front of the lip (S30)in a turn, but no where else.

One option would be the Goodyear or Hoosier cantilevers designed for lateral loads. Most oddball thing I ever saw, but they do work well when you're constrained by wheel width requirements. I tried to find a photo, but the ones I had, had the section width extending at least 1" (if not more) beyond the lip of the wheel. Imagine putting a 9.5" tire on a 7" wheel. The drawing below is very accurate is how the tire looks on the wheel.

There is some ZX info if you look for it (again, the search feature does work). Here is a sample of some of it below:

It took all of about 30 seconds using the seach feature (zx offset) to find the below link. This should help. If not I'd look at some of the other strings as well. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=83445&highlight=stock+zx+offset

CB...I would guess is center bore (the hub hole diameter)? ET... may be offset, but not sure? If it is, that's a lot of offset for the S130 and would require huge spacers. Maybe a part (model) number instead?

There are no splines and any front Z (or ZX) hub as they are all rear wheel drive.

A different string about brakes indicated that the Z31 hub pushes the wheel and brake assembly outward by ~3/4". That said, IF you are using spacers to gain wheel-to-caliper clearance, this hub would not eliminate that spacer. If you are using the spacer to push your wheel outward without regard to any other part, then this hub should allow you to reduced the size of that spacer by this difference, but the spacing of your caliper will no longer line up with the rotor.

I can't speak PHP, vB, nor HTML /UGGG! :icon52:

The 15/16" is a popular size, but that's using it with a booster. I would compare the new piston area and compare it to the OEM piston area. This will provide some clue as to whether a larger master cylinder could be used WITH the booster. Take the booster out of the picture and things will change, specifically the effort required to stop the car. The good thing is that you've now got a larger diameter rotor, which helps in the leverage required. I've no idea how small you could go with the master cylinder, but IF the caliper areas are comparable, and a 7/8" is an OEM size, then my uninformed guess would be that you may need a master cylinder smaller than 7/8" when you remove the booster (I may stand corrected on this). Again, the larger rotor may help you stay with the 7/8" size.

Tallest and widest tire would be more appropriate. If you exceed 25 inches in height, you risk rubbing the front bodywork when turning. If you exceed a section width of 255 mm (with OEM springs), you risk rubbing the strut or bodywork. Coilovers may provide up to 10 mm additional width, but that's iffy. What size wheel these tires go on will make some difference, but not much.

That was ezzzzzzz and I that did that conversion. My guess is that these are a type 2 (bus) or perhaps the bigger type 4 (Porsche 924/944) joints. I looked at these when I made my conversion (below pictures), but decided if I was going to go to all this trouble, then I'd go all the way and put the 930 stuff on for the V8 torque. Anyway, my set-up is heavier than the OEM it replaces, and this auction description claims their set-up is lighter. Anyway, it looks like a descent kit from what I can see. If I was to purchase these, I'd look into moving the differential 1" toward the driver's side, and consequently see what it would take to have the driver's side axle shortened 1", and the passenger side lengthened 1". This completely eliminated the remaining vibration I had (but I had everything solidly mounted). From the appearance of the auction photos, I'd say it might be possible by simply cutting new C-clip grooves on the long splined portions of the axles. This part may be long enough to allow some customizing.